Yeah, i was looking for one of those twisty 123A lights, which are even cheaper, but they all look very cheaply made.
This K03 is quite a nice host for the money i.m.o.
Thanks for the sharing of this light. :+1:
pardon if this was covered, but - simple question:
does it cutoff when the cell voltage gets too low?
does it also let non-rechargeables go all the way to 0V?
(the old XTAR WK42 did this, when you put in a new cell, it looks at voltage and decides if this is rechargeable or not. if it is, then it cuts off at at 2V or so. otherwise it lets non-rechargeable go all the way to 0V)
wle
I don’t know, wle.
But it’s a linear driver, so the party is over before you discharge a 16340 too far.
good point, jerommel
this light [i got one] is good enough for the price
i was annoyed at myself though
i thought it had L M H for some reason
instead it is like all super cheap lithium-ion-capable lights - H L BlinkyUseless.$#$#$&%&
oh well
my bad
not sure why i thought it was H M L
(is it so expensive to do L M H?
if i am using a tiny battery, i don;t want to use H or M unless necessary
what about HML for AAA lights, they all seem to be one level except lumintop, who annoyingly does M L H)
—this is what i reviewed it, on aliexpress:
——
it is pretty good for the low price - LED color is cool white, nice whitish tint - no purple or green - always starts on HIGH, i would rather it start on LOW, - i don’t like strobe mode at all but the cheap ones always have it - light is well made, good quality, i think it is probably waterproof just not for diving - it does not produce 300 lumens with a CR123 battery - probably needs 16340 li- ion for that - pattern is ok, has a hot spot in center, with some usable spill - it COULD be shorter with a TIR optic, instead of reflector and glass- overall GOOD FOR THE PRICE….
—-
wle
Good host.
I changed LED to cree xm-l2 u3 1b. Driver from Convoy 4*7135 with new firmware. TIR lens 17 mm 20°.
Small bright thing 
TMW [ too much work ]
5-10 minutes. And someone here is too lazy 
I wish it didn’t need so much work. Poor driver and a non CREE kinda kills it for me. Although I would pay $10 for an XPG2 and a better driver.
Maybe they will listen.
I changed the second flashlight like this: LED cree xp-g2 r5 4c, driver from convoy.
$2 flashlight, $0.8 led, $1.5 driver. 5 minutes and lot of fun
Nice looking, very cheap, and if you look closely
That is a geniue cree xpg, not a lattice bright !
It’s not a Cree. (at least, mine wasn’t).
Just wanted to say that the switch in this thing totally sucks.
It has to be replaced.
(ymmv)
I put a 4000K Nichia E21AT sm403-D200-M1-R9080 in it with a 30° (i think) pebbled TIR on a single mode boost driver (for CR123A) at around 2.5 Watts (estimate) and it’s just lovely.
I replaced the switch though, because it was horrible…
Where do you guys get the TIR lens?
I used a Ledlink TIR from member kiriba-ru. (i had to reduce the diameter though)
But i have a growing collection of TIRs because i just buy some here and there sometimes so that i usually have something useful in stock.
Thanks, Jerommel. :+1:
huh - re the switch, i thought mine was fairly good
it maybe takes too much travel and pressure to push, but on the whole i liked it
on the other hand, they may vary due to the low price, some good/some bad, can;t tell
wle
Could be, wle.
But i had an identical one (form another light) and it was just as bad. I threw both in the trash…
I put one of these in there in stead:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Flashlight-reverse-switch/1572591646.html
They’re my favourite reverse clicky switches.
I had to file down the corners a little to make them fit, and then i soldered it on a modified 15mm board with a spring.
I also used a better suited switch boot.
So in all more extra work i didn’t anticipate, but i guess that’s the hobby…
ha ha- switch cost almost as much as the whole light…
wle