Imalent DX80 32000 lumen monster

There are so many kinds of flashlights. Lots of very different kinds of flashlights. Very small lights. Moderately small lights. Medium size lights. Big lights. Very big lights. Some people like lights of different size and different types. Some other people only like certain types of lights.

I like to post to say what I like about the lights that I like. There are several types of lights that are not interesting to me, so I do not post in those topic threads, to say why I think those lights are useless to me. I just simply let those nice people enjoy posting what they like about those types of lights. No posts from me telling them why that light is useless for me.

Maybe, one day, people who don’t like the lights that I like will return the favor.

they should have a build in a fan

The heatsink with fins inside the body is pretty useless, if you ever saw the passive heatsinks that have to cool only 100W you know what I mean
they are huge, this heatsink in there is just a joke, a massive aluminum block would be better

@richbuff, we know manufactures read BLF, so also critical posts can have influence.
With lack of info makes us speculate awaiting real user experience.
I really hope the people that have already bought this are going to e dry happy with it for sure.
But point taken, will wait till more is known :wink:

I’m a little bit more optimistic. Two things I’d like to note. First is that the passive heat sink examples you have shown is probably for steady state operation of the 100W CPU (?), meaning such large passive heat sinks are required for a maximum temperature for normal CPU operation.
The DX80’s passive heat sinks are not meant for steady state operation of 32000 lumens, but (1) to extend the high output for a longer period of time compared to when it doesn’t have this structure, or (2) for a higher steady state temperature of around 5000 lumens.
Secondly, looking at the first picture you’ve posted, there is thermal resistance between the heat source and the heat sinks, in the form of these slender copper connectors. I think this is a fairly weak link for efficient heat sinking. The heat sink of the DX80 is (hopefully) more efficiently attached to the heat source: led board > shelf > heat sink. The surface is also fairly large.
So at this point I’m a bit more optimistic. :partying_face:

But how about the following idea? So you have these vent holes on the side of the light. What if you attach a small compressor on one side for forced ventilation (active cooling)? Obviously this is not going to work outside, but is merely for experimental purpose. I mean this thing is going to cool like crazy or what? I’m interested how this is going to influence performance and step down time of the light… :smiling_imp:

I really didn’t notice this big openings on the both sides of heatsink… Now I am more optimistic about heat management :+1:

Who knows maybe the total surface of just the heat sink of the DX80 is more than that of an entire Acebeam X80…

Maybe it will be okay if tightly hand-held, so the heat has somewhere to go. Probably not at 32,000 lumens, but perhaps at 5,000. I find that it’s tail-standing that really heats up a light, even at moderate output levels. (Nowhere for the heat to go, after it has warmed up the metal of the light.)

Or… you could use it as a dive-light. :laughing:

It sounds like Imalent and Acebeam are probably having a bit of an arms race, with the DX80 and X80.

Between the two, the X80 looks like it could make a useful “mule” type light at 1.1 cd / lm, and the DX80 has more of a typical EDC beam at 5.1 cd / lm.

Of course, neither one is small enough for EDC, but they could be useful for other purposes.

I can’t really complain about having a turbo mode which can only run for a short time, with a stable output level only a fraction of the maximum. Pretty much every single-cell triple or quad falls into that category… and they still manage to be fairly practical items.

The (D)X80 seems less practical (more specialized) due to size and price, but its hotrod nature doesn’t automatically disqualify it from being worthwhile.

I centainly affirm this light have NO active cooling system otherwise imalent would inform and repeat in every ad……

So, I need which Imalent proves that light can be useful and can do more than Thorfire S70 in continuos output….

About the cooling system yet, I dont look closer to this DX80 but if this thing dont have holes in the tail or near that, those holes in the head almost do nothing and even in the tail have holes the convection flux will only works effective if it tailstands or the head stay in higher level (non practical use light)

Saying that, for me the lights with active cooling should be sold long ago!

Its very funny you tell this about race and cars because almost all “huge” “engines preparation” with turbo charger claims unreal horsepowers values but you cannot use that more than 6~10s otherwise the engine blow :person_facepalming:

We cannot admit some products with the motto “you have it, but not use it!” :confounded:

Hmm, my “little” 3800lm DN70 will run about 90 seconds or so on turbo before the heat warning begins to flash. It will cycle down to 1800 and continue for quite a few more minutes at that level. Or, I can run it at 2500lm for several minutes (maybe four or five?) Before it cycles down. In real life, it seems a long time to have it on :). On my hikes, I often run it in 2500 for few minutes to get my bearings, then cycle down to 300, which, due to the excellent beam pattern is plenty for normal hiking.

I guess one gets used to the personality of the light and the way you use it over time adjusts. I never think about it much any more, the manipulation of it to fulfill my needs is just natural, and not hindered or dictated by the step down. Love it!

Hmm, my “little” 3800lm DN70 will run about 90 seconds or so on turbo before the heat warning begins to flash. It will cycle down to 1800 and continue for quite a few more minutes at that level. Or, I can run it at 2500lm for several minutes (maybe four or five?) Before it cycles down. In real life, it seems a long time to have it on :). On my hikes, I often run it in 2500 for few minutes to get my bearings, then cycle down to 300, which, due to the excellent beam pattern is plenty for normal hiking.

I guess one gets used to the personality of the light and the way you use it over time adjusts. I never think about it much any more, the manipulation of it to fulfill my needs is just natural, and not hindered or dictated by the step down. Love it!

I think you have a special Dn70 because my little monster is a throwteller monster!
Mine run at 3800lm 1m30s then step-down to 800lm!
After that if I run to 2500lm it run 1min and step down to 800lm.
In fact if heat protection has kicked then it step-down very fast.
That s a 800lm light with turbo at 3800lm
Here is the truth…

I just did measurements of the haikelite SC02 on turbo during 8min no step-down… I stopped the measure i was happy to get a turbo of 2000lm during that time. And light was not hot in hand.
That’s a real ad description for a light.
I say good job haikelite and imalent bad job. So I wait some review of the dx80.

Weight doesn’t mean anything that’s just inertia of heat up… Cooling fins is the key.

I got on my mill 8 xml2 on a pure copper bar of 800grs!after 3min temp raise to 80deg Celsius. I got a aluminum cooler with fins designed for 6 top-3l transistor ramp and now running at low temp. In fact my heavy Cooper bar is needless aluminum well designed fins work much better…

hIKARInoob, those little copper thingies on the CPU coolers are heatpipes
Filled with a liquid at low atmospheric pressure and covered by a fine mesh acting like a capillary fluid transport.
The heat source boils the liquid on one side, the heatsink side condenses it. It is a highly efficient and fast way to get heat from one side to the other :wink:

Yes how silly of me to have overlooked that. :person_facepalming: There’re minituarised versions of this in smartphones as well right? Couldn’t believe it at first until I saw the tear-down video…

I’ll check it again, but those were the times when I first got it. It’s seen a LOT of use since then. Hasn’t faltered.
Will post results.

I believe the SC02 does not have constant voltage circuitry, and it continually dims once turned on (someone feel free to correct if I’m wrong). So, during that 8 minutes you are constantly losing lumens from the initial 2000.

False
My lux meter doesn’t change during these 8min or less than the resolution…

^

Runtime data of SC02 can be found here: HaikeLite SC02 | Taschenlampen Forum

Bluzie strikes again

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