Iām watching http://intl-outdoor.com for this light to be availableā¦
Any idea when?
TK if you happen to speak with Hank, would you mind asking if he has any idea when his Emisar D1s compact thrower is to be released? Tell him inquiring flashaholics want to know:-)
I just checked mountains website again and it appears the price has increased by five dollars to 40$ for the non xpl hi versions (xpl hi is now 58:money_mouth_face:. Perhaps because of how awesome this new firmware is. Certainly worth the price as far as I am concerned.
Why not offer a pre-order on the site (http://intl-outdoor.com ), so we donāt have to keep checking it several times a day for the arrival of the D4?
+1
Is a Nice light with incredible interface (I love the ToyKeeper work!)ā¦but I hope not increase more and more the priceā¦.
Because of hype 
Wait a few more days, price will increase again.
Mike
Iām waiting for the D7 to release!
Same here! Really curious for the detailsā¦ 
Sad news. $45 to get 18350?
More than I was hoping forā¦but I think Iāll get one nevertheless.
TK
Can you please explain what the mode tactical momentary is?
Thanks
Itās a setting that shines only when you press and hold the button. You can do morse code with it (if you know morse code, that isā¦).
Checked tracking number today. My Emisar D4 should arrive Friday! Canāt wait. :sunglasses:
Tactical (momentary) mode makes it act like a 1-mode light which is only on while the button is pressed.
Mostly.
It can still access battcheck and beacon and stuff from that mode. Normally Iād expect a momentary mode to get āstuckā once entered, so that the only way to exit is to loosen and tighten the tailcap, or to have only one button-press sequence which does anything special ā a sequence used to exit the mode. But this one also has battcheck on triple click, lockout, etc. So if you do Morse code too fast it could start blinking out the voltage.
I thought it was weird, but the changelog suggests it was done that way on purpose, so I left it alone. I wasnāt a part of the original design discussions, so I donāt know why a lot of things were done.
Thanks, but most of it was Tom. I only added thermal regulation and some UI tweaks:
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+1ā¦ā¦ā¦. thatās what Im talking about
C
I suspect the extra $5 at MTNElectronics is due to Richard reflashing to version 2. This takes time, and time is money. $5 is very cheap to open up the light, reflash it, test it, reassemble. Weāre all lucky Richard doesnāt make us pay for his BAR examā¦ 
Cheapest monies you ever spent dealing with a lawyerā¦ Guaranteed!
Iām not a fan of solid copper heads like on the Manker lights.
Copper is very heavy. It sits solid in the pocket and I feel it when I walk. I find my manker E14 and E14 II to simply be too heavy for pocket EDC.
Itās even worse for side-switch lights. Having a one-piece copper head is great at getting heat away from the LED to the outside of the head. But itās counterproductive when doing so means that the head of the light instantly gets burning hot to the touch right where the controls are.
Aluminum is worse at transferring heat than copper, but frankly Iād rather have the LED get hotter and allow me to run the light longer before the exterior of the light gets too hot to touch. LEDs are tough and they can take a lot more heat than my thumb can.
I have no idea what some people nowadayās would have done had they lived in the mid to late 1800ās. Few bills for currency, heavy silver coinage with the weight of Gold if you were fortunate enough to be rich. A few gold pieces in the pocket, to go with the pocket watch and heavy gold chain it was on, a fellow really needed those suspenders! I guess he could then pay someone to wear a carbide lantern for lightā¦ā¦
The copper can hold more heat, which allows the light to run on turbo for a longer time before step-down. It wonāt really increase the brightness post-stepdown, but it should at least last a little longer before reaching the lower level.
OTOH, wicking heat away somehow will make a lot more difference than using a copper pill section. One of the most entertaining tests Iāve tried is to touch the pill with an ice cube while thermal regulation is active. The ice cube quickly forms itself to the metal, while disappearing. It looks almost like what happens if you touch cotton candy to a pool of water.
Anyway, touch some ice to the pill and it can make the entire light get cold to the touchā¦ pretty quickly. It shows just how good the thermal properties of aluminum are. Meanwhile, the driver reacts within seconds and starts stepping back up. Itās kind of fascinating to see. The step-up is intentionally slow and gradual, but it should keep going until shortly after the ice is removed.
Last night I tried some thermal tests on a Convoy S2+ triple with Crescendo. After melting some ice on it, the bezel was in a small puddle of water about 3mm deep. I didnāt really think anything of it, but the step-down stabilized almost twice as high as it had been before. Then I soaked up the water and let the test continue, and it stepped down to the original level again. Apparently a few millimeters of water at the front end of the bezel was enough to double the stable level for regulation.
That code isnāt released yet thoughā¦ I have some bugs to fix first. It worked fine in the D4, but itās behaving a little weird in Crescendo.
Youāre probably right. It canāt be much fun taking those apart to reflash them. I still havenāt taken the driver out of my green one; have been waiting until the firmware was confirmed to be actually final with the updated version available on Hankās site. I donāt want to open it more than once.
How about an open weave Kevlar glove with strands of copper woven through it? Carry the light in Turbo mode, the glove acts as an active passive heat sink with so much more surface to air structure that the light could run til the cell dies. Just a thought.