Hi Richard, mtnelectronics boss. I am newlumen. I tried to order shockli 26650 qty 4 and enova falcon all 88, but the shipping came out $17… I don’t want to spend $17 on shipping… is there anyway can you cut the shipping?? Maybe like use 7 days ground?? My zip code is 89503. Lmk. Thanks.
Newlumen.
Read through TK’s review, quit awesome of course but I am having issues with one of my lights if not all of my lights, depends how you look at it.
The S4 2B if ramped up to max or double clicked to turbo will stay on max for approx 5-10 seconds and drop like a rock straight to the lowest low or to moonlight.
I have fiddled around with the 10/11 click thermal and will only get about 4 flashes following the long click, so then try to see if the 2S 2B will stay on turbo any longer than 5 seconds or until it at least starts to get warm but it won’t.
But, if after I double click to max and then after it drops to dead low or moonlight, if I then following the drop just hold the switch it will step back up to turbo and then stay there until it gets to unbearable hot to hold mode.
My XPL will stay in turbo until you are forced to shut it off and same with the Nichia, 3 lights total.
Had some thick rubberized shrink tubing so put a piece the length of the battery tube and now that is nice, gives some grip and a spongy rubber feeling.
I also can not or won’t actually take the bezel off, I started to attempt to remove it, of course, but only after making sure I let them cool down,
I have done some of my best dedomes by not letting multi emitter lights cool down enough and then try and remove the bezel, but what I’m seeing here is the bezel turns fine on all 3 lights but even with using my rubber thumb thingy to hold down on the optics while turning the bezel I still see the complete optics turning,
I am wondering if there is glass on top of the optic lens, if there is then it should not move the optic, feels real smooth like glass,
I’m worried how far I can go before I start ripping wires, I have some trits I’d like to plant in there, but will just hold off for now, hope someone can at least tell me how to enable or disable the thermal at least, did find that work around for the drop from turbo to moonlight which is good to have discovered but still it doesn’t seem to be working properly.
The XPL will get scorching hot fast, and after reading TK’s take on the thermal management which sounds real good, I am not seeing any of that with any on the lights I just got, like maybe no thermal management at all or so it seems, should have been able to figure this out easy enough but not so at the moment.
Edit: Truthfully the thermal management is only an issue because it says there is thermal management, I frankly do not really care I guess, I am smart enough to know when I just don’t care to burn my fingers any longer and I will step it down all on my own, sooner or later, smart hey…?
There is glass on top of the optics. On both of mine, there is also an O-ring between the optic and the glass, so they will try to rotate together. I wonder if perhaps the O-ring was supposed to go on the outside of the glass instead.
Anyway, I just did some thermal testing. It takes way too long to step down. I’ll be fixing this ASAP. 
I didn’t see the sudden drop to the lowest level, though. That’s odd.
BTW, to turn thermal stepdown on or off, click 11 times pretty quickly, and hold the last one until it blinks. Two blinks means you turned it off, four blinks means you turned it on. But in either case, it gets too hot… so don’t rely on it. I don’t think it’ll damage itself, but it could definitely get hot enough to burn skin.
Moved comments re: thermal management and D4 to appropriate thread
ETA on Emisar D4?
Mine gets in tomorrow ;D
So if i’m reading that thing right, I can turn on mode memory in ramping?
Unfortunately not. The D4 does NOT use Narsil. It uses its own special firmware that is similar to and or based on Narsil. The D4 does NOT have memory.
Go back a few posts and read ToyKeepers post.
Any plans to restock the 32mm T-Pad triple XML DTP MCPCBs? I want to try a triple XHP50.2 C8.
Not sure exactly when they will come. Hopefully soon.
Nope. I am not going to be buying any more products from Cutter. After what happened with several of my closest BLF friends and me personally I am through. I am not going to get into the details, but I am choosing not to do business with them.
I need to do a final look and make sure I don't have any hanging around anywhere, but I am not purchasing more.
Unfortunate to hear, but I do understand. Best way to show approval or not of a company’s business practices is to vote with your wallet. Which is coincidentally why I keep coming back to MTN.
If that’s the case, any plans to build your own 32mm XML triple, now that you have a manufacturer for copper MCPCBs with your quad boards? Personally I wouldn’t mind seeing all MTN branded MCPCBs in the future, your quad board is the best I’ve seen.
If you do happen to find more of the T-Pad boards laying around, I’ll take a couple of them.
Richard is there such thing as as triple XHP70? Does Carlco make optics for this kind of thing?
I feel like I’d pay a lot of money for an L6 with three XHP70(.2)’s on a few pounds of copper, the 30mm FET+7135 Driver - 2S Momentary - Convoy L6 and an optic… kind of like a really big S2 triple.
Know anything about that?
I don’t believe that has been done before, but I see no reason it couldn’t be done if a suitable optic is found.
Kaidomain sells some 50mm triple optics which are the biggest I have found. An XHP70 dome would likely fit in them. I happened to order one today to experiment with a triple D-cell maglite, so I will report back in a few weeks when it arrives.
I know something about it. 3 lbs of copper under 3 50.2’s still allows it to get hot pretty fast. 12,000 lumens does that. Khatod makes an optic that will fit over the XHP-50.2, so if you can get the mcpcb under them you’ll be seeing 10,000 lumens and then some from a C8 using a pair of dark purple Efest 18350’s. The Aspire cells will last a bit longer but not produce quite the lumens. An extension tube with 18650’s will do something like 14,000 lumens, and this is just the 50.2. But of course, heat is a big factor and for most people the weight is also more than they care to deal with.
Going big brings in heat problems like a big dog, so without active cooling even several pounds of copper isn’t really sufficient.
What khatod optic did you use in that C8? I was going to do my triple 50.2 C8 with a Ledil CUTE-3-SS and shaved domes, but if I can avoid shaving the dome that’s even better.
I didn’t make a C8, yet, but I made an X6. Still a 35mm optic, will have to find the number on it again…. I had that one here for a few years before using it.
Pretty fun, 10,000 lumens in a X6! 
Not all that practical, even with a taller copper sink (the Khatod is shorter than the CUTE-3)
Edit: the part number is Khatod PL605A06
i mean it wouldn’t have to be on direct drive all the time right (I know that’s a tough concept hahahah)
but maybe it could do 8k lumens for an hour and still be… able to be held by hand.
Lumens, big ones, and run times…. difficult to combine the two. Cells die, takes a lot of current to get the output. I tested my TR-J20 with 4 of the 9V MT-G2 emitters on level 4 of 7, looking to see how long it would stay above 4,000 lumens. I think it ran like 36 minutes, pulling down the 3 big 6000mAh 32650’s even at half what you’re asking. I’ve got it heat sinked in a big way, so heat was there but not quite a problem. More, like the next level, and it probably would have gotten too hot to touch.
RMM, do you know if your quad MCPCB fits the D4 and the D4 optic? If so, I’d like to list it as an upgrade option.
You’d get a better beam profile from Richards MCPCB if it fits, due to the skewed footprints. 