Well as a geek i often get exited about new stuff, for instance the AMD Threadripper CPU’s got me panting really hard, and it is close to me building a new system for borrowed money.
But most times i come to my senses as the price on that new toy calm me down, and so i end up being the kind of person that upgrade his phone when it break every 3-4 years, and my TV are 8 years old by now ( first TV i ever owned, and i was 40+ when i got it )
My “new” phone are 10 cores, and that’s about 8 more then i will ever need, but it was a good deal so i over-killed on that my favorite hate devise, cuz i really do hate smart / cell phones, but circumstances force me to carry one ATM
What i would really like now is to upgrade my 22” CRT monitor to something that use substantially less power.
My quadcore Core I7 computer ( first generation ) will have to soldier on for a while.
On the flashlight front i am not going to go overboard, but aside for the Q8 i will need to find me a smaller light to EDC as the ones i have now are a bit overkill for that.
And maybe a light for my car that can be plugged into USB charger so its already ready to go.
Let me recommend a Solarforce L2M for your EDC. A host from Solarforce costs $10.99 + 2 for shipping. Buy the drop in of your choice from Kaidomain or Fasttech or who ever and you can use either a 18650 for full size or take off the extension and use a 18350 to make it small and powerful. Really great flashlights. If you want to make the flashlight even smaller and lighter buy a L2T head which is round without the anti-roll hexnut ring and it drops a few ounces. If you want a standing tailcap there are still a few to choose from.
Convoy M1 or M2 would serve as well and cost less. And still retain reverse clicky… Solarforce likes to use forward clicky’s that don’t work well with TK’s reversing A6 or Bistro firmware if you’re thinking of going that route. When you consider that the P-60 drop-in module can easily cost more than the host a standard build style is much more flexible.
Convoy S2 or S2+ has options on the 18350 and are cheap enough as well. And the new Convoy stock driver has TK’s Biscotti for choices.
I cant be bothered with modding flashlights i have to say.
And the ultra small ones like running on a 18350 or similar that’s just too small for me, would work fine for my friend as he seem to love what i call lipstick flashlights.
But i prefer something a bit more beefy and i might even consider one with a 26650 as i carry in belt and not pocket.
Biggest issue it seem to me is finding one that also have a good pouch that will last more than a few months.
But not to worry i will find something that will work for me, but it might take a few tries to get it right.
The Convoy BD06 and BD01 both run off a 26650, have built in chargers run off any standard USB charger. I just recently got a BD06 running on the newest revision of Biscotti and I was VERY impressed. Convoy is just about to list the new larger holsters that fit the C8, BD01, BD06, M1, M2 and a few others. It’s a very rugged holster and the BD06 is an extremely rugged light You could get the switch-direct rechargeable light and holster for under $30…possibly as low as $25.
Here is the new holster for the larger-than-lipstick lights.
Yeah i have been looking at those convoy flashlights, with the build in charger it would be perfect for the car permanent plugged into a 1 A USB outlet when not in use.
It always seem to be the stitching that let me down on the pouches i had, so bad i have been thinking about getting my leather work gear out and make my own.
But those tools are hard to find as i have not used them since 1988 or something so buried deep in my long time storage place, and nowadays i am more into Kydex at least for holsters holding knifes, i really like to try working with that stuff one day.
Picked up a L6 with a N4 1A Emitter. ~6500K. Wanting to upgrade it to a XHP70.2 P4 2C 5700K emitter but I have a question. Does anyone have any comparison shots of a 5700K 2C tint? I find the 6500K 1A is a bit too blueish and I’d like to get closer to a true white w/o any noticeable yellow. Is 5700K 2C a good tint to fit the bill?
Well 200 more lumens is kinda nice, it would push the l6 closer to a real 4000 lumens rather than the 3500~3800. It would be a little more efficient too. The only tints I can find right now in the 70.2 is a 1C and a 2C. Would a P4 1C @ 6000K be better than the bluish N4 1A @ 6500K? I’m basically trying to hit a tint that when I shine it at something white, it doesn’t show up blueish and something that isn’t too yellowish white. I wonder if a P4 1C would be it?
I can’t help you there. I tried a 5700k xhp50.2 in my l6, but didn’t like it. Much too yellow for my tastes.
The 70.2 are still pretty new so not many people have tried them yet. You might ask this question on the thread for the 70.2. Some of those guys have bought them.
I pre ordered a customized L6 : SMO reflector, dedomed led (colour ~5000k) , thicker copper plate for the led, double springs for better batts contact.
In stock version throw is around 57000cd, in SMO version with dedomed led ~970000cd with a better (for me) colour ~5000k.
I just upgraded my L6 from the stock XHP70 N4 1A 6500K to a new XHP70.2 P2 1D 6000K and loving the tint. Still on the edge of cool white with a little bit of natural sunlight tint. I went camping and took the L6 out for a test run. The L6 lit up a lake all the way to the other side into the trees! Amazing! I have a question. I’m having a hard time trying to get the actual lumens per mode switch listings. All I can find is current draw. Does anyone have the lumens per mode info? Thanks.
Measuring lumens requires a calibrated integrating sphere for good accuracy. A few guys here have homemade versions of those devices but I don’t think anybody has fully mapped out the output to lumens ratio yet.
Theoretically, the 70.2 should put out the same lumens at the same amp draw as the earlier 70. In your case, you’ve got a slightly higher bin number so you should expect that if the amp draw is the same as the old emitter, the new one’s output should be a little bit higher. I could be wrong, though.
A rough estimate of lumen output can be done with a ceiling bounce test if you have a lux meter. You would need to set up a specific location on a table then set the Lux meter at a specific location right near the flashlight. Shine the light straight up and measure the output on all four modes with each emitter. Since we know the lumens of each mode with the stock emitter, we can estimate the new lumen amount based on that.
Thanks for the info. I do not have a lux meter unfortunately. I’ve heard numbers like 3500 on turbo, others 3800. I’m going to guess the 70.2 I have will push it to either 3800 or 4100.
That sounds about right. The real advantage of the 70.2 is that it doesn’t stop at 12 or so amps like the xhp70, it can keep going up to 18 amps! That’s where you get your 7,000 and 8,000 lumen from.
I would recommend adding a resistor and get good unprotected batteries as well. This gave me 2 extra amps and a matching bump in brightness over the protected Keeppowers.
Oh yeah, I picked up my LX1330b Lux meter for about $30 on ebay. It’s very cool to have.
