A Perfect Dedome?

Note well that the boiling of flammable solvents requires the use of *electric* heat. I learned that the hard way...

Oh my!

I’ve also noticed that products in other countries like paint thinner and other similar chemicals have good documentation regarding its make up. In the us, i never know what is actually in the product. Sometimes it’s listed on the product itself but often not. So if I want to find a product with taurine good luck to me. :stuck_out_tongue:

Just finished my first dedome! An XM-L2 emitter in boiling paint thinner. It went extremely fast. Like 2-3 minutes.

I used this thinner Förtunning Benco 14 | Utspädning för lackfärg | Nitor | Jula

So you finally started to listen to me guys… :slight_smile: Works each time, and it works perfect. 2 minutes dome off…
But if you want ultra clear dd die than 15minutes and after that put it in isoproply alcohol bath and blow with compressed air. Result like MEM or Mitko from this thread each time…

I hate nitro paint thinner it smels so bad but i must try it if the results are so good.

Edit:

Tried and successfully dedomed 2 leds, xml-2 u4 and xpl v6, i like the results and i will use this method from now on.

Hello, it seems too greenish dye? Is a new xpg2 s42b, dedomed gasoline, placed in UF 1504, runs at 4.05 amps at boot with blf a6, regards!

Yeah, green. :stuck_out_tongue:

Thanks for sharing, I am in Italy this week and found this :

I don’t know is there is a difference between Antinebbia 180 and Antinebbia ?

My god! Put the light back together with the newly dedomed xm-l2 emitter. It has the worst green tint I’ve ever seen. Totally unusable…

Will Nitro thinner make the tint to change less to green?

And this is why you dedome cool white LEDs, not warm :wink:

It was an xm-l2 u2 1a emitter. So that shouldn’t be the problem. Maybe it was the thinner I used?

Tried it against my ZL sc600 mk iii hi first. Shouldn’t have done that :person_facepalming:

Guys. Any nitro thinner from your local shops should work. It does not have to be one I linked. Use from your own local market. For best results follow my mentioned method. My all come ultra clear so should yours…

Edit:

“If you want ultra clear dd die than do 15minutes of boiling(you must see bubbles if it is boiling hot) and after that put it in isoproply alcohol bath and blow with compressed air. Result like MEM or Mitko from this thread each time…”

And perfect method is revealed. :partying_face: For harder silicone base emitters that are hard nut to crack do the same but you can slightly and carefully cut them from side to side with scalpel which will allow better solvent penetration.

You will all thank me after this :slight_smile: I did lot of experiments with my market available solvents to find that the best stuff is in front of my nose in basement and it is even not that harmful since a lot of guys cleans paint on their hands and even face after messing themselves with color they just use mentioned nitro paint thinner on the skin :smiley:

P.S.
Did I mentioned that you can de dome them 5-15-50-100 or even 1000 if needed at once with this method? (just choose proper size pot)

Will the nitro solution dedome a XHP70.2 emitter?

I guess you should try :slight_smile: I am very convinced it will. Especially if you closely follow what I wrote. Good night people… 2am…

Thanks for sharing luminarium iaculator. :+1:

:+1:

Just tried luminarium iaculator’s metode with nitro paint thinner with two XM-L2 CW is works great :

Thank you so much for sharing this :+1:

This is proper result of my method :+1:

Thanks… :beer:

Edit:

Another tip… Don’t go to close with compressor air gun when blowing out remaining silicone. Strong compressor could be to much for that tiny wires. Use it at least 20-30 cm above led and if you can aim minus toward plus size of emitter (so all junk will fell over + wires in single blow).

What about the tint?