Yea, awesome. Just wonder if the std SRK size boards will fit. Might not have clearance for piggybacking in there? From your pics, looks pretty tight. Not sure if a SRK style driver would fit or be compatible as-is.
For $20 it would be a Q8 killer . I wouldn't bury the Q8... yet. Without knowing lumens, throw and how the UI works, hard to compare. Only 4 output levels compared to smooth ramping plus multi mode sets, etc... I can also still pocket a Q8 but with the wide head on this, I don't think I could.
depends how many want one
Oshpark sells always multiples of 3 boards
so if only one would want one thats 17.55$ for 3 boards
Prices:
17-22mm
Narsil v1.4
13.5$ Attiny85 with temperature calibration
14$ temperature calibrated, 1S LVP calibrated to any value you want
NarsilM Attiny85
12.5$ flashed no settings,
13.5$ with temp calibration and max temperature preset,
14$ with calibrated 1S or 2S LVP / temp calibration and max temperature preset, this version has no indicator LED
loose spring adds 0.3$
47.6mm add 5$ if 3 boards come together
LDO 1.2$ 21mm and bigger only
Bistro or Narsil customized modespacing adds 1-2$ depending how many groups you want changed
or you suply a hex add 0.5$
SRK Size with more than 8 AMC7135 Bank add 1$ for all 16 AMCs
so NarsilM without calibration
12.5$
LDO 1.2$
copper alloy spring 0.3$
5$ for bigger board if 3 drivers gets ordered
2$ shipping
1$ 16 AMCs
Good flashlight, but… you know, after this story with S42’s short tube and ugly USB cover too hard to trust them…
When I think about thear QC, I am understand that this QC - is only checking if it’s posible to turn on a flashlight.
So, thank you, Asrolux, but NO, until full reviews and specs.
Use 1% resistors all around
R1 : 19.1 k (220 k for e-switch lights, 360k for 2S setups like the L6 driver)
R2 : 4.7 k (47 k for e-switch lights)
R3 : 100 k
R4 : 47 ohm
R5 : 4.7 ohm
R6 : 0 ohm jumper, or can use a solder blob (LDO drivers only)
R7 : 0 ohm jumper, or can use a solder blob (LDO drivers only)
BR : Bleeder resistor for lighted tailcaps, varies between 470-630ohm (optional)
C1 : 10 uF (be sure it is rated for the voltage you plan to use, so for a 4S setup, it needs to be 20v or more)
C2 : 0.1 uF (10uf for LDO drivers, can use the same one as the C1)
OTC : 1 uF (functions as e-switch pads for e-switch lights)
U1 : SOIC-8 footprint Attiny25 for bistro, the 20mm+ versions have pads for the Attiny85, the 25 & 45 also fit on them
U2 : LFPAK56 MOSFET (aka, “FET”). PSMN3R0-30YLDX is a popular cheap option, the SIR800DP is better but costs more.
D1 : Schottky Diode SOD-323 (if using a zener and 2S cells then you will need a 200 ohm resistor here instead)
Z: Zener diode (link is external) SOD-323 (Optional, only needed for 2S+ operation)
LDO : Designed around the MIC5235-5.0YM5 LDO voltage regulator
7135 : Standard 350ma or 380ma 7135’s can be installed on these pads. I prefer 350ma myself. You will need to clip the center pin of the top side 7135 if you plan to use a bleeder resistor. The 7135’s can be purchased from RMM or FastTech