For $20 it would be a Q8 killer . I wouldn't bury the Q8... yet. Without knowing lumens, throw and how the UI works, hard to compare. Only 4 output levels compared to smooth ramping plus multi mode sets, etc... I can also still pocket a Q8 but with the wide head on this, I don't think I could.
depends how many want one
Oshpark sells always multiples of 3 boards
so if only one would want one thats 17.55$ for 3 boards
Prices:
17-22mm
Narsil v1.4
13.5$ Attiny85 with temperature calibration
14$ temperature calibrated, 1S LVP calibrated to any value you want
NarsilM Attiny85
12.5$ flashed no settings,
13.5$ with temp calibration and max temperature preset,
14$ with calibrated 1S or 2S LVP / temp calibration and max temperature preset, this version has no indicator LED
loose spring adds 0.3$
47.6mm add 5$ if 3 boards come together
LDO 1.2$ 21mm and bigger only
Bistro or Narsil customized modespacing adds 1-2$ depending how many groups you want changed
or you suply a hex add 0.5$
SRK Size with more than 8 AMC7135 Bank add 1$ for all 16 AMCs
so NarsilM without calibration
12.5$
LDO 1.2$
copper alloy spring 0.3$
5$ for bigger board if 3 drivers gets ordered
2$ shipping
1$ 16 AMCs
Good flashlight, but… you know, after this story with S42’s short tube and ugly USB cover too hard to trust them…
When I think about thear QC, I am understand that this QC - is only checking if it’s posible to turn on a flashlight.
So, thank you, Asrolux, but NO, until full reviews and specs.
Use 1% resistors all around
R1 : 19.1 k (220 k for e-switch lights, 360k for 2S setups like the L6 driver)
R2 : 4.7 k (47 k for e-switch lights)
R3 : 100 k
R4 : 47 ohm
R5 : 4.7 ohm
R6 : 0 ohm jumper, or can use a solder blob (LDO drivers only)
R7 : 0 ohm jumper, or can use a solder blob (LDO drivers only)
BR : Bleeder resistor for lighted tailcaps, varies between 470-630ohm (optional)
C1 : 10 uF (be sure it is rated for the voltage you plan to use, so for a 4S setup, it needs to be 20v or more)
C2 : 0.1 uF (10uf for LDO drivers, can use the same one as the C1)
OTC : 1 uF (functions as e-switch pads for e-switch lights)
U1 : SOIC-8 footprint Attiny25 for bistro, the 20mm+ versions have pads for the Attiny85, the 25 & 45 also fit on them
U2 : LFPAK56 MOSFET (aka, “FET”). PSMN3R0-30YLDX is a popular cheap option, the SIR800DP is better but costs more.
D1 : Schottky Diode SOD-323 (if using a zener and 2S cells then you will need a 200 ohm resistor here instead)
Z: Zener diode (link is external) SOD-323 (Optional, only needed for 2S+ operation)
LDO : Designed around the MIC5235-5.0YM5 LDO voltage regulator
7135 : Standard 350ma or 380ma 7135’s can be installed on these pads. I prefer 350ma myself. You will need to clip the center pin of the top side 7135 if you plan to use a bleeder resistor. The 7135’s can be purchased from RMM or FastTech
This light is also sold as Mateminco MT18. Check out for pictures and additional data. Either the run time data is completely off, or there is going to be a huge thermal step down (although temp is set at 60 C) accompanied with aggressive reduction in output for the fairly high run time of 4 and 3.5 hours for the highest two outputs. Price is $55, but not sure how to interpret Taobao prices.
Edit:
Based on the run time data, I see a possibility that the light steps down aggressively when reaching 60 C to the 1100 lumen mode (for the Nichia version), and stays there until batteries are depleted. So there is no feedback control for output as a function of temperature.
If so it’s a bit unfortunate that there is no 2500~3000 lumen mode where the light can sustain output fairly continuously.