I have an S70S coming today, so I could measure it maybe this evening.
With a precise DMM that goes to 1000's of a volt and doing a 24 hr test, that may help to tell you. Might be a specific issue with your light. Got a USPS notice the S70S was delivered home, but picking up a new car later (lease), then heading home.
That is a big drop. No way it should drop that much in 24 hours. That’s like fully charged 4.2 volts to mostly drained 3.5 volts in a week. No way they would design it with that much drain.
If the LED switch light has a 135 µA (0.135 milliamp) drain and you use 5,000 mah batteries it should take 4 years to fully drain them.
I have a TA FET driver in my L6 using an LDO and it only has a 0.08 milliamp drain. So combine that with the switch light and your still at 4 years to fully drain the batteries.
Now I assume Thorfire built their driver with parasitic drain in mind so as not to have a bunch of unhappy customers. I assume.
We shall have to wait and see someone’s S70-S drain numbers.
You don’t say!
I just measured the parasitic drain of the S70S just received today, and it's 4.37 mA on two EFEST 4200 IMR's @4.10V.
That's pretty darn high. Even if the LED took 500 uA, the draw should be 600 uA or so at worse. With this high of a draw, something is wrong with my driver or the driver was not designed with low parasitic drain in mind.
I guess I gave Thorfire too much credit.
I’m running 2 leds and I set them up to be bright and that’s only 0.4 milliamp. Thorfire’s single led is probably under 0.2 milliamp so the driver itself is about 4.0 milliamps.
The Q8 driver has a 0.02 mA draw with switch led turned off and a 0.135 mA draw with it turned on. That’s very good.
I guess Thorfire expect their customers to always turn it off with the tail switch?
I’ve got a FX30 with a 1.4 mA draw and a TA FET with LDO and that has a 0.08 mA draw.
I’m not too familiar with zener diodes on these 6 volt lights, but everyone says they have too much drain and an LDO is the best choice.
Is it possible the S70-S has a zener diode on it?
Does the side switch have a light?
Yes, the single switch led should draw under 0.2 mA so the driver is drawing the other 4 mA.
The older S70 also had a switch light, but it didn’t have a standby mode so parasitic drain was not an issue.
A rough calculation using 5,000 mah batteries shows a complete discharge in just 47 days.
If the driver doesn’t have a proper bleeder resistor it could be playing with the switch and current draw.
I wonder if the new S70 has the same driver as the old S70 or a new driver? The old S70 i have has a tail switch.
I am now locking out all my electronic switch lights the drain on some are bad.
Are you talking about a bleeder resistor for the switch led? I’m sure it does just to not burn it up. Still, 2 bright leds only pull 0.4 mA. So the single, not so bright, led in the S70-S can’t be more than 0.2 or 0.3 mA. The big 4.0 mA draw has to come from the driver.
Or do you mean a bleeder resistor that is part of the driver circuit? I’m not familiar enough with driver dedigns to comment on that.
It’s not that big a deal if you turn the tail switch off when your done using it or you recharge the batteries every week or 2 already.
Oh yeah, the new model is the S70-S. The older one is just the S70.
I know the new driver is slightly small in diameter and the sense resistors are a larger smd size. The firmware is definitely different. I don’t remember too much else about the 2 drivers.
Both models have tail switches and side switches.
The driver its self should have a resistor for the LED in the side switch. Some thing has to limit the current to the LED in the switch.
Can some one take a pic of the driver?
Yea just click the tail switch of if it has one. Problem solved but you lose the “beacon mode” on the side switch which some people might want.
Here’s the old one. It’s 29mm.
Here’s the new one. It’s 27mm.
Edit: I just bought a S70S in Oct 2018 and it’s driver is 29mm.
Still possible to order TA drivers from me
30mm will fit sanded down
Yeah, that would turn the S70-S into a beast. With only 0.08 mA drain from the driver as well. Maybe 0.2 mA total for driver and single LED side switch.
The $37 light, plus $25 driver, turns it into a $62 light. That’s the price of an L6, but Narsil and the increased output make it worth it. It’s still a bargain.
Don't think you can use the indicator LED though, not with 3 channels, an e-switch, and voltage divider resistors for 2S -- that's all 5 I/O pins used.
Unless someone can help with the firmware coding, I won't have time for looking into pin sharing for quite some time. I'm struggling for time as it is.
I’m assuming you mean the indicator LED on the TA drivers?
I dont think that’s a big deal. I used narsil v1.2 and just made the switch light up when power from the rear switch is on.
I can’t remember if the S70-S used the light on the switch for an actual function. Maybe it changes color when the battery voltage went down?
Narsil has the battery check which blinks out the voltage which is more precise than a color changing switch.
Anyone interested in the TA driver should read Lexels thread to learn all the pros and cons. Or ask me as I know most of them.
Hey guys I’m still very new here. Sorry if this has already been answered but I’m wanting to know if it’s ok to leave the S70S in standby mode just overnight?
I like the glowy side switch and it would come in handy when I wake up in the middle of the night to use the potty or just get up to check inn something.
Don’t want to ruin my light or cells.
Thanks,
Mike
There are much better lights for a night stand light that have a glowing button and a very low moon mode.
With the S70s it takes maybe 2 months to run down the batteries in standby, so overnight should not be a problem.