a new EDC light of 2017- JAXMAN E2L

I think the LD-3 driver is great in a build like the Jaxman M2 very easy to adjust the current and the UI is great. Besides I can’t build my own drivers soldering wires is right around my skill-set :slight_smile:

Agreed.
And i think the Vf of those XP-G2s @ 1 Amperes each is not too low either and probably quite efficient too at that low current.

Yeah, i’m looking forward to that, just hoping they will re-stock the light grey hosts…

I just bought two of these from mtnelectronics.com. They seem like an interesting light. Seems much better than my modified SK98 XM-L2 U41C Qlight 3.04 amp lights. More effecient light output and runtime. The quality looks pretty good too. Hopefully this will not disappoint.

I see warm white 4000K option available on Jaxman Aliexpress store, will natural white 5700K be available soon?

I just bought two of these in the XP-G2 neutral white variant, (3C) and I find the tint is too yellow. I’m torn as to weather I should send it back and swap them for cool white 1C versions. I tried comparing the 3C tint (5500k) to my MT-GT Q0 (5000K) and well the MT-G2 looked better and allot less yellow vs the XP-G2 3C @5500K. I mean if anything the XP-G2 should have been more white then yellow… Now comparing my modded SK98 with a XM-L2 U4 1C, I’m liking the cooler look of the 1C.

Sure it’s not just mislabelled/misbinned?

I’ve got a 4300K-4500K XP-E2 in a C8 that’s quite a nice color, warmish but not overly so. In fact, its hotspot is about my favorite CT/tint just short of a 219B.

My S2+ with a 4C (should be the same exact CT, more or less) XM-L is decidedly yellower, more like in the 5s than 4s.

The spill of the S2+ is way more blue, though. So if you do a ceiling-bounce, the S2+ has a beautiful color overall (after all the color-mixing), but the hotspot is definitely an egg-yolk color.

I think that’s one thing that’s often overlooked. We tend to look at only the hotspot to judge the CT/tint, when the whole integrated spread from the LED is what’s being binned.

The best I can explain to you is the yellow coming from the variant I have, is the color of the sun rising/setting. I was looking more for the color of the sun at mid day, no clouds and clear. White colors seem more yellow than actual white. I’ll see if I can post some photos.

Sounds like my S2+ (ostensibly 4C)…

I don’t think I know how to post images correctly to see the difference. I’ll post them but they dont seem to represent what I’m actually seeing. . . The image to the left is the XP-G2 3C S4, and the image to the right is a light with a XP-G3 3C S5. (A custom modded Sk68) (Ill edit this as I go as I’m new to posting like this) The 3C XP-G3 S5 seems to pronounce the whites more than the dingy yellowish XP-G2 3C. Once again I’m not sure you can see it.

Here is a comparison of the MT-G2 Q0, (5000K tint) (Left) Imgur: The magic of the Internet to the Jaxman XP-G2 3C S4 (Right)

I hate being a noob trying to post pics lol.

Is it possible I have the wrong bin on the Jaxman light? I was thinking it should be more on the white side @ 5500K than on the lower dingy yellow side.

Unno, the first one looked nice, the second one kinda blue.

Need to find a white wall and maybe shine both side-by-side (hotspot+spill). The camera can white-balance itself between individual shots…

The MT-G2 looks brighter, so color differences in the pic will shrink.

I think I’m going to go for the 1A tints. It’s most likely going to deliver the truer whites I’m looking for. I suppose warmer yellow tints aren’t to my liking. I guess not all 3C tints are exactly the same?

Unno. If these are all TIRs in the E2L, they should do a much better job mixing colors than a reflector would. Maybe you lost the tint-lottery, no idea.

First time I got my 4C tint in an S2+, it took me a while to get used to it, but I kinda grew to like it. Still, the “4300K-4500K” E2 in a C8 is about my favorite tint, short of a Nichia.

Now? Don’t think I’d touch a CW light unless it were with the intention of doing an emitter-swap. Just looks “blue” to me…

Update I was able to swap the two 5000K Neutral White 3C E2L models for the 1A 6500K Cool Whites and I am totally loving it! Cool White is definitely for me! Love the E2L! To my eyes it’s a perfect white. The colors look great and I do not notice any blue tint at all! Goodbye SK98, hello E2L!

Feedback to Jaxman

I bought two of these from mtnelectronics.com. I love the size, and the output. They do better than my custom SK98’s and I’ve spent nearly double the price of the E2L in mods. This is my first Jaxman product I’ve owned. Thank you Jaxman for this incredible, high quality, impressive little light! I love the 1A 6500K version. I don’t even notice or see any blue tint, and the white is so pure. I love it!

My light-grey E2L 18500 tubes arrived today. Guess I’ll see tonight if the color matches better than the dark grey! :stuck_out_tongue:

It will FL2, he doesn’t screw up on his ano, I’m assuming your using this 500 tube with the original E2L light grey ano, if so no issues at all… it will be a perfect match.

The percentage isn’t about the size of your photo T18, it’s about the size of the viewer’s screen. So if I’m looking at it on a 24” monitor vs someone looking at it on their phone, it still fits. :wink:

So, my monitor does 1920 x 1080, anything larger than that and it’s a larger picture than my screen, like a 2356 width would overlap and I couldn’t see the entire image without scrolling. If you use 100% then the image automatically fits my window that I have open on my screen. And if I go to a laptop that has a 1440 width, it’s still gonna show according to my screen, likewise my wife’s smart phone would still have the image fully viewed on this page.

If you want the image to not take up the entire width of this page from BLF, use something like 50% or 30%, that will keep the image proportionately small no matter what device it’s being viewed on.

At the same time, you can include a full sized 5616 x 3648 image when you post it here, but the 100% option will make it fit the screen. Then if you also post the full size Image in the bottom row in that posting window, you can right click on an image and view it in a new window, then you’ll be able to view it actual size in the new window for a close-up view. :wink:

Ah, Yes precisely thank you Dale, got it straight from the master, but wondering if the fella will return to read that info… ha ha
Thanks Dale

Edit: I think it was info from you when talking about photography one time that I may have got the idea that saving and cropping all my pics into 1024x768 was a good middle of the road for posting here, is that correct Dale
Edit 2: Wow, had to re-read that a couple times, not that it’s complicated but I didn’t know all that, that is very interesting stuff, so double thanks and I cut and posted it in my Book of Dale Info… seriously a complete PDF size Book with links to your posted project last entry a Ti X6 mod you name it, valuable stuff as I see it, there’s others as well Tom E, KB1428, The Masters…

Emailed Rey by the way about that maybe extra pill, your light is haunting me… :stuck_out_tongue:

Thank you for that tutorial, I appreciate it! You rock!