I have the user-configured thermal calibration working. The UI for this is a little more detailed thoughā¦
Fast-click 10+ times, then click and hold.
Light blinks out the current temperature limit in C.
Let go of the button if you want to exit now with no changes. Otherwise keep holding.
Light ābuzzesā for two seconds. Let go during this time to set limit to the maximum (~70 C). Otherwise keep holding.
Light goes up to turbo.
Hold until you feel itās too hot, then let go.
The light then blinks out the new temperature limit in C, and shuts off.
This way, you can check the current number, set it to maximum, or set a new calibration by feel. Also, setting the ceiling to a high temperature ā¦ will hurt. But thatās probably a good thing.
I like that it flashes out what it is currently set at so you can check where you left it.
XP-L is pretty beastā¦ but I think Iāll go Nichia on this thing. Would be my first floody Nichia and highest amped light. My mouth is watering at the thought.
Currently, there is no way to disable mode memory. Itās easy to bypass during regular use, by turning the light on with a long-press or a double-clickā¦ but it could be a potential issue when kept in a pocket or a bag if you left it in a high mode and it gets tapped by accident.
Making it optional would need some sort of config mode. Adding an actual config mode would require deeper changes and make the interface more complicated.
So, Iām trying to figure out if itās okay to always have memory or if it needs a config mode.
Anyway, hereās the UI so far:
Changes from the original version include:
added full thermal regulation with user-calibrated ceiling
added mode memory on click-from-off (default 100% 7135)
made beacon use current ramp level
made double-click toggle turbo (not just one-way any more)
made LVP drop down in smaller steps
calibrated moon to ~0.3 lm on Emisar D4-219c hardware
blink when passing the 100% 7135 level, for reference
I LOVE that UI, thank you for your wonderful work TK !
I wish the thermal config was that easy in my TA driver with Narsil (I have it in a Nitecore HC30 and struggle to use the thermal config )
While I can flash the ATTiny, Iād much rather see this UI available directly from Richardā¦. the more I see here the more I want to see it in my shopping cart at mtnelectronics.com.
Yes. Hopefully Richard will start selling preassembled drivers in different diameters with this UI. That way we can install it in all our e-switch lights. :+1:
Love the new changes thanks for all your work TK, will ramping output on beacon be also something that transfers to the output of the bat and temp checks light output as wellā¦?
Or are they not all connected, I have no clue about coding stuff but I can tell you that the work you do can be very important to someone someday on many levels.
Iāve been with WA State Search and Rescue since 1975 and was showing some of your UI;s in some lights to a few guys and one guy asked me while I was showing him how I could use one of your UIās to check the battery levels and his response was, Oh really, I thought that was a international distress signal, well I near hit the floor, he was right, well needless to say he was on to something because it does look very close to international distress and if I saw that on a rescue blinking out your bat volts or temp even Iād have thought the same thing that he did, but seeing it so often knowing itās bat check that never occurred to me before so if lost in WA State just use TKās bat check or temp reading for signaling for help and bag the beacon, amazing,
Your work TK might save someones life, no joke. So always keep one cell at 3.3v when hiking in mountains just in case ā¦ ha ha ha,
Fixed that smooth tube to comfortable hand fit now, feels nice and rubbery and not slippery at all and fells better in diameter. Helps keep heat down from the head as well.
There is currently no way to turn memory off. Setting the memorized level is easy though; it automatically remembers whatever you ramp to.
I think thatās the plan.
No, itāll fit on attiny45 though.
It wonāt be feasible on tiny25 until I write a whole new code base from scratchā¦ and maybe not even then.
No, the ācheckā levels are hardcoded at a medium-low output level. Bright enough to read the value, dim enough to not use much power.
The momentary ātacticalā mode is hardcoded to use only maximum output. For the sort of person who wants a tactical burst mode, I donāt think theyād be happy about having it āburstā at only 30 lm if they had been using the light to look in the glove box a few minutes beforehand. Me, Iād rather have an adjustable momentary modeā¦ but I donāt think Iām the target audience for this feature.
FWIW, itās probably not a good idea to add insulation to a hotrod light. It might make the light easier to hold when itās hot, but ā¦ if itās too hot to hold, itās probably too hot period. Adding insulation just makes it get hot faster and makes it more likely to damage itself. It needs as much heat-shedding capacity as possible, and a sleeve eliminates an awful lot of surface area.