There is a basic problem of accommodating all lengths of cells with a spring on only one side. If we get into longer or stiffer springs, I hope the long protected cells won't suffer. I found some struggle getting the body to thread with protected cells in there now.
Of course mine will get bypasses:
no high amps going through the springs (no heat to deform them)
don't have to worry about getting good spring compression to reduce resistance
I can't see how an upside down battery would make contact to the brass ring, so using the springs as fuses, I just don't see. Even if it was forced (solder blob on the Batt- end?), the traces on the tail PCB make good fuses - I've seen this before in Shocker battery carriers.
If we do want to improve on the springs, two issues:
stronger, stiffer steel (tighter fitting short cells, can handle the heat better)
increase conductive coating thickness (handles high amps better, probably less heat generated)
I do think (agree to what was said) the inner springs are too short. They should come right up to the top of the outer spring. This would probably help as well.
Would it not be easier or simpler just to change the length of the inner spring, to make or keep contact with the outer spring, the little bend on the outer spring would act as a keeper, to contain the inner longer spring. Sorry if this has been already suggested.
As I understand, the spring steel is not conductive - it's the coating on the steel that conducts. I've smoked springs before, and the coating is what burns off and the remaining spring steel doesn't conduct well at all. I've even taken off the coating with a soldering iron - same thing, where the coating is off and get no conductance.
That’s the definition of a sunk cost. People have great difficulty letting go of those, but it’s important not to let them tie you down to sticking with a bad decision.
That’s true. But, in this case, I happen to think shortening the tube is a better decision in almost every way, and the “sunk cost” NOT becoming an issue is just one of the many reasons. :innocent:
This flashlight is already perfect. I can mod my flahslight and bypass the springs. Can I have it now in this form? I need it now. How about a presale groupbuy for those like me who dont want to wait another month or two (or 3 or 4 or 5) till it is perfect?
This should not take very long
If my measuring is correct 2,5 mm longer small springs should connect having both springs take current and temp.
Or another solution with the springs for that does not require design changes on main parts.
Maybe n my old SRK, two of the springs were shorter right from the factory. It was easy to work around by putting a magnet on the bottom of those two cells. Maybe short cells should have a similar spacer when used in this light?
Because one of my proto3 springs was toast anyway, I decided to replace them all. The only springs that I had that were the right size and nice stiff were my phosfor-bronze ’djozz’springs, so they went in:
This is how it looks now (VTC6 batteries, same length as 30Q’s) :
The batteries sticking out over the (shortened by a few mm!) tube so the springs are compressed well, and enough travel that long cells fit too.
Because phosfor bronze has one-third the resistance of steel, the out put went up too (not neccessarily what I desired), on VTC6 batteries 6130 lumen now (30 seconds). My 30Q’s are in the charger now, numbers with them later.
