Great mod! Thanks for sharing. Now, I want to see the 6ft of wire. You didn’t take a picture of the 6ft of wire? 
lol, it is all coiled up inside the driver cavity, I didn’t have 6 arms to hold it in place and take a picture at the same time. If I decided to reflash the driver I will snap a pic then.
Yep, 4s with super low Vf LEDs… Looks like your eyes were bigger than your heatsink. 
Nice light.
Nice way to spend the weekend :+1:
This light is begging for a buck driver, it could run for quite some time in full regulation. The Texas buck would be perfect for it. I might end up building one of those someday and using it. 10A seems to be about the sweetspot, past that it is quickly diminishing returns.
This does give me an idea what a quad xhp50/70 Q8 would do though and it is great.
Another interesting point is that the M6 is much heavier then even my modded SRK’s with solid shelves. It takes a bit longer to heat up from cold due to the higher thermal mass but it gets significantly hotter and stays hotter for much longer.
I was playing with 2 of them at similar power levels and they both got real hot so I set them aside to cool. Came back later and the SRK was cool but the M6 was still surprisingly warm. I never really realized just how effective even those tiny fins on the SRK are.
Very nice!
How much feet of wire could you have saved by not bypassing the springs?
The springs would have reduced the power enough by themselves most likely but they also would have melted in a few seconds. Anything over ~5A per spring and I have not had the best luck with longevity with un-bypassed springs.
I bypass anything over that just to keep them from melting later.
Whats there to say but wow. 
Awesome work
What is the length and diameter of your creation?
Of the M6 light itself? It is just a normal M6 on the outside. Quick measurements put it at 145mm tall by 60mm wide at the head.
Although it is one heavy beast, a bit over 1.5lb total as it sits right now.
How was the OD on the slug?
The slug was fantastic and worked perfectly, you did a great job! I had to sand off about 2mm as planned but it was worth it since I didn’t know exactly what the compressed optic height would be.
This light is still going strong, really liking the smooth floody beam for tasks that need it. Boy does it get hot though if you turn it up too high! Strangely it gets hotter and stays hotter then the SRK by a fair margin, those tiny fins really do something.
For those that wanted to see the wires in the driver cavity, I opened it up in order to glue the tube to the head now that I know it is working so I was able to snap this picture.
How much of that heat is due to the wires playing ballast resistor in the driver cavity?
Do you think replacing some of the 319a’s with XP-L’s would get the current under control without the wire?
Finding the right tint could be hard but it might help spread some of those lumens around.
The wire is adding some heat but not enough to be noticeable. In total the light is around ~200 watts of output. The wire might be dissipating around 10W max. The heat is mostly due to lack of surface area, there is just no place for the heat to go. I have an 8x xhp50 17k lumen SRK with similar wattage but it stays a bit cooler and cools down noticeably faster due to more surface area.
Doubtful that a few XP-L’s would be enough to drop the current by themselves, it would help but unlikely to be enough to make a big difference unless you replaced like half the LED’s.
The best idea would be a buck driver. The Texas buck should be capable of driving these fairly well but no one has tested it yet.
That 10 watts is just adding heat to an area that is already too warm but I guess there’s not much else you can do.
What happens if you do more pulse width modulation and put a decent size capacitor in parallel with the led’s to reduce the flicker? I know its a bad idea since there are a lot of smart people here not doing it, I just don’t know why. Even adding some resistance or a choke between the capacitor and the led’s is a lot simpler than going to a buck driver and has a better chance of fitting in a small light.
One of these days I need to get back to working on my M6 mutt. Two xpl hi’s or dedomed xml2’s with Ultrafire spot lenses on one channel, triple xpl hi with Carclo spots on the second channel and triple xpl hi’s with a smooth spot on the third. Probably fet,fet,7135 on a bastardized version of bistro that emphasizes flood at low levels and the spot’s on higher levels. The first step is not screwing up when making the spacer.
10W is a less then 5% of the total output of the light, which overheats in about 90 seconds on turbo. It might last 95 seconds without that heat but it will still overheat in a big hurry. There is simply too much power for the host.
You could limit power via PWM, the results would be ok, the efficiency would drop some and most likely balance out the heat from the wires if not a bit more to get the same output. I chose the wires so that it would limit power no matter what batteries I put in it and it was simpler then trying to find the perfect PWM.
Adding an output capacitor is actually a perfectly workable idea, the issue is size and cost. You would need a very large cap to make any noticeable difference with 200W of power flowing through it Getting it to fit in the light would be a challenge and it would cost a reasonable amount as well. If you could figure out those issues it would work fine and improve things a fair amount when under PWM.
In a light this size, you might be able to make it work. In a normal 17mm driver, there is just not enough space to make it worth it.
If you need a spacer for the 20mm Carclo triple, justanotherguy did mine and it turned out great. I had him add in some extra height to ensure I could sand it down to a snug fit but turned out my original measurements were almost spot on and I bet he could make you one for a reasonable price if you need it.
My spacer is a bit more complex, the Ultrafire lens is a lot taller than the Carclo and 21mm diameter. No mounting feet so I’m trying to make pockets to support the sides of the lens. It’s tight but it fits if I draw it out on paper. I’m having a hard time with setting it up in the four jaw chuck in the lathe accurately enough.
That light of yours is just a monster. 200 watts is about what it takes to run a 1/4hp motor, the motor is much more efficient and still uses a cooling fan.
Looks impressive!