The BLF Automotive Car LED headlights, results, opinions and beamshots!

Let me update my opinion of these bulbs. They are a LOT brighter than stock. Now that I’ve gotten out of my driveway and are using them in normal situations, I’m surprised everytime time I open my door. It’s like a blast of light. Lol. Its very easy to tell they are much brighter than incandescent bulbs.

The color is also fine. I’m starting to get used to new color. Before I would have given these a 4 out of 5 star rating, but now I’d say they are 5 out of 5. :+1:

for free, that is…

Alright thanks lads i am going to buy some H9 today and make em fit. The corolla has projector style headlamps so i could use a HID kit but its a bit douche if i was drive around blinding people lol.

I like the RMM light bars but out of budget right now smallest one is 500 Aussie pesos. So i will try and find a smaller light bar and fix it up my self make it waterproof and dust proof using of the shelf parts. Unless some one has a light bar they can recommend?

Probably 12 inch in max in size i could go smaller if i wanted. A few ways i can do this i guess use XHP50/70 that are 12v would be the easiest way. I was even looking at using 10-12 XPG3s i dont need any thing fancy. At least if i make my own i will mix the output so have some that are 3000k and others that are 6500k and some in between. Maybe even hook them up to their own switches.

TA how do you feel about a BLF light bar? lol

I watch roadkill and the cars they drive around in we would be arrested for here or fined heavily the laws are silly. I use to mod my cars but to much hassle now every where you drive the gov has highway patrols trying to make money.

I’d definitely take them, if shipping isn’t too much from you to me. I would have thought you’d have them gone by now.

I recently tried some sealed 6x7 LED headlights sold by LX-Light on Amazon. These lights are allegedly DOT approved. They did have an acceptable cutoff, but not as sharp as my aftermarket headlamp housings with glass lenses. The biggest problem by far was the beam pattern. Car headlights need to have a fair amount of throw, and this thing spilled almost all its lumens within the first few dozen yards in front of the vehicle. On low, it literally had no hotspot. This was verified with a lux meter. The hot spot with the old headlights and 80W halogen bulbs was almost exactly 10x higher than anywhere in the LED beam pattern. I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t be able to stop my old Jeep in time if a deer were in the road while I was going the 80 mph speed limit. It spilled much more light to the sides than usual, which would probably blind other drivers, but could have been kind of nice for me on night time off roading trips. These lights were supposed to be 6500K, but I think they were even colder than that. There won’t be a long term review of these lights as I quickly returned them.

I like testing stuff, but I have no H7 vehicles.

With 6x7 lights I’ve seen versions that had projectors built in. That’s what I would look for if I had a vehicle with that size. Then stick in a Led or maybe HID bulb.

Here’s a pretty nice review video of fifteen different LED bulbs in the h11 size. I can tell you now that the bulbs using the Philips luxeon zes emitters pretty much kicked everybody’s butt as far as brightness and proper beam pattern.

Huh… interesting!! Wonder how much those GTRs go for… :smiley:

$200 to $240 a set. I would never spend that much.

Darn it, I stopped getting emails about this thread a few pages ago. I wondered why the sudden lack of interest.

I skimmed through the last few pages and there is some good info, thanks jason for the in depth testing!

I really like what you did that, I think I will have to try that if I don’t go full projector.

I really like those interior lights, I am always wishing it was brighter in mine. I am sure my turn/brake lights could use updating as well, mine are LED but so old they are still based on 5mm LED’s.

You guys that have led brake bulbs, especially the 3157/3357 type, can you tell me if they worked well with the reflector assembly and made for a nice, bright “Oh crap, the guy in front of me slammed on his brakes!” reaction?

Also if they had good contrast between the dim running light and the brighter brake light.

If so, what bulbs were they?

Right now I’m looking at the Sylvania Zevo.

Mine are 10 year old ebay specials that use 5mm LED’s. They are brighter then stock but that is not saying much. Much faster reaction times and more noticeable red but I am sure there are much better options out now.

