Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

Double springs to bypass is less of a bump than from single springs, but still should be something. Yes, a UCL or UCLp would be closer to 5%, possibly a little more. I don't think the FET to a SIR404DP or a possibly better Infineon will make much difference, but they will run cooler I would think.

I plan on replacing the 18 AWG wires with the better 18 AWG (200C) rated wires, then cut them and solder/shrink tube to 16 AWG wires. Should be a little bump.

After many disappointments with various so called AR lens, the only one I've tried that I consistently get a bump from is UCL or UCLp. The 3 mm thickness of the stock lens is a problem though. Replacing it with a 2 mm probably means you have to account for that 1 mm space created some how. Wayy back I suggested 2 mm for compatability with the UCL or UCLp. However now, Chris's thickness specs of UCLp's has changed. There's some variation but you can get something closer to 3 mm last I checked.

I’m not that technical when it comes to flashlights, so this may be a stupid question, but if a spring bypass would give more lumens, why isn’t that part of the design? Not everyone knows how to do that themselves.
Incidentally, I’ve just bought these, a hard to beat deal on 4 30Q button tops at Fasttech £16.15 including shipping to the UK. Thanks Erethryn.

One reason is I doubt you would see a difference with a spring bypass. You would only measure a bit higher.
Another reason is that it would probably have to be done by hand and that adds to assembly time which adds to cost.

Double springs were chosen over bypass wires for the above reasons. Performance should be very close. It’s definitely better than just single springs.

The only way I see to significantly improve the Q8 as it comes from the factory would be either swapping LED’s or swapping to a 4S setup.

XP-L2’s will net you some gains.

Swapping to a 4S setup with the stock LED’s (with individual mcpcb’s sadly) would net you some gains. Or swap to xhp35’s with the 4S cell setup.

4x xhp35’s should get you 8k+ lumens if I had to guess and should work perfect with a FET setup. Plus better throw since you could get a HI version.

With an HD xhp35 it should in theory be possible to just crack 10k lumens.

I would also like one.

Tracerfire, I’m not going to get this 100% accurate, but I’ll get close…

In industry it’s a given that 90% of issues can be addressed relatively imexpensively, the other 10% are solved much more expensively. This light achieves over 90% IMO, and does it inexpensively. But that was achieved by the volunteers on the team keeping costs down (in more than one way). When it involves anything but volunteer labor from the team that becomes purchased labor and costs go up. Some things can be done relatively inexpensively, and other things drive up the cost. The goal was an excellent light for $40 shipped. I know you weren’t knocking the light or anything else, but when one figures out what this light is and that it was accomplished for $40 shipped, that’s just amazing!

Tom, in looking at the coated lenses I saw the difference in thickness also and was going to ask about potential problems. Thanks for beating me to it! I think I’ll just live with the stock lens. Frankly, I’m not planning on doing anything to the light at all.

MrsDNF, OK, don’t go swimming with it, but it would be OK in the rain like any other quality LED light? I just want to make it clear for my pea brain. I think that’s what I got from your statement regarding sealing. (About the water, not my pea brain :smiley: )

TIA

Yes the goal was a good SRK like light with nice LEDs, BLF software, square threads connecting tube and head so it can be used for a long time.
Then the 4000 lumens were specified
And we have reached these goal and beyond.
A big copper DTP ledboard was a mere dream, lighted switch was ditched from specs to save costs yet TF did it, double springs, tripod hole…

This switch is neat, the rubber translucent part is both to press on but it is shaped in such a way the ring holding it presses on a part below it so it acts as waterproofing as well, yorlur typical SRK switch has a loose metal button and is much less capable of resisting water.

Good news, roof is fixed, needed to replace 2 tiles, saw a cracked one a couple of meters away so in the end replaced 7 tiles and it should be good now. Since I was up there and had some shards I could also clean the top of the chimney pipe and concrete slab that acts as roof for it. So got rid of a lot of creosote, nice!

For cost and weight reasons, I plan to use either one or two of my existing 4.35V LG cells, instead of buying another 4 new cells. I hope the max brightness doesn’t suffer too much.

I just built a small light with a large emitter that required opening the emitter hole in the existing reflector so the reflector could sit all the way down onto the substrate. This effectively lowered the reflector approx 1mm. I solved this by removing the wire from a 20ga Turnigy wire leaving the empty silicone sleeve and then using this like an o-ring between the lens and bezel to, in effect, act like a spring to push the reflector down and keep the lens from rattling. Water sealing is from an o-ring on top of the reflector, between it and the lens, so this Turnigy sleeve is there only to make up the difference.

Easy to do, effective, and inexpensive.

I have some idea’s about boosting output on this light that I will implement and see what shakes once the light arrives. :wink:

Yep, I’m also on the list for one.
Just nitpicking little stuff, which I trust comes to the attention of whoever’s doing QA/QC at the supplier.

For any good quality hardware host, I trust I’ll be replacing LEDs every year or two for many years to come.

Hank, just curious… why would you want to replace LEDs every few years?

When are they supposed to come and how do we pay for it? (maybe I should have asked for 2 instead of just one)

Blinker you can up your order to as many as you want. Eventually no one will be able to do that at the $40 price, but they’ll be available at full retail. But that time isn’t now.

When the time comes you’ll be sent an e-mail with instructions telling you how to order. There’s more to it than that, but it’ll all be made plain when the time comes.

Thanks Brian.

Yes Brian explains it well
A link and code will be in the PM people on the list receive
We don’t know what price will be after the groupbuy, we don’t know how many runs will be made (I hope a lot) but I do know the first mass production run is going to be based on the amount spoken for on the list
There is no limited amount people can ask for now, there will be a system of several codes with limited use later which combined with trust that people order the amount they asked for should make it all work fine.

My first reaction was to say that you can just ask to be placed on the list again but it is all good, if people want more then they order initially the chance of TF seeing there is a demand thus making more gets bigger :slight_smile:

What is the PM?

Personal Message, like email but within the forum. :wink:

The Miller has all of us that have expressed an interest in buying one or more of these lights divided up in groups. He will send a link to make the purchase (as well as the coupon code to lock in the price) to groups of us at a time, in order to make it more efficient to “email” 1300+ people. When the lights are ready, we will be notified, and it will be up to us to only buy the one or two or whatever we spoke up for.

Yeah and when you receive a Personal Message on BLF you get an email telling you so.

Not everyone has that option enabled Miller, so sometimes folks here do not get that email.

So, make sure you have email enabled to notify you of messages. :wink:

Edit: On the left, click My Account, then Edit, then scroll down to the botton to Privacy, check the box for enable notification of messages. :wink:

@The Miller: please add me for a second one - first is #55.
Thanks.