While I can flash the ATTiny, Iād much rather see this UI available directly from Richardā¦. the more I see here the more I want to see it in my shopping cart at mtnelectronics.com.
Yes. Hopefully Richard will start selling preassembled drivers in different diameters with this UI. That way we can install it in all our e-switch lights. :+1:
Love the new changes thanks for all your work TK, will ramping output on beacon be also something that transfers to the output of the bat and temp checks light output as wellā¦?
Or are they not all connected, I have no clue about coding stuff but I can tell you that the work you do can be very important to someone someday on many levels.
Iāve been with WA State Search and Rescue since 1975 and was showing some of your UI;s in some lights to a few guys and one guy asked me while I was showing him how I could use one of your UIās to check the battery levels and his response was, Oh really, I thought that was a international distress signal, well I near hit the floor, he was right, well needless to say he was on to something because it does look very close to international distress and if I saw that on a rescue blinking out your bat volts or temp even Iād have thought the same thing that he did, but seeing it so often knowing itās bat check that never occurred to me before so if lost in WA State just use TKās bat check or temp reading for signaling for help and bag the beacon, amazing,
Your work TK might save someones life, no joke. So always keep one cell at 3.3v when hiking in mountains just in case ā¦ ha ha ha,
Fixed that smooth tube to comfortable hand fit now, feels nice and rubbery and not slippery at all and fells better in diameter. Helps keep heat down from the head as well.
There is currently no way to turn memory off. Setting the memorized level is easy though; it automatically remembers whatever you ramp to.
I think thatās the plan.
No, itāll fit on attiny45 though.
It wonāt be feasible on tiny25 until I write a whole new code base from scratchā¦ and maybe not even then.
No, the ācheckā levels are hardcoded at a medium-low output level. Bright enough to read the value, dim enough to not use much power.
The momentary ātacticalā mode is hardcoded to use only maximum output. For the sort of person who wants a tactical burst mode, I donāt think theyād be happy about having it āburstā at only 30 lm if they had been using the light to look in the glove box a few minutes beforehand. Me, Iād rather have an adjustable momentary modeā¦ but I donāt think Iām the target audience for this feature.
FWIW, itās probably not a good idea to add insulation to a hotrod light. It might make the light easier to hold when itās hot, but ā¦ if itās too hot to hold, itās probably too hot period. Adding insulation just makes it get hot faster and makes it more likely to damage itself. It needs as much heat-shedding capacity as possible, and a sleeve eliminates an awful lot of surface area.
On the upside, with your adjustable firmware he can just set the temp sensor to a good setting with the sleeve equipped.
Iām not a huge fan of smooth tubes with no knurling. Lights like that feel slippery. They donāt feel secure in the hand. The ideal solution would be for someone to make an optional 18650 battery tube for the Emisar with knurling.
Alternatively, I can try to make a grip sleeve for the light. I did that with my SC63w with good results by adapting a sleeve from a budget light. Solved the grip issue. It does get hotter faster, but because it has a temp sensor itās not a problem.
Or I can use my hand knurler to try to apply my own knurling. This works, but looks like total crap. Iād prefer to avoid this if I have an option.
Wondering if the diameter of the battery tube is anywhere near that of a bicycle handlebar? Or motorcycle throttle grip? There are a lot of those that are skeletonized such that theyād breath the heat out but prevent a direct contact between skin and the light. Just thinking out loudā¦
Iām not sure how accurate my calipers are, but it says 23.9 mm for the body tube.
Then again, it says my Efest cell is 65.0 mm, and RMMās site says 65.4 mmā¦ and 23.9 is an unusual size. So, I suspect my calipers might be a little nearsighted. I guess thatās what I get for raiding my dadās junk drawer instead of buying a good one.
*clackety clack*
Okay, now I have a script to correct for measurement bias, using 65.4 / 65.0 as the correction factor.
Thanks TK for the insight re: output on bat check and the like, just thoughts and I can only imagine what youād be fully capable of if only you had more room to put your coding into, it was only a thought.
Re: how I did the tube, I use 1ā industrial heat shrink tubing, but it takes some work, you have to turn it inside out because of ugly industrial printing and the finish, I already knew how much it will pull back adding to the finished thickness so it went from the 24mm tube bare ano to just under 25mm finished, then use an exacto knife to trim and then use some light gauge sandpaper to scuff the rubber up and then I use some stuff called super lube to rub into the scuffed rubber and that will make it even softer, this stuff will absorb heat like from around hot electrical wires so I had thought about what TK mentioned but really there is zero chance of any of my lights ever getting so hot to cause me any issues again after what I was taught yesterday, so this wonāt over heat your light but was something smart to think about,
I thought first about actually doing the head with some stuff I have but just in the grooves on the head, this stuff draws out heat and would keep the ano from touching your skin, probably will see what happens with that but after TK gets the new no screwing around with lights ready for sales.
These lights have become my lets see what happens lights, if you know what I meanā¦
By the way just adding 1mm of extra thickness to that tube makes it really comfortable holding it, I have bigger hands so I sometimes have done this same thing even doubling it to have some grip to the lights and never have had an issue, there are lots of different ways to do this, shrink foam tubing is good also but never use the shrink with the adhesive inside, that will not make you happy believe me,
Edit: TK your calipers are spot on, I just rounded up but your measurement is exactā¦
Eh, space isnāt a limitation on this light. Itās using less than half the available bytes, and I might be able to get it down to a quarter with enough refactoring. I like this little stuff; itās kind of my version of playing sudoku. Bigger and more complicated tends to feel more like āworkā instead. And I particularly dislike dealing with badarchitecture and badarchitects, which tends to happen a lot with bigger projects.
With more space, people make bigger and weirder abstractions which cause bigger headaches. To see how that can go wrong, look at some of the stories here: The Daily WTF