Eep!

Yeah, I’m out…

LED automotive lamps that have been making a splash on my vehicle forum lately is a brand called Hikari, which feature 2 X XHP50’s per lamp, and have been pictured having a good beam pattern in halogen projectors @ ~$60/set.

Projectors are not as sensitive to the emitter size and shape compared to reflector housings.

Xhp50’s may move the cutoff pattern up or down, but you can probably just adjust the housing to compensate.

One downside is that a lot of halogen projector lights tend to use enclosed housings. So the LED heatsinks can’t get air circulation. In these situations an HID bulb might be the better choice.

First, make absolutely sure you test your sockets first, to see if they’re “standard” or “CK”. Get the wrong ones, and you’ll pop fuses.

My Regal has standard sockets for the rear brake/turn lights (red), but CK in front (amber). Go figure.

The standard ones from JDM are f’n amazing. I was running 3557s(?), whatever are the 40W bulbs instead of 32W. These were even brighter than the incandescents.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MC79TLA/

And they did surprise me, that the light fills the whole reflector assembly and rear lens. No “hotspots” anywhere. They just look damned good!

And I left the standard blinky relay and let them go blink in double-time. I got used to it, so it doesn’t bother me.

Need CK? No idea.

I got standard-base ambers, and just testing the left-side, it went pop. Melted part of the plastic base. I explained this to the nice folx at JDM, and they took ’em back no-questions-asked and refunded me the price (’though I ate the cost of shipping them back, no big deal). Got a set of CK-type ambers from them and yitamotor. The JDMs are brighter, but hardwired for CKs. The yitamotors have a “smart” socket, that it doesn’t care if CK or standard, or even which way you plug them in (they work either way!). Only they’re about half the brightness. I put in the (now discontinued) JDMs.

Now, for my LaCrosse, I wanted to get those same ambers for the rear turns. Again, discontinued. So I got a different set, standard, and just bent the “lowbeam” wire back’n’forth ’til it broke off. Ditto the inboard ground wire. This way, whether CK or standard, it’ll just work and not chance popping fuses.

Hmm, looked up my order for the amber JDMs, Amazon doesn’t even list that page. So yup, discontinued.

Okay, low-to-high difference, at least in amber. I’m NOT happy. Most claim a 3:1 difference in brightness between low and high. It should be more like 10:1. Keep the brights the same, but make the lows significantly dimmer. On my Regal, when I have the parking lights on (nice and bright, woohoo!), and put on the 4-ways or turn-signal, it just barely blinks slightly brighter. I thought the low/high leads were reversed! The “trick” is to just bend them over to the other side. Even worse! Back to the original bends (dare not bend them ever again…), and I just live with it.

This is for ALL brands I’ve seen.

Now, for some reason, the red brake lights I’ve got in back don’t seem to have this problem. The (brighter) red 194s light up the “ring” around the brake lights nice and uniformly, and the low setting exactly matches this. Step on the brakes, and the center brake light is, well, nice and bright. I have no idea, but it just looks damned good. For some reason, ambers just are too close together in low/high that it bugs me. And this is every one of the 3-4 pairs I’ve gotten.

I might just throw the yitamotors in front in my LaCrosse once I splice in the 25Ω resistors. This way I won’t have to care about standard or CK.

That JDM link is $35 for 2 bulbs. Pretty pricy. I think I’m gonna try the Sylvania Zevo for about $20 bought locally. I mainly want them for my motorcycle. It has seperate turn signals so I shouldn’t have to worry about the flasher relay.

That whole CK bulb stuff is a real pain. I need to look into it more.

It’s a little better. They’re much brighter bare, but the lenses must filter out much of its spectrum. I tried white LED’s, but the filtering was even worse.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G6R668U/

I’ve always had issues with brake leds not using the reflector properly. I think with shallow reflectors we need to use bulbs that fire into the reflectors.

I’m gonna get some Zevo bulbs and report back.