Well would you want to watch a 30feet drag race?
Lights like these, if build as a mod are awesome. But sorry for a professional party just smacking a whole lot of LEDs in there isn’t so impressive IMHO. Add special provisions so it can have higher output for longer then walhat we enthusiasts could build with a big head light and then we start talking 
I read about lights that step down to 1200 lumens after just a few seconds.
Would you be impressed by a car able to run at 2000hp for 20 seconds to throttle down to 50?
For me, heck yeah if it was build by some guy in his garage, heck no if a company dare to present it as a 2000hp car.
Of course opinions can Cary widely
I see your point about the 30 foot drag race and the car able to run at 2000hp for 20 seconds to throttle down to 50hp.
Point taken. 
All of the manufacturers should advertise Short Burst Only for hot rod flashlights.
That’s exactly what DN70 does ! a monster 3800lm small light that run 30secs…haha after drop to 900lm…Well a good S2+ will do 1000lm.
I hate that way of advertising products. A good product would say 2000lm @2min and then 1000lm until LVP. That’s the way to go.
Flashlight world is doing the moore law ? Since XHP released LED manufacturer are going the wrong way.
Please build a solid 2000lm or 6000lm lights that can sustain 30min of runtime at these specs. Engineering a head with suffisant cooling is way more difficult. I think that my son can produce a light with my lathe and put 8 XHP inside. No problem but when it comes to power on…oups i forget the main part of the light ! Heat management.
I wait for the new Olight X9 with fan cooling then
Actualy, some of us use those short bursts of power as they should be used, 10-20 secs tops for a quick observation, and thats okay
I personaly do it quite often when hunting : with either my mounted torch, or mu hand one, or with the powerful offhand torch when i am searching for the animal body or a track or smth
The thing that is not okay is the flashlight( the driver, yes) sability on a long term base…and my personal experience says its not okay, especialy talking about those fansy boost drivers
A heavy modded X6 also drops at about 1200lm from 4k in a minute or something, but my personal one is already 1.5 years old, i use it quite often yet its stable as a rock.
Of course it’s going to step down. I’m just worried the light is going to be stoopid bright when switched on… then after 10 seconds or so it steps down to moonlight mode… forever… and it’s not getting brighter anymore… $220 is really nice, but at the same time this price on day one for such a caliber of a light just seems too low, and worries me as well.
(And two days later I get a reply from customer service: “we can offer you a $5,- refund.” :person_facepalming: )
There is no way that this light will step down under 5000 lumens after it reach 50 degrees Celsius. Actually it will all depending on outside temperatures. With body mass of 1kg I expect that it will run for a 60 seconds from 30000 to 25000 lumens and then it will step down to maintain temperature under 50C….
Whell that is just my opinion and, I hope that I will get chance to get one of the first production samples like I did with DT70 and get the true readings of lumens and temperature.
This looks more like a custom product to show off lumens than one designed for real use. I’d rather have 3 or 4 emitters in much larger reflector for double the throw and running at high power through the runtime. What’s the point of having a light that can only run continuously at 15% of its full potential?
Why couldn’t they invest the R&D money into making a proper active cooking system instead of cramming as many emitters as possible in a flashlight? For me this is more like a fetish product for pleasing people with fake numbers, maybe winning the lumens race is more important than making a practical product, I don’t know.
You can use 1500lm for many hours (6-7 ?) or 5000lm for 2 hours, you must not use 13000lm or 32000lm…….
Oh yeah, you have real info? Please tell us more!
And welcome to BLF!
“Active cooking system”. Lol. I’m not sure if that’s a typo, but it’s probably accurate!
I don’t have a problem with an active cooling system in a high-powered light. But it has to be small and light enough that the light is still easily held with 1 hand. And preferably will fit into a jacket pocket, though I get that throwers probably won’t.
The largest (and brightest) light I have is an old hand-held spotlight (150 watts, iirc, maybe 200?). Powered by a SLA battery, it is large and heavy and only runs for about 5-10 minutes. It is well-balanced, so easily held in 1 hand, but very impractical. A fun toy, but that’s about it. Heat isn’t an issue, because it is incandescent and the bulb is out in front of a large reflector.
LEDs and electronics make such a light way more difficult to design, in order to get rid of all that heat where it’s not wanted.
Maybe the solution to making super-bright lights is to go back to incandescent bulbs? They’re inefficient, but heat is easily dealt with by placing it far away from the battery. Plus, there’s minimal electronics needed. Okay, there’s the issue of run-time, which will suck.
It can be useful on a downhill bike
There are so many kinds of flashlights. Lots of very different kinds of flashlights. Very small lights. Moderately small lights. Medium size lights. Big lights. Very big lights. Some people like lights of different size and different types. Some other people only like certain types of lights.
I like to post to say what I like about the lights that I like. There are several types of lights that are not interesting to me, so I do not post in those topic threads, to say why I think those lights are useless to me. I just simply let those nice people enjoy posting what they like about those types of lights. No posts from me telling them why that light is useless for me.
Maybe, one day, people who don’t like the lights that I like will return the favor.
they should have a build in a fan
The heatsink with fins inside the body is pretty useless, if you ever saw the passive heatsinks that have to cool only 100W you know what I mean
they are huge, this heatsink in there is just a joke, a massive aluminum block would be better
@richbuff, we know manufactures read BLF, so also critical posts can have influence.
With lack of info makes us speculate awaiting real user experience.
I really hope the people that have already bought this are going to e dry happy with it for sure.
But point taken, will wait till more is known
I’m a little bit more optimistic. Two things I’d like to note. First is that the passive heat sink examples you have shown is probably for steady state operation of the 100W CPU (?), meaning such large passive heat sinks are required for a maximum temperature for normal CPU operation.
The DX80’s passive heat sinks are not meant for steady state operation of 32000 lumens, but (1) to extend the high output for a longer period of time compared to when it doesn’t have this structure, or (2) for a higher steady state temperature of around 5000 lumens.
Secondly, looking at the first picture you’ve posted, there is thermal resistance between the heat source and the heat sinks, in the form of these slender copper connectors. I think this is a fairly weak link for efficient heat sinking. The heat sink of the DX80 is (hopefully) more efficiently attached to the heat source: led board > shelf > heat sink. The surface is also fairly large.
So at this point I’m a bit more optimistic. :partying_face:
But how about the following idea? So you have these vent holes on the side of the light. What if you attach a small compressor on one side for forced ventilation (active cooling)? Obviously this is not going to work outside, but is merely for experimental purpose. I mean this thing is going to cool like crazy or what? I’m interested how this is going to influence performance and step down time of the light… :smiling_imp:
I really didn’t notice this big openings on the both sides of heatsink… Now I am more optimistic about heat management :+1:
Who knows maybe the total surface of just the heat sink of the DX80 is more than that of an entire Acebeam X80…
Maybe it will be okay if tightly hand-held, so the heat has somewhere to go. Probably not at 32,000 lumens, but perhaps at 5,000. I find that it’s tail-standing that really heats up a light, even at moderate output levels. (Nowhere for the heat to go, after it has warmed up the metal of the light.)
Or… you could use it as a dive-light. :laughing: