BLF style 18650 1s thrower( poor mans Olight M2X)

Maybe you will get lucky on eBay, but I wouldn’t count on it. The filter is the important part. It has to closely match the “color sensitivity” of the human eye.

Mitko has this one: http://www.lightingpassport.com/

Djozz this one: http://www.lichtconsult.nl/product/mobilux/

Their main characteristic is 1000euro!

What would be nice to see is that Mitko and Djozz compare their luxmeters on same host. Mitko’s super thrower light.

Those Supwildfire factory should praise you Mitko with at least 10-20 free hosts.

Comparing lux meters with one host will not reveal the differences, you will have compare them with all sorts of light sources to see what differences there are.

But my luxmeter does only one thing (though very well), Mitko’s device is way more versatile and given that it measures spectra (which is fundamentally different from a normal luxmeter) with the right calibration (!) it will do lux measurements very well too.

(I’d love to have one of those, Mitko, but really can’t justify that for what for me is a hobby)

Nice mod djozz. I admire your way of cutting of the lip on the pill. If I tried that it would have ended in tears. :slight_smile:

Thanks! :slight_smile:

Twenty years ago I bought, for a lot of money I thought, a small Proxxon band saw. It is mostly plastic but the essential parts were apparently well-made because it helt up for all those years and it has proven immensely useful and time-saving in many little projects.
But for who does not have that luxury: a hack saw should do the job as well.

I just got mine in and it looks pretty good and it works :smiley:

If i cut of the rim of the pill how do i screw it back in the flashlight?

I did all in this exact order:

-insert the driver in the pill and fix it with the retaining ring
-apply thermal paste on the (flat) top of the pill
-screw the pill in the head from above so that the flat top is 1mm above the flat bit inside the head surrounding it
-screw the battery tube in the head, against the pill, screw very tight, which is both fixing the tube and the pil in position
-position the ledboard on top of the pill
-solder the ledwires to the ledboard
-add centering piece, reflector and glass, close the bezel
-hope for perfect focus and centering :slight_smile:

Thanks for your reply djozz! Im also from amsterdam :wink:
You didnt take of the rim? At this point i want a big mcpcb like 25 mm with a xpl hi on it and put it on the pill without rim. What kind of mcpcb did you use?

maxtoch 26mm or manker 28mm

the manker one is easier to find

@polarweis

I did remove the rim, as described in post #446 above, but did not mention it because the question was about screwing the pil back in. And I used the 26mm board.

I live in the “Indische buurt” btw, in Amsterdam it never gets dark enough to need a flashlight :smiley:

testing imgur

This is how my best Mitko’s thrower looks like(over 320kcd) :

@djozz oke i will try and remove the rim… did you get a 26mm board with led on it? Maybe i need to reflow one myself. This will be a challenge lol

Well, finally I got the flashlight, put a xml2 noctigon 20 mm, dedomed, and driver blf a6, only gave 156,000 cd to 7 meters, with lg h2 …… I expected a little more …, greetings!

, Had not done bypass in the tail and improve a little the adjustment of the center, now more than 198,000 CD, not bad, I think …

They have this light on sale right now at AE for $15.67 for the next 2 hrs it says on site, SupwildFire CREE XM-L2 U3

I just modded mine. I went with xpl hi on 26mm maxtoarch board. I put a thin gasket type spacer between the reflector and the mcpcb. The hot spot is still pretty big. Bigger then c8 with xpl hi. What can i do to make the hotspot smaller?

I just tried my hand at one of these today. The host itself seems kinda “meh” but it did seem to have an actual XM-L2 in it and a beefy Omten switch.

My approach was something similar to what L.I. tried: stacking mcpcbs and opening up the reflector to accommodate them. But instead of using two 16mm boards, I stacked a 10mm onto a 16mm and soldered them together. LED is a dedomed newer XP-G2 S4 2B. Driver is a BLF A6 FET+1.

I really need to take it outside and try it. Inside the house it appears slightly tighter than a XP-L HI C8, but certainly not awe inspiring. I might have to fiddle with it some more.

I’m not so sure the 10mm board was a good idea. The lead wires slightly affect the beam.

Lastly, I don’t recommend using a pencil torch such as this for reflowing by applying flame directly under the mcpcb. That solder paste flowed in about 1 second and quickly cooked the top board to boot. Oops.

Nice idea. But I think it protrudes to much into reflector which may result in wider beam. So try to lift reflector a bit by putting tight and larger diameter o ring under reflector upper base or lip.

If you think it is good centered make “1 meter white wall recheck test”. For best lux performance beam should not have donat hole in the middle of the beam at that distance. Since I learned that on mine mistakes :wink: Now every Mitko’s thrower go well over 320-340kcd with good old g2s42b.

The led should be further away? I used a spacer that is like 0.5 mm and te beam is pretty wide. Should i put a spacer in there that is like 1 mm? Or remove a part of the reflector…

@djozz i got a crappy wide beam. If i dont use a spacer between reflector and mcpcb the beam is still to wide for what i think it should be. Do you know what i can do? I used an 26mm mcpcb with xpl hi.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Super-SupwildFire-CREE-XM-L2-U3-LED-5-Mode-18650-Flashlight-Torch-Light-Lamp-8000LM-170509/32810038792.html
15.63 $

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8000LM-SupwildFire-XLamp-XM-L2-U3-LED-Flashlight-5-Mode-18650-Torch-Lamp-Light-/152344306430

15.77$ on ebay