ALL THINGS BUDGET KNIVES

Unfortunately, most of the spyderco clones tend to have all the markings and every time I have inquired about the real steel used, the answer from the seller is always S35VN which is what’s on the blade (I did contact LDT and asked so don’t bother LOL!). The only exception was when I got my Domino from Dicoria and the ad stated it was 440C.

On this one I assume something like a xCRyMOV or 440C just based on the way it sharpened, maybe it’s something better but at that price, I doubt it.
If you’re friend want to stick with Spyderco clones, you might have a hard time getting to the bottom of what steel is being used.

If he likes the style of the tenacious, a couple of TI Spydie you might want to look at around that price point are the Domino (TI + CF laminated) and the fluted Native (gorgeous, still planning on getting it someday).
A nice little TI folder that can be had for around $45 is the Gnome, blade shape is kind of similar and the steel is D2. It is one of my favorite small folders.
The Neon clone has D2 and comes around $55 but it is not in the style of Spyderco.
CH knives has a bunch of new smaller TI folders with AUS8 below $50.
You might also go on Ebay and search for “TwoSun knife”. Most of their folders are Ti with D2. They are always in auctions so you might get lucky and score something nice below $50.
If he can extend his budget to let’s say $70, then there are a whole bunch of nice folders with D2 that can be had for that price like the Green Thorn F95s, CH Matsuda and many many others.

I have had similar experiences. As long as you keep it reasonable like 10% to 15% of the regular price, they usually accept the offer.

:+1:!

BTW, for those that use Aliexpress a lot (like me :slight_smile: ), it might be worth it for you to look into this:

Basically, you login to your account and then login to Aliexpress though their link (so they can track it) to make your purchase and you get 8% back in cashback (I usually login in private mode to make sure the cookies are cleared so they can track the transaction properly).

I’ve been using it for about 9 months now and you do get your cashback, although in the case of AE, it takes about 3 months. I’ve been using mostly on AE (8), DHG (2), Gearbest (2) and Fasttech (1).

If you want a better steel I would go for the Spyderco C186 Slysz Bowie copy (review here) or the C158 Techno copy.

- titanium frame-lock construction

- D2 blade

- no fake markings / logos

- the Techno comes with a titanium backspacer not like the original with that ugly blue G10 one

  • wire pocket clip

If you want something huge you should consider the C185 Farid K2 copy too. :slight_smile:

I had forgotten about those as they are not really my style aesthetically and also I’m assuming his friend might be looking for the more typical Spyderco leaf shape blade.
But those are good values for sure!

The Slysz Bowie is my personal favourite because of its excellent edc-pocket friendly slim design and great ergonomics. I’m not a big fan of the compression lock because for me it’s not as convenient to use as the frame~~, liner~~ or axis-lock.

Are you tempting me again ? :smiley:

The beer is not included in the price. :laughing:
Here’s the lock side of my Techno. They don’t show it on AE.

Wow, that was more than I expected, thanks guys.

Today I can tell him more, thing is, he told me to chose which kinda sucks.
It’s like picking a perfume for a women, nearly impossible to get it right :stuck_out_tongue:

I guess i’d take the Neon Ultralite as I do like my S30V version that I got long ago.
I do have the Gnome but I would have to thin the blade on a new one, around 8mm behind the cutting bevel is way too much.

I’ll recommend him the Slyzs Bowie for the blade steel, the PM2 for the price, lock and looks (and probably same steel as the Tenacious).
Sizewise these 2 are best, the Slysz seems to be a bit closer to the 20cm mark that it shouldn’t exceed.

Ok guys, I’ll keep you informed.

Oh, @Isti, which one is the better slicer? UltraLite, Slysz Bowie or PM2?

I can’t comment on the others but the Slysz Bowie which is a pretty good slicer.
It cuts bread, tomato, smoked bacon, salami and even camambert like laser. :+1:
Sorry, I’m not interested in cutting cardboards or making feather sticks. :person_facepalming:

Thank you, I guess I’ll recommend the Slysz Bowie and the UltraLite (would like to fiddle with that one).

The most he’ll cut would be EVA foam, maybe rawhide like I do it, and the usual edc tasks, maybe some fishing, even though he has a nice Helle fixed knife.

Hey guys,

Might be a long shot but I thought I would ask here:

- Do any of you have the Green Thorn Tabargan?

  • If so, were any of you able to take it apart successfully?

Yesterday, I started hearing some rattling that wasn’t there before. It’s not from the thumb studs, the axis lock lever or the blade.
The rattling comes from the pivot area but I cannot see anything loose.
The rattling only stops when the blade is fully opened and in the locked position.
While examining what could cause the rattling, I also noticed that I have now a bit of blade play that wasn’t there before.

So I decided to take the knife apart. Problem is that I can’t.
When I turn the pivot screw, the other side turns at the same time, so both sides keep on turning together. The other side doesn’t have a slot for screw driver, it’s a stud, so no way to hold it in place to prevent it from spinning and break the loctite.
I was under the impression that every time they use a stud like this, the cylinder barred has a flat side so there is only one way to put the knife together and that holds the pivot in place preventing it from spinning.
I have taken apart some other Shiro clones but can’t remember for sure how they are as I’ve never had any problem with them.
Anyway, this one apparently does not have the flat side since it keeps on spinning, which is a pretty big design flaw imo.
Right now I’m stuck, I cannot disassemble the knife nor tighten the pivot screws.
Anyone ever had a similar situation? Any ideas?

Thanks.

Try to remove the stand offs and the back spacer. Open the knife but don’t lock it, let the blade hang at 90 degrees, Then press the 2 handles together while trying to loosen the screw side of the pivot. Applying heat on the stud side might help. Good luck!

Thanks. Problem was that the screws for the scales were loctited as hell as well.

Searched the web and fond something that worked for these types of pivots (domes stub not D-shaped) so will mention it here as it might help someone else.
The trick is to side load the blade to kind of jam the pivot, so apply some force on the blade while turning the pivot screw.
With the knife opened, I first tried to lay the blade flat on a table and apply some pressure on the handle downwards while turning the screw. That didn’t really work.
So then I tried with the cutting edge facing up and apply some downward force on the handle while turning the screw and that did it.
Then I turned to the scale screws and found the same problem, both sides kept on turning.
For those I applied the soldering Iron on the dome part while wiggling the screw part back and force and in about 20s they came loose.

So now I was able to tighten the pivot so no more blade play but the rattling is still there.
I’m at work right now so can’t take the knife apart but I’ll try to have a look at it this weekend.
I cannot for the life of me think of what could be rattling (and why does the rattling stops with the blade opened and locked)

Good to hear that you managed to open it. How does the pivot sit in the hole through the blade, is it maybe worn out so that the blade moves unless it is locked in place?

I didn’t get a change to disassemble the knife, I just got the screws to loosen up, I’ll try this weekend and see what can be.
It shouldn’t be worn out though as this is the first week I carried and used this knife so it’s brand new.
It started to happen yesterday after I was playing soccer with my son, it was clipped the side pocket of my shorts by my knee, so I guess something didn’t like all this swinging.
Anyway, hopefully I can figure it out this weekend.

It’s usually the stop pin what makes this sort of rattling noise. When you open the knife the blade tang pushes against it and keeps it in place (no rattling).
A little thread locker or glue at the ends of the stop pin will help.

That may very well be it, it makes sense, I’ll have a look tomorrow, thanks Isti.

Today,

(something a bit different!)

- SOG Seal Pup (Taiwan version, but there is also a China version)

  • Glock combat knife/dagger (Made in Austria)

both around 40 bucks/euros.
both have good reviews on the tubes.