Supfire L5-S, dual switch, 1 x 26650

Ugh! I’m trying really hard to get this thing apart.

I’m guessing it’s glued.

Reflector out was no problem for me, unscrewed easily. My problems are stated above.

One of yours was super tight and other not so tight?

The rear button certainly seems as if it was has hastily added. It doesn’t appear to be water tight at all. The metal cap over the rubber boot also flops around some.

I’ve only touched one of them so far. Haven’t gotten around to trying to open the other.

That’s right, it was the internal pill that is so tight on yours. My bad.

Crap! My bezel unscrewed by pressing the front against a piece of rubber inner tube.

I was able to line up 3 bungee cords and put a small block of wood on top. I pressed with all my body weight and it still slipped. I then added a bit of water to the rubber and wiped it to make it as tacky as possible and it just barely broke loose. Wow! I finally got it. :partying_face:

No glue, but super tight and with little to no edge to grip makes it tough.

I was able to straighten out the ring shape. I’ll just need to do a little touching up on it.

Thanks for the suggestion.

I guess my light got tightened up by some jacked up dude.

They now have the product listing for the L5-S up. link

Despite everything being super tight on it, it’s a really nice looking light.

I fixed the metal tail cap button from flopping around by adding a piece of thin cardboard between it an the rubber switch cover under it. So now it feels halfway decent. After looking at the design closer, it may be waterproof.

I really like the side switch. It’s a kind of a white/translucent hard plastic. The button pressure is not real high like my DQG Tiny 7x xpg2, so it’s nice to press.

Now I just need to wait for my 30mm Texas Avenger FET driver to arrive and I can trim it down to 26mm to fit. Wire up some nice power on leds to the switch, put the 26350 batteries in and then the xhp70. I’ll figure out how to get a copper block in there to add some mass while I’m waiting.

Hey, my project is done. Mostly done.

I’ve got the TA driver with Narsil M, xhp70, 26350 cells and a blue and violet lighted side switch. It’s basically a mini version of my L6.

It pulls about 7.8 amps which I’m thinking should be good for maybe 4,000 lumen. The switch lights up when the tail switch is on.

I’m using the stock threaded pill which has little to no mass. I need to add some copper to it to bulk it up. It’s for this reason I used 22ga wire to the emitter and did not bypass the tail spring.

I’m also using the stock reflector which has a big dark spot in the hotspot. I mean it’s a real noticable hole. Very ugly. So I need to swap to a different reflector, maybe a textured one or maybe add some DC Fix to smooth it out.

Other than those 2 things, it’s great. I’ll post all my pictures of the build in a seperate thread and put a link here if you guys wanna check it out.

Very nice! When you turn on the tail switch does the light turn on or do the double flash and shut off? I love the switch lights that indicate power is on:)

I told Lexel to program it to do nothing. So when I turn on the tail switch only the side button lights up to tell me the power is on.

This is nicer than my L6 which is programmed to go turbo when the rear switch is on. I thought that was a good idea for the L6, but after a while it’s annoying.

Ok. Good to know. I’ll have to reconsider my plans for a tactical tail switch. Still undecided though.

Were you thinking of the tactical tail switch option for a supfire build? If so, keep in mind that this supfire uses a reverse clicky tail switch. The L6 uses a forward clicky switch which makes the tactical option a bit more practical.

What blue and violet side switch is that? Got a link?

And how is it connected to the driver? Is an output pin on the MCU enough to light it up, or are there additional dedicated components on the driver?

It’s the stock Supfire switch. It comes with a red and blue led to indicate charging status. Unfortunately the switch is wired so the 2 led and the switch share a common positive. This is backwards for what I need. I need seperate positives and a common ground.

Basically I decided to swap positive to negative to give me a common ground wire.

The switch is not polarity sensitive, but the leds are. I wanted to use the stock leds, but I had to remove them and turn them 180°. I destroyed the red one, but was able to save the blue. Then I added my own violet/pink led. I tied the 2 positive led wires together and ran them through an external 20k ohm resistor and then attached that to the power indicator pad on the driver. I’ve found that smd resistors mounted vertically are very fragile and always want to break in two.

Then I had to carefully run the common negative wire for all 3 pieces to the switch negative pad. Then the switch positive wire to the switch positive pad.

It all works! When power is applied to the driver the switch lights come on and stay on until the rear switch is turned off.

I could have used the indicator power pad, but then it gets complicated as you can program the indicator light to be on or off, etc… I wanted it simple and to always be on when thd rear switch is on. I have pictures and diagrams showing all this so you can duplicate it.

I also filed some flat sides into the switch pcb so I could wire it to the driver outside the light, then slip the switch back through the mounting hole. No way you want to solder and unsolder 4 tiny wires everytime you want to pull the driver out.

Since you guys seem so interested, I’ll try and load my pics up soon and write up my build like I did with my L6.

Thanks for the explanation. I’m very interested in diagrams and photos. I have two of these waiting for driver replacements. Right now they are just collecting dust together with all the other lights waiting in line (at least they are not alone).

Okay, the build thread is up.