Difference between Opus BT-C3400 & BT-C3100 v2.1?

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Oh, my bad. :person_facepalming: … But thanks for letting us know. :+1: … :wink:

I just completed a trivial test with 3 chargers—- 3100 / 3400 / Liitokala 500
With a 3 cell group of NOS laptop pulls that were charged and matched a year ago on the 3400 ( didn’t want to abuse good cells)
My conclusion—the BT-3100 mah reading is around 5-6 percent higher than the other 2 chargers—The 3400 and the 500 test fairly close on average—amazing considering the Opus’ discharge @ 1 amp and the Lii 500 @ .5 amp—— When you compare the readings as a group,then figure their percentage match—all 3 chargers are very close in that regard—- this set of cells with all 3 chargers is around 4% match— Not sure why there is #1 cell that is a flyer ( target term) but the overall average is pretty consistent

BT-3100 / Lii 500 / BT3400

cell #1 2122 / 2161 / 1999

cell #2 2208 / 2070 / 2070

cell #3 2166 / 2077 / 2083

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Thanks for the info & pics of thr LiteOn gauss!! Much appreciated…. :slight_smile:

So can anyone sum up what the differences are between the C3400 & C3100 v2.1?

The 3400 discharge to 3.1v ,3100 discharge to 2.8.

It would depend on when you bought the 3400…….

Haven’t bought one yet. My C3100 v1 is on its last leg, so I’m looking to get another…. or “upgrade” to the SkyRC MC3000

If you upgrade to the MC-3000 just be aware of what you are getting to. I only thought I knew when I got one…. :person_facepalming:

A great charger no doubt. :+1: Much to complicated for me though. :slight_smile:

I love the UI of the Opus, but I feel like it’s worth the price point. I constantly get ghost battery indications (screen reads FULL after I take the battery out), bad voltage readings (full battery reads 0.2v), the fan has been giving me trouble for 2 years and just died, and one of the negative terminals snapped off so I’m left with 3 slots.

So I’ve heard that the newer Opus chargers have fixed these issues, but it makes me wonder if I should just invest in a higher priced charger

I don’t know if all the issues have been “fixed” or not on the OPUS. We discussed a bunch in this thread & a couple of others too.
My 3100 v2.2 works fine & I have no issues at all now that I upgraded the power supply.
Never had any issues at all with the Lii 500… it is my favorite.

Good luck choosing.

I know this is an old old thread but I bought the 3400 ,and when I asked the seller from e-bay (rdna)told the difference was the “sofrtware”
That’s all he knew or told me I have had it a little over a year and the only issue I have had is the power source melted and the seller is sending me a new one under warranty

That LITEON is sold out, and my Opus V2.2 came with the KYT 12V 3A power supply.

Is there another power supply you can recommend for this charger? Will any old 12V >=4A power supply work better than the supplied supply, or are there characteristics I should be looking for, like that efficiency standard?

At the 7 second mark of the video shows the Opus BT-C3100 V2.2 Charger sparking electricity, yellow flashes at the input plug connection every time I plug in power using the included 12 Volt charger(also used another 12V charger which also is sparking). Tested the included charger with my multi-meter and the charger is only 12.3 Volts DC. Is this a FIRE HAZARD? None of my other battery chargers ever spark. Connected the charger through my OPTI-UPS Grounded Surge Protector so its not an outlet issue, which I also tested and works fine with other electronics.

Reading through this thead on Page 4 about the “…The Opus will draw more than 3A in peak current, in my test I measured 6A for nearly 0.02 second. Then 0A for 0.03 seconds, bringing the average below 3A.” and reviewer listed “Power adapter: DC 12V, 3.0A ( Output ), 100 – 240V, 50 / 60Hz ( Input ) ”

sparking picture

Short video:

Longer video

eBay purchase Link

Plug the power adapter into the charger first, then the power supply to the wall.

Best I remember this was discussed in one of these threads. It is normal . Mine does it. If you plug the 12 V in before you do the main it (of course) won’t do it.

I have the vague recall that those sparks on connecting power are caused by lack of capacitors to handle the surge current — cheap design.
Anyone know more/better? It’s not unusual to see those sparks on a lot of electronics.

The sparks are actually caused by the high voltage smoothing capacitors, due to the high current while they’re filling. Ideally the power supply should have an inrush current limiter (usually NTC resistor) on the input to prevent this but not all of them do since it’s not mandatory.

http://lygte-info.dk/info/SMPS%20workings%20UK.html

Search for NTC.

As a normal procedure , for most of the chargers and power supplies, first insert the main power cable in the 110-220 V , and then connect the secondary to the charger , WITH NO BATTERIES INSERTED ! Somehow , this is common sense...

This won’t prevent the sparking since it has nothing to do with whether the output is connected to a load or not.

If the preventing is the problem , just leave the 12V plug in inserted in the battery charger , and connect and disconnect the main supply . As for me , I have the 12V or 5V input for chargers connected ALL the time , and the mains are connected and disconnected thru few wireless plugs in ,with a remote control , as is needed.., I do think that is an elegant and reliable solution (I'm using it for many years ). A professional power supply has the NTC resistor placed in series with the high voltage capacitors , in the main voltage area , so , problem solved...