I see Flintrock hasn't been on for 3 weeks. Dang, I really want to read up more on this version - sounds like a bunch of nice features. I've been flip flopping around on clicky switch driver - Bistro, my own, Biscotti, etc., so was hoping to standardize on this one.
Yeah, his last post Here seems to indicate he’s got stuff going on (Don’t know if good or bad stuff). It would be great if he’d finish this. It really is (or can be) a nice upgrade.
I could maybe help here. Dunno enough yet about building them. Do standard TA boards work? Dunno bout that C2 cap - if it fits on standard C2 pads. Dunno bout the diode either - if that's just a standard diode or not.
So you tried three identical 1S boards with the issues as listed above? Weird bout the LDO - never used a diode with one. The LDO replaces the diode on all our other e-switch drivers. Sure you got the correct LDO part? I got burned before by having the wrong type of LDO.
Those R1 and R2 values sure are strange... But I see now - should work fine.
Now I tried to compile a hex with a custom modegroup
But when I flash it its totally messed up, the driver has only 3 modes, does not accept long clicks
when entering config it bliks 6 times then buzz and thats it
P.S. I did a new project in Amtel studio and now it seems to work
also I am puzzled how to change the LVP to another value the fr-calibration.h has still the stuff from Bistro using 19.1/4.7k resistors to define voltage
also still searching where to adjust moonmode to get it a bit brighter, now its more a firefly mode
@KFulton: nice to hear you have some drivers working!
When I saw that flintrock had been absent I was bummed a bit as I purchased parts with tight tolerances and the parts were not cheap. So, I hope you can share with us some more? What has been your experience? Learn anything that may be helpful?
@Flintrock: please come back. You’ve done some great work. Your intelligence causes you to have some conversations with yourself sometime but it is still nice to listen in and it documents some priceless information:) hope all is well
There are cheaper/better options for C2, but I don’t know what is the best option there.
2. Moonlight is crazy low, more like a firefly/sub-lumen mode. I changed my modegroups around to use ramp level 2 instead of moonlight.
3. The tantalum capacitor is polarized. I posted a picture of the working orientation in a previous post.
4. No bleeder resistor is needed for lighted tailcap builds (at least on 17mm 1S). All of my Convoy S2/S2+/S3 builds have them.
5. There is some occasional odd behavior with short presses. If you haven’t turned the light on in a while, and immediately tap forward rapidly a few times, some of the forward taps will behave as medium-presses. This clears up within a few seconds and won’t come back again for a long time (several days? Need more time to figure this one out).
6. I managed to destroy a bunch of 7135s by soldering them by hand with an iron. I discovered this when doing tail measurements with a multimeter. Apparently the little things can’t handle an iron at 650F. I replaced all of them with fresh 7135s and reflowed them using solder paste and hot air, and everything was fine after that.
7. Since I was doing a bunch of projects at the same time, I used the electric skillet method for the side with the tiny components. Works great! I usually use hot air for SMD, though, especially after the 7135 incident.
8. Convoy S2 and S2+ pills do not work very well with 17mm TAv1 drivers. You need to either file the retaining ring way down or solder the drivers in place. I tried to solder one to a S2 pill and the heavier components on the other side of the board fell off. I have read that some people have had success with using a blowtorch to pre-heat the pill, but I haven’t tried that. The Convoy S3 has a wider retaining ring and works without any fuss.
Why would you want to buy them separately? They don’t fit in anything else that I know of, and unless you lose one, any S3 host or complete light you buy should already have one.
Well yes, if they don’t fit anything else there is then no need. I was assuming that they would fit the other convoy s-series lights but i guess they do not.