Same here. Both 18350 and 16340 didn’t work. Thought they’d have tested it with batteries… Early adopter grieve.
So, no-one thought “Hey, let’s make sure this works before we sign off the design”?!
I’m almost impressed.
Wonder how long it’ll take them to ship replacement battery tubes…
This should be a flat contact brass button. I'll mod it myself but others I'm sure will have problems..
This deserves a triple face palm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm:
And a good cry 
I don't think a flat anode terminal is necessary.
Both the S1 and the S41 use springs at both ends, using the same battery tubes as the S42, and can accommodate a wide variety of batteries without continuity problems or damaging batteries through compression. It seems the real issue is the distance between the threads and the metal bezel inside the cap. Too bad that, in cheapening the fabrication to meet a cost point, they eliminated the screwable brass retainer rings in the tailcap and pill end.
I'm going to try to shim the tail cap to see if the added length can compensate for the design that renders the battery tubes too short.
Still have to prepare my YouTube video for Banggood CS to prove to them that I actually have the flashlight and that it does not work...
I guess it’s really shame on us for, with their less than stellar track record, having trusted BangGood with “building” a flashlight…
Could do the shim method, but since I would bypass the driver spring anyways, might as well just replace it with a button. I'll only be using IMR cells, flat tops. Got a bunch of the Aspire 18650's on the way, but also have EFEST's now.
Eventually I'll swap the driver for NarsilM, just no time right now.
Aha, no brass retainer ring on the driver side, so it’s some 2.5mm too short inside…
I guess just remove the driver spring (and put a subtle solder blob there) will solve the problem.
Yep, good idea!
and for pre-buying w/o reviews ! :person_facepalming:
And what makes it worse is that it wasn’t the first time.
Yeah, I fell for it too…
Yeah, both sides haven’t learned form their mistakes… :person_facepalming: :confounded: 
:partying_face:
has anyone tried removing the brass retainer ring from their S41 and installing in the S42?
It lives!
The mode changing is kill'n me! Guess this is why I wrote my own firmware... Why the delays? Ugh...
Any battery rattle or anything with the fix? Does it still want to crush the negative side?
Horrible with this lights regular price that this has been overlooked to begin with
Oh boy, definitely no rattle. Crushing the Batt- end? Well, maybe... It's darn tight in there. These are older EFEST cells, so might have been already some crushing. But it you see the cell sitting in the tube, just a little under the end, and knowing the tail spring has to completely collapse down to ~2 mm maybe, it doesn't look good.
So, the solder blob is probably not enough... 
Could it be an assembling mistake?
Maybe that spring should have been put inside the larger one in the tailcap?
(edit) O, so it’s still a little tight in there?
I’m expecting mine any day now… :person_facepalming:
After the S41S crushed leds, now the S42 too short battery tube or whatever…
However, i ended up with a somewhat ‘free’ S41S after BG sent back a new head and agreed to sell the tail/switch part. Maybe we’re headed the same way again? Glad i didn’t pay the full price on this one.
I’ve no idea how to unsolder the driver spring without overheating the whole assembly… Can you share some tips?
Just do it.
Pull the spring while heating.
It takes a long time before the other side of the PCB is hot enough to de-solder parts, if ever.
sounds exciting….
Has there been ANY response from Astrolux/Bangood on these issues?
My buying habits hinge on good feedback…hint…hint.
I’m only VIP3 butt I might downsize next year