Yes you can, I ran an R060 at 9V for a 3S build I did, about 1.2A. R050 should give about 1.4A

Awesome thank you! Also, which resistor case style should be used? ie 1206, 0805, 2512

They are 1206 sense resistors, at 1.4A R050 you will need at least 1/8W resistors.

Thanks again!

I installed the H1-A in an Convoy L2 but unfortunately shorted the LED wires with the reflector.
Then something on the driver died and produced smoke. I took it out and discovered the R025 resistor was destroyed. I tried to change it to another resistor but I think there is also some other component dead because now the driver gets hot very very fast and there is a loud noise from it.
Sooo, don’t short out the emitter wires!

Likely blew out the internal mosfets of the TPS61088. I had the same thing happen with the KX70 driver when I accidentally shorted the LED wires with a reflector.

Today I made C8 using XHP50.2 4000K 90CRI on DTP in OP reflector, H1-A driver and lighted by 4000K leds tailcap(10k for each led). But i have a problem: on the lowest mode when battery voltage is between 3,8-4,1V flashlight is making noise about 1-2kHz. Do you have the same or my driver is defected?

Switching regulators, like the H1-A can produce noise through “coil whine” in the inductor, other wiring, and piezoelectric effects in ceramic capacitors. I have a H2-C based light I built that makes a faint high pitched whine in low mode. In the high mode it makes a louder, lower moaning buzz sometimes. My v1 BLF X6-SE also makes faint noise in the middle modes.

As for whether these are defects, maybe. My X6 got louder when I had disrupted some of the silicone compound used to stabilize the inductor and its windings. Careful application of silicone in the right places can help quiet things down. In the case of the H1-A and H2-C, one can’t really get at the windings of shielded inductors, nor should it be necessary. Stablizing the inductor above the PCB and other components might be useful, though.

So i took 2pc 10uF 50V X7R caps and just connect them in parallel: 1 to output caps and 2nd to inductor caps, so now no more horrible “bzzzzzz” at lowest mode! Maybe it will help somebody who have the same problem.

When you have PWM in the audible range, any black fabric you shine upon will make it audible.

I need a recommendation for a 18650 battery to run my H1-A. I was going to use a Sony VTC6.

I was also thinking of using a Samsung 40T, if I decide to use a 21700 battery instead.

Any thoughts, tips, insights, hints, opinions are welcomed.

NoFakeCells wrote:

I need a recommendation for a 18650 battery to run my H1-A. I was going to use a Sony VTC6.

I was also thinking of using a Samsung 40T, if I decide to use a 21700 battery instead.
…

Any cell capable of 10A continuous is adequate. If boosting its output driving current up to 4.5A a higher current cell may fit a bit better, but no big deal.

Cheers