BLF style 18650 1s thrower( poor mans Olight M2X)

How do you stripped the anodiziation off ? With acid?

Robert

What pill you used ?

This is my luxometro, I do not think that variable is as large as 220000cd to 300000 cd, it is obvious that there are differences, but I do not think they are 25% to 30%, I am new to this, I am learning, a big greeting for everyone !!

I`ve used the same pill, but it is a bit to small for this light, so I`ve done a few solder blobs around the threads and now it`s a tight fit and new threads are cutted it selfs. I think in his case, the reflector gives enough pressure down to the pill, so it isn`t hanging loose around.

Robert

I use drano professional strength crystals stripped the anodiziation off.
I got the pill from fasttech it doesn’t fit I have to glued.

Old USA copper 1c, sanded flat:

Epoxied into the pill, and together sanded down flush, wire holes drilled from back at 45 degrees outwards:

Side view together with MCPCB, pill ledge ended up about 2/3 sanded away:

Used these centering washers, but sanded very thin. Fit is not tight in the reflector and centering is touchy:

U6-3A XPL-HI. DD+1 driver, ~1200 lumen. Measures only 144 kcd, but nice profile:

Pill originally had a rubber o-ring, preventing it from screwing down all the way. Now with the pill properly screwed down the cell tube will need to be shortened, it can only screw in up to its o-ring.

Someone should try the funnel shaped XP centering ring that Simon had made for his C8’s. They work really well. So well that Eagle Eye is now including a clone as an optional centering ring in their host X6’s. :wink:

Eagle Eye are using their own XP centerig ring: i was speaking about it initialy
Its thin, easy to sand and works quite well with that reflector
Their XML centering rings works great too, its just it needs aditional glueing to the mcpcb in order to be fixed( for XP)

The seller shipping time is worst possible though….got several of those hosts on a wait status already 2+ months

It sensor is more directly connected to motherboard (no long stretchy cables).
Could long and stretchy cables have any influence on lux meter performance? If they could have this is some kind of direct connection…
I think it could be winner same as his clamp meter brother most of us use now for current draw measurement.
Looking forward for your comparison with super duper light meter :wink:

Guys very nice mods indeed…

Here is mine… Prepared for 26mm mcpcb(I did not want to polish cause I think this will be better for artic alumina thermal gluing I am planing:

Sweet and clean! Nice work DEL! :+1:

Amazing Old School BLF type work guy’s! :beer:

There is a way after all…

I have build the pill for 26mm mcpcb and drilled the hole in reflector as I promised to you guys…

Than something came on my mind… 16mm mcbcb is doable! :slight_smile: You can look:

It is good old XP-G2 S4 2B inside. Diy FET driver. Current draw only 4.3A. My old lux meter(new uni-t is still on a way) says 280kcd (but it probably under reads for 20% which I can’t now for sure)

Pics taken with generic phone camera and beam picture is on low mode at white wall 2,2meters ceiling.

Now after that(in day or two) I will assemble one with 26mm mcpcb g2s42b pill I already done and compare:

Nice work there li , that’s what i plan to do in my next one , probably with a 10mm board .

If there will not be significant difference with 26mm mcpcb I would recommend 16mm mcpcb to anyone.
It is easy!
You just need to drill hole in reflector(and I stacked additional 16mm noctigon beneath upper one for better heat transfer, and because of that nasty middle donat hole in pill)
I used this tool and hand aku drill:

Nice work on the reflector luminarium iaculator and looking forward to the comparison between the two different mods.

I assembled 26mm one today. Tried to center it with direct contact to mcpcb(reflector base touched mcpcb so emitter was at it highest point, even slightly above that bottom reflector ring since I sanded it thin) and while the beam was ok I was getting bad results…
Then I started slightly with raising reflector above mcpcb and there it was…

But only 260kcd on my old/bad lux meter. Tint and beam profile are more or less the same.

16mm mcpcb reflector drill mod seems to have slightly clearer and warmer beam, and of course slightly better performance.

I am probably using bit different centering method than you guys but when doing 26mm one just thin centering ring around the led should do the trick… Or if you do eye centering method like myself about 4-5 layers of kapton tape on bottom base of reflector should do the trick.

That worries me cause I already have 3x additional xpg2s42b reflowed 26mm mcpcb’s for other lights.
And because of all possible variables(reflector, emitter, centering) I am not sure that mentioned bottom circle in reflector is guilty for such results…

And only solution which can tell the truth is to drill through new reflector again and to see if there will be any lux difference.
I yet have to make decision for this.

are you using new or old xpg2 s4?

Good old one as I mentioned in earlier posts. They are harvested from meteor flashlight.

Edit fast pic comparison on low mode:
left is 260 kcd 26mm pill mod righ is 280 kcd 16mm pill mod (and it seems camera caught pwm)

I found about the same with the XPL-HI above. One layer of kapton was slightly worse than a ~0.3 mm sanded gasket. (No work done on the reflector.)

I received a second light this week. This one had a black (off-center glued) MCPB with a black 19 mm insulating cup on top of the black centering gasket. Also an Omten switch. 1st one had a white MCPCB, same black centering gasket, but no cup and a Kan-28 switch with ill-fitting rubber boot.

The battery tube on both lights do not thread into the head all the way. Anyone try to shorten the threads on the tube?

I like the 16mm solution with the reflector base removed. :+1: