DIY Driver swap Guide [ P60 as an example ]

Ok I get how to use the mm forgetting but still confused how to use the aa thingt lol
Is it much more brighter than stock?

AA is used to test = To see if its working .. 3v is just enough to cycle through the modes and make sure the pill is working as it should ..

You test to make sure everything is fine , as you go , makes life easier if you can catch mistakes early . Also 3v is much safer as its far less likely to do damage if something is wired or soldered incorrectly , you can oops and laugh about it latter .. [ + wont pull 10A ]

Use a 4.2v 18650 and you may get the magic smoke as your reward ... [ You fried something ]

New driver Brighter ? I dont think so , more efficient , user friendly , better .. + Folks wanted a guide on doing a driver swap , and I wanted to see what this driver does ...

So a few birds taken out with one stone ...

So on the pill would u gator clip the red to the spring and touch what with the black to make it come on,sry for all th .s lol just wanna get it right

Red to + , which is the centre spring ...

Neg is the pill body ...

Before soldering the driver in place .. Just put the red to centre spring , and neg to the outer edge of driver

Important Update :

Seems the driver actually behaves a little different [ its dark out so went and played a little ]

What ever mode you stop at : When you go to change mode it starts on Low ...

So if you stop on low , and go to change modes , its starts or goes to low , and then you continue to change modes till you get what you want ...

What ever you stop on [ even low ] when you go to change modes , it goes to low ...

So it looks like it will always start from low [ stock ]

Thank you for taking the time and trouble to write this article. It's a little advanced for me as yet, but the pictures really help. Better than a lot of text books.

I highly recommend a solder sucker or solder removal wick for when you are removing the original driver. Either of these can be purchased cheaply from DX. Having these tools will really help if you are going to be doing a lot of soldering.

Do you have a link?

Old4570,

Thank you so much for posting this, I haven't done anything like this with flashlights yet but have been thinking about getting into it, this helps greatly and it seems straightforward.

Is there any chance you, or someone else could post or link me to a similar tutorial for swapping an emitter???

Thanks again, I have bookmarked this.

Thanks for the write up.

I feel like I should take something apart at least to look at it..............

The next part I have to figure out is what to buy for a replacement.

Ummm... how about:

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/aluminum-alloy-desoldering-pump-33011

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/goot-wick-soldering-remover-1-5mm-x-1-5m-6252

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/goot-desoldering-wick-remover-2-5mm-x-1-5m-6211

The solder removing wick can be purchased in multiple sizes...

I think you would just figure out what you want out of the light, I.E. modes, current, etc and find a driver to suit your requirements.

Are most all drivers the same size or is that another thing you have to look at when purchasing one?

Bookmarked, thanks!

Flux is also useful both for soldering and desoldering.

You should be able to pick up the solder removal wick at Radio Shack or any local electronics shop

You would want to make sure that the driver you need is the right diameter. 17mm is a very common size and is the sized used in the P60 dropins, but some drivers are larger and some are smaller.

Have you tried these. I managed to reduce one to one mode. I am not too good with soldering small pieces.

http://www.intl-outdoor.com/amc71354-5mode-circuit-board-nanjg-101aka1-p-254.html

If I’m not mistaken the one used here can be made to do a few different modes ie 6 ways ,now how yobdo that I’m not sure ?
When my drivers arrive I will post pics here as well if u don’t mind old?

Another way to remove the old driver is to cut away the solder blob with a sharp hobby knife (mind your thumb) and also cutting vertical along the edge of the driver. This is normally sufficient for prying the driver out at its edge with the knife (again mind the fingers).

I have found that this can snap the blades on hobby knives, so now I have an old small, precision flat blade screwdriver that I use to pry out drivers.