Iāve used Talon myself and really do like it, mostly on handguns and actually was where I got the idea for covering and coating lights that have some issue, you can start here and youāll never end with ideas,
āTalon 5x7ā0.5mm thick,!! Heatā¦ Remember, Shepard, Roos, Hex Mag, Black Wings Gripā¦ ā:Amazon.com
Iāve probably used at least 50 different brands and types of stuff, from skate board no slip, to some really nice pistol grip materials with some great designs, sky is the limit frankly, my shrink thing on that one light was what I had on hand and knew it wouldnāt cause HEAT issues, that you always have to keep in mind. Iāve been doing this to fix up some really ugly lights but they looked cool just had bad ano or something so use this sort of stuff to fix it upā¦ have fun,
Edit: Started doing lights with these types of materials after attempting stuff like powder coating, stripping etc. and believe me this is the way to go, cash wise and hassle free for the most part.
As soon as Hank releases itā¦ which should be pretty soon. Heās testing a release candidate now.
If I come down with a bad case of hit-by-a-bus syndrome, the code is still open and published under a fairly robust open-source license. Not unlike how Tom got busy and I was able to fill in. Fortunately though, he didnāt get hit by a bus; Iām told he is fine but preoccupied with other parts of life. I hope things will settle down soon so he can come back. Unless heās having a really good time, I mean. I wouldnāt want to cut that short.
Iād have to find a volunteer to do the nut-roasting test.
Canāt do that one myself.
Double-click from off (or from a non-turbo level) goes to turbo.
Double-click in turbo goes to the previously-memorized ramp level.
A single click still turns it off.
To set the memorized level, simply ramp to whatever brightness you want. It also sets memory when turning off, so you can double-click to turbo, then single-click off, and memory is set to the highest level.
Memory is only used for the ramp level, not for the mode. So, if you turn the light off in beacon mode, memory wonāt return you to beacon mode.
Basically, during normal use this means:
Ramp up to whatever level you need for walking the dog.
If you hear a noise, double-click to go to turbo and see what happened.
Afterward, double-click to go back to the dog-walking level.
It takes a soldering iron, tweezers, and a toothpick to get the driver outā¦ and some flashing tools. Click the Link in my signature for more information on that last part.
Or, to buy one, just wait a bit and both Intl-Outdoor and Mtn Electronics should have it.
Ha Ha Ha, TK to funny, seriously suggest for folks to just be patient and wait a bit, then no tooth pics, tweezers or toasty nuts, no hay problema, this upgrade to this UI was at light speed beamed straight to BLF via 16H03,
Thus has got to be one of the best UIās I have ever seen! Nice work TK. This light has made its way to the top of my must have list. Thanks team Emisar.
Life is like a box of chocolates. It gets really messy if you put it in your pocket with a D4 on turbo.
Runtimes, Forrest! Runtimes!
Really though, I love watching LotR: The Two Towers. Because at the end when thereās a scene with the Ents charging toward the tower of Isengard for a battle, itās fun to shout out āRun, forest, run!ā
Itās a long movie, but some things are worth waiting for.
Sorry to make you all wait an extra week for the D4. I hope itāll be worth the wait.
TK, do you know if the next batch of D4s that RMM will stock when they arrive will have your version of the firmware? I know that this may be assuming that you are psychic but I thought I would ask anyway.
Yes, weāre all slobbering drool over our keyboards and wearing out our mouse buttons spamming the refresh button at Mountain Electronics. Any predictions on when these will be in?