What gap?
Can you be more precise or mark it on picture?
The next round of the clear S2+ is supposed to have the stainless switches. Also, Simon just got a batch of the stainless switches so if anyone wants to try swapping one out they should be listed in the store soon.
He’s referring to a small gap where the tail threads into the tube. Jarder28 contacted me about it.
Look here:
It’s not a big gap but it’s there. I actually checked mine and it too has that tiny gap. I’ve gone months of using without ever noticing that so it’s not heartbreaking IMHO but I will bring it up to Simon so that he can address it in the next run.
I see it now.
I don’t have that on mine.
Did you try to screw switch retaining ring further? It may solve the problem.
I had one grey with gap but switch board was not right in place and retaining ring wasn’t tight and after fixing no more gap.
I tried swapping in from gray s2+ with normal or no gap and still the clear one has that gap. I also tried tightening the retaining ring still didn’t work. It’s not a big issue but its a factor for quality but I think It’s fix-able.
For units with a gap, it could probably be fixed at home by sanding down the body tube a little.
I received my clear S2+ from Shenzhen Convoy. Suprised it came with a blue lit tailcap. I also ordered the new firmware but unfortunately it doesn’t work properly because of the lit tailcap.
When I put a tailcap from my old S2+ on the clear the new firmware has no problem. I contacted Simon to let him know but it is not really a big problem for me.
I prefer just to remove the tailcap light. Do I just unscrew the ring inside the tailcap and then unsolder the LED from the PCB in the tailcap?
Dug in the spare parts bag and found a normal pcb with switch and spring that i ordered from Simon long ago.
Fitted this and it’s all good :+1:
Wow, I didn’t know they were gonna come with a lighted tail cap. That’s a nice idea, but it has to match the driver. A lot of times they are not compatible with each other.
I’ve already sent information to Simon about the lighted tailcap causing issues depending on the firmware, and information about how to fix it with a bleeder resistor. But for a metal switch, it’s generally best to not even attempt a lighted tailcap. Not much light can get through, so it’s kind of a waste.
Oh, is it only on the black metal switch models?
I thought it was the rubber switch models.
I have nice results with grinding down the bottom edge of metal button and using PD68 six LED lighted tailcap board.
Stock on right and 6 leds with grinded button on the left. I used 22K resistor to each LED pair IIRC and 1K bleeder on driver and biscotti working correct that way.
And I have some other color with 6 LEDs and grinded button:
Today I have another Clear S2+ which got biscotti and 1K bleeder. With stock lighted switch it was not good. And even with 10K resistors at switch pcb. I now going to try 22K for each LED. And If it works Anybody can tell Simon the info. I only had success with high forward voltage LEDs in switches like Green, blue, white, pink and purple. I can’t set correct resistors for yellow or red ones with biscotti.
Edit: Clear S2+ with biscotti, 1K bleeder on driver and 22K instead of 330 Ohm at each LED on the original lighted switch board and everything works fine. Firmware and switch light too.
So it is not really a problem of the firmware but of the driver?
If the driver has no bleeder resistor the lightened tailcap may work or not (and the firmware/UI may work or not)?
It is a combination of driver and firmware. The stock driver with old 3/5 mode firmware work without a bleeder resistor with lighted tailcap.
The stock driver with Biscotti and lighted tailcap will turn in to next mode memory.
Driver with Biscotti and lighted tailcap only work correct with bleeder resistor on driver.
Biscotti relies on being able to measure time while the power is off, and the lighted tailcap means power is never “off” enough for that. So it breaks unless you add a bleeder resistor to bypass the driver while “off”.
The stock 3/5 mode firmware only measures time while on, so it doesn’t care about the lighted tailcap. However, this also limits what the UI can do, because it can’t tell the difference between a short press and a long press.
I took the lit PCB/switch from the tailcap and put it into one of my other S2+ which still has the old 3/5 firmware and a clear rubber boot - I love it! It is a really nice feature.
On the clear S2+ with the push button tailcap switch the glow was hardly noticeable.
I would really love to install a lit PCB/switch into my Convoy C8 - does anyone sell the PCB/switch separately? (I mean with the SMT resistor and LED and switch/spring already installed on the PCB)
This may be similar or exactly what’s in the Convoys: https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-SCSS-BLF-X5X6-Flashlight-Lighting-Switch-For-DIY-p-1102279.html
on flash sale $1.99 for the next 5 days. Also here: Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com
My clear S2+ host hasn’t arrived yet, so I’m only guessing that’s the switch. I bet someone else can comment.
Yes it looks very much like that one, however the one I got from Convoy doesn’t have the interesting looking double spring setup, but it does have the same blue colour LED.
If I have some time I will take a photo of the PCB i got and post it up.
I have noticed on ebay there is a seller who has the Clear S2+ with a rubber boot tailcap:
Is this likely to be a clone/fake? I did not see any clear S2+ in Simon’s store and did not know that the rubber switch version was officially released by him?
Simon does have a rubber tailcap version of the clear S2+ (I have one), but you have to ask him for it. I asked him as I remembered seeing a picture of one (possibly in this thread) and he said OK. I’m not sure if he has the clear S2+ tailcaps with rubber boots in stock or they’re are just left overs from the prototype fase, or he just throws an S2+ tailcap in the clear anodizing line (I have no idea how his chain of production works)
PS: I believe ordering from his Aliexpress store will be cheaper