Q8 Dual footprint, quad LED copper DTP LEDboard interest List

Not a bad idea. The 12 o’clock LED could gain enough space most likely but the 6 o’clock in screwed. It’s not possible to gain enough space on that one for a centering ring without vastly reducing the trace thickness to the ground ring.

I will play with it and see what I can come up with.

Here is a slightly updated version with more room for the 12 o’clock LED centering ring. The 6 o’clock LED is out of luck, the trace would have to be reduced more then it would be worth to move the resistors far enough away for it to matter. 3 centering rings is more then enough to keep everything centered and working properly though.

It sadly did take a hit in the looks department though, looks like I beat it with the ugly stick. lol

Do the screw holes need to be perpendicular to the wire holes? I think not because the wires go through one big hole in the shelf. So you can rotate the screw holes 10 degrees clockwise and get the jumper pads of the 6 o clock led further to the left.

No wait, I missed that there’s cavities in the reflector for the screw heads, they can’t be moved relative to the leds :person_facepalming:

Correct, the screw holes are fixed, they have to be between the LED’s in order to line up properly.

You could make the screw-hole facing side of the 6 o’clock LED permanently connected with either the positive or negative trace. It would act as LED #1, and the others could be connected either in parallel or series still from there. Removing those resistor pads entirely will mean that centering rings will work on all four LED’s then. That’s important to some of us for purely aesthetic reasons. :innocent:

EDIT: Oh Wait. I see, you’ve already done that with the 9 o’clock LED pad, and you can’t do it with both. Sorry. :person_facepalming:

I played a little with the traces.

Good outside the box thinking. Still not enough room for a centering ring but heavily trimmed it might fit. Here is a version like this:

Thanks to both of you for working on this for us! :+1:

Interested for sure

@Texas_Ace

Dam i am not really good with anykind of photo/paint software. Could you please remove all parts inside the red circle? Then put the 6 o´clock Led in its right place but rotate it 90degre. I have something in mind but i have to see it to check if it would work.

Like this? I didn’t want to move all the traces only to put them back but this should get the idea.

Its ok now i can play a little.
Have to get my mind from the today delivered light (https://de.aliexpress.com/item/Dual-Cree-XM-l-U2-Led-Torch-2-x-Cree-XM-L-U2-2-U2-5/1987840494.html). I will upload a few pictures in a new thread when my cam is reloaded. A few very big noooooooo goes. A 3mm deep hole underneath the ledboard (from the drillbit tip). Scratches all over the host. A dent in the battery tube. Sratched lens retaining rings. Some kind of residu on the reflectors. ultra cheap plastic lens instead of the offered glass lens. And can someone tell me how many bond wires i should see when i look at a cree xm-l u2 led?
Do not get me wrong this host was bought to mod it anyways. But some things (like the cavity below the ledboard) are a really bad start.

A small divot below the LED won’t make a noticeable difference if you fill it in with thermal paste. As long as most of the star has direct contact it will be fine.

What you have to worry about are any bumps under the mcpcb, those are very bad.

I think that you can get even more space if you arrange the traces a bit more precise than i could do. But this should be a solution that gets you the most possible clearance arround the led. But after a good night of sleep i maybe come up with something better.

Interesting idea but sadly I don’t see it making any difference to the important measurements. The LED pads are 7mm x 7mm, so it doesn’t matter which way we rotate it, the clearance will remain the same (we can’t move the LED itself without it being mis-aligned from the reflector).

The limiting factor in this case is how far from the LED we can get the resistors. I think your last idea is the best we can hope for. Although I did just realize that we are actually encroaching on the 9 o’clock LED some, I need to move that resistor some.

I don’t see things being improved by any notable amount past that just due to the limits of the mcpcb size.

The mcpcb size is not perfect for all the things we want to put on it. But i think that we are getting really close to a design that is working. And most modders will be able to do with it what they want (make a awsome light even better).
I hope nobody will find anymore flaws in the design (if so speak up !!!). If it is ok and nobudy has to add something i would like to get in contact with BG or KD in the near future.

@Texas_Ace
If you are ready with the final design, would you please upload a pic? So everyone can have a look. I hope that this will be a good solution for most modders!

far as I know the design has not changed from the last one I posted. When I get home I can upload it to oshpark. Although most likely banggood will remake it on their own software and just use it as a reference anyways.

Well, you did say this just a couple posts up: