New 4XP Noctigon MCPCB for quad optic

Can anyone confirm if the Emisar D4 will be sold on intl-outdoor? Or will it be sold exclusively to ME?
Hank not reply my question, from US the price of shipping is prohibitive for Europe.

Compared to the BLF A6, runtimes on the Emisar D4 — at the same lumen level — might actually be a bit longer. Four emitters are more efficient than one, producing more lumens per Watt. This may vary by emitter type though, so measurements are needed.

At maximum power, runtimes will be very short. This is normal for “hot rod” lights. If it pulls 15 amps from a 3Ah cell, it could drain the cell in 12 minutes under ideal conditions. During actual use it should be significantly longer though, because thermal step-down will reduce the power to safer levels.

I have a M43, and it does not deliver 100% output with 50% charged cells, even right after turning on. It does as well as can be expected, performing admirably, but no high-power light can be expected to do that. With current battery technology, it is like trying to squeeze blood from a stone.

Perhaps new battery tech will make this a thing of the past.

I think Hank plans to sell it at his site soon, but there are some details to work out first. He noticed something he’s not happy with in the first batch, and wants to change it. If things go well, it could maybe be available in a few days. Or it could take longer. I should find out more soon.

My order says “out for delivery” so it should be here later today. I’ll have a review up as soon as possible.

Thanks for the information ToyKeeper, I am sure that many people will be interested in UE for this light!
(I keep my eyes in your review) :beer:

:slight_smile:
But you cant manage lumen level. You can just choose pwm %.
3s×8A÷4P*(Vout/Vin)×1/85%=11×8/4×1×1.2~25W
Most high-drain cells will easily carry this power, there might be too rough cell voltage drop protection.

Phew! Review posted:

Now I can finally go get lunch. :slight_smile:

(and then try to get the driver out so I can make a mess of the internals)

I’ve taken to doing runtime tests with the flashlight immersed in water to test what the driver can really do without the interference of that pesky thermal regulation. This, of course has very little bearing on any practical use case, but there do exist some fairly strong boost driver lights that have flat output if they don’t overheat.

On the other hand, ToyKeeper’s review demonstrates that the D4 puts out considerably more light on a ~50% battery than the 1500 or so lumens of a Wizard Pro.

If you will repeat this with D4 and it will pass it well, this will be best waterproof test.

LOL, good point. It’s hard to compare 1500 lm with regulation to 3800 lm without regulation. Or 2100 lm on a half-full 18350 cell without regulation. In this case, even a half-full cell with a fraction the capacity is putting out more light. Apples and oranges.

I’ll have to see if I can simulate that Wizard Pro by setting the thermal ceiling low enough to limit it to 1500 lm, and then see how flat the graph is. It’ll be a good way to make sure the regulation isn’t bumpy.

I will be getting a D4, and I will be testing it under water, but we all know about what to expect. Testing boost drivers is more interesting because they can’t all maintain flat output. They do all stay close enough to flat that you wouldn’t notice if you weren’t doing an instrumented test though.

He answered but as I mentioned before it’s better to discuss some questions directly because the key point is always lie in details. I just dont know it all. Fonarevka is opened for everyone :wink:

“The most suitable driver for such purpose based on STM32F050 or something else. It has usb loader, can be coded on C. ADC and PWM works faster and that must be enought for such purposes (there’s no hardware division, C in a few times slower than assembler but microcontroller has advantage on 48Mhz and 32bit). 3V LDO is needed (ACS711 for example), also a normal thermal sensor that does’t requere callibration. The rest scheme part is the same. Thus people could easily develop, flash and configure driver through the usb. The existed scheme is based on AVR, code is unclear and sensitive to edits. Here it is in open access, if someone need it they’re using it as is…”
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?p=1035146#post1035146

Personal contact is important. It’s not even necessary to get a licence in some cases. For example, I got a permission to use a non commercial driver firmware in my project that I want to finish this year. So it’s all up to you, hope I’ve assisted a little bit.

Thanks!

I’ve considered using STM32 controllers, but for now even a tiny85 feels huge. Normally I have been using only tiny13 and tiny25, which work pretty well with C. Tiny841 also looks nice, with extra pins and some newer hardware. But if that becomes too small, STM32 is the next step up.

Let me share this here too:

I vote for the middle one.

I don’t think that “50% battery” is a valid comparison. If you arrived at 50%, you used it for X minutes. Weaker flashlight after the same runtime will have more energy left and after long enough X it will surely outshine a DD light.

For me it’s the fourth from the left.
The one with the last step removed. :wink:

Got 3 of your D4’s Hank, spectacular, when are your D1S lights going to be available…? Thanks

T18, do you have a XP-L HI Version of the D4!?
If so, how ‘heavy’ :wink: is the max. lumen output!?

Yes I do and should weight the same as all of them, very little weight difference in the weight of emitters and frankly IMO it’s a bit much for this light, cold to blazing hot in 30 seconds or less so if your just wanting to shock and awe someone well that will do it, but if looking for working light at higher levels this might not be it, sort of depends and I don’t have a box yet to do any OTF testing, I think TK might have specs for that, or soon anyhow as she’s in the groove for furthering development now. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help, just a mention, I also have the Nichia and S4 2B which are cheaper than XP-L HI 3A and more usable so not sure really if I would spend the extra $$$$ again, working on toning it down some, different emitters.

Edit: May have misunderstood your weight/heavy question, ha ha, duh…

Excuse me Sir where is the video? Thanks

Hi Hank,
When will the D1S be ready?