It’s tested values are for 1A
“Status
Product Type
Ordering No.
full production
LUW HWQP-8M7N-ebvF46fcbB46-8E8HQ65111A8023
Product Family
Color of Emission
Wavelength
Viewing angle at 50 % IV
Brightness
Grouping Current
OSLON white Cx,Cy 0.33/0.34 120° 107 cd 1000 mA”
it says 1.5A max on the datasheet, 2.5A surge.
How do you measure cd/mm^2?
Just measure the lux at 1m and divide it by the LED die area?
Also no I haven’t tried it at 5 or 5.5A in the flashlight, the driver I have just does 6A, the next mode is like 3A or something.
Your right, I had the wrong value in mind, it’s 1.5A.
It’s always the same equation for luminance:
Luminous_intensity[cd] = luminance_LED[cd/mm^2] * area_of _reflector_or_lens_as_seen_from_hotspot[mm^2] * -reflectivity_of_reflector]- * transmission_of_lens[
Since it is an equation you can can calculate any of the values if you have all the other ones. I calculated the luminance using 120mm diameter and 92% transmission (normal glass).
Oh ok that’s why it’s low.
The lens actually has a clear aperture of less than 120mm,
I would say maybe like 110-115mm because the outer edge is not properly aspherized, and just makes a big spill around the hotspot.
92% sounds accurate, since it’s not AR coated, and it’s just regular N-BK7 glass.
I get 487cd/mm^2 with 110 as the diameter.
Price is cheaper per LED if you buy 10.
Shipping was gonna be like half the cost anyway, so I got 10 to have spares (I only killed one during reflow) and possibly use more in the future.
Maybe later if I feel like it and have some spare money I will buy more PCBs and see if there’s any that have better performance.
Originally I thought maybe just use the same PCB over and over to test all of them, but I didn’t have enough time or patience to do that.
Also it seems like the PCB gets damaged after a long time under high heat, with the top unsticking, so IMO it’s better to only reflow an LED onto it once.
For a real test you definitely need to put each LEd on it’s own PCB and reflow them all in identical fashion. Otherwise the test might be influenced by how good they were soldered.
Tips to save money:
I would try to buy the displays, the heatsink and the pvc tube on ebay and replace the battery with an 18650 battery pack from some local shop. I would also replace the blackout material with something much cheaper, especially since you stil have visible spill.
I already had the battery from other projects, and the blackout material was from the previous build, it was pretty cheap too.
Cost isn’t really a big issue until it starts getting into the hundreds/thousands for a single part.
Which might happen with the next build I do… :sunglasses: who knows.
Thanks That’s definitely an interesting looking light, I think I came across pics of it many years ago when I didn’t even build flashlights yet.
I originally got my PVC idea from this guy:
Pretty sure everyone on this forum has seen that video
So you are now holding new world candela record when it comes to led flashlights.
So it throws around 2,2mcd without wavien collar?
Edit:
I can’t help myself thinking what numbers you would got with good XP-G2 here?
But since you only reflowed 2xOsram Black Flat maybe that means they are now more consistently build so maybe we don’t actually need to pick best of 5 or 10?
Excluding the big fresnel builds, yes.
You could argue that a big box with a giant fresnel lens in it isn’t really a flashlight, but a more clear definition is that this is the most powerful LED flashlight with a “less than 12” size optic”
Also the lux for those freslen builds was measured relatively close, like 5-15m iirc, so unless longer measurents are taken I’m not sure how reliable those are due to massive spherical and chromatic aberration.
It might be that they can produce that high lux at close range because of the diameter, but when measured farther away it decreases at a faster rate than 1/r^2.
Not sure though, because I don’t have a fresnel lens to test.
What I do know though is that when I get back from vacation I will try to save up money for better measurement equipment so I can confirm my lux numbers at even bigger distances (you saw in the other thread how measuring at 5m gave a completely incorrect value)
Currently on my shopping list is:
-second luxmeter from a different brand to double check values with
–150m laser meter (3x longer than I have right now)
–1300m laser rangefinder (less accurate than a laser meter but can do way longer distances)
.
I would guess between 2-2.2Mcd without the collar, yes.
What I would really like to see in this monster aspheric light builds is zooming function. For example 300-500 kcd of very wide flood mode(pure large hotspot that no reflector in a world can compete to) but because of wavien collar flood mode would be very limited right?
The way the single long focal length lens system is set up, it would need to move a very long distance and only widen the beam to like 10-20 degrees instead of 0.
A multi-lens system would need to be used, especially if there is a wavien collar which prevents the lens from getting more than 35mm close to the LED.
In order to get the best throw, I stick to single-optic systems for the least possible loss, and large spill doesn’t really interest me.
Also, with less than 500 lumens coming out of the front, there’s no way to get 500kcd and a wide spot at the same time
True, I just said ‘less than’, cause I have no idea
I just checked and it looks very similar in brightness to my 240lm P5r.2.
Makes sense, it’s probably close to 1000lm at the current I’m driving it, wavien collar leaves about half of that coming out at 60 degrees, and then about half of that actually hits the lens.
As you can see, lumen efficiency is not key here xD
they aren’t that cheap!
