I hope you are able to complete this project successfully. There is a need to advance the hardware of BLF drivers to catch up to the wonderful firmware available. Unfortunately this wonderful firmware is limited to mostly linear drivers at this point in time.
In your schematic you have an ntc resistor as well as ntc resistor port. Will this give the firmware two separate thermal data points to control temp? Or just one or the other?
Hardware will support both, so really itâs up to the software. Supporting both at once was the plan though, at 20A input current the IC will be shedding a lot of heat so driver temp may become important.
Very nice! I just had this image in my head of a graph charted and recorded by an MCU. Then able to load that information back to a computer for easy observation of heat flow. Or an MCU in calibration mode that monitors the heat flow on any given level and calculates the best thermal performance for that particular setup.
Edit: After reading this, it sounds the same as what BLF firmware is already doing. However, itâs different in my head anyway. Maybe just more detailed and more complicated than needed. :person_facepalming:
The lower resistance the sense resistor is the higher the output ?.
I was changing the emitter in my C8S and damaged the sense resistor, I donât have a R025 but I have a R018 but I think thatâs a to low value making the driver over heat?
I went ahead and changed the resistor to R018 and the driver works .
It steps down fast and starts to blink, but at least it works. I donât know if I damaged something else when I shorted the reflector but I will try to find a higher value resistor and see how that works out.
Just the fact that I made it work again I consider a victory I am more of a solder two wires kind of guy.
hi, i am using the KX70 32mm â6Vâ Boost driver in a courui d1 with a xhp50.2, powering from some good keeppower protected batteries, and notice often that something shuts down the flashlight in middle of using it. it would require me to remove the battery to restart it. it seems like the batteries are going short or something in the driver is failing, have you observed this?
I have not experienced that on any of my samples no. What current is the protection rated for? The driver can pull up to 10 amps from the cells depending on output and charge level.
No relevant information found for the driver. My observations:
Reverse polarity protected. As Jensen567 explained in this same thread some messages ago for the H1-A, this means the driver innards' ground plane is isolated from the host, which is heat transfer detrimental.
Amount of modes and spacing: 5-40-100%, with optional strobe and SOS. :THUMBS-UP:
I have a couple of those on the way already actually. Im guessing it is QX9920 based but will find out. Plan to use them in some converted mini-mag triples, so not going to push much current.
I have a Sofirn SF30A on the way from Aliexpress because of this tread on TLF, I have a âspareâ driver from a Jaxman X1S I plan to use with a XHP35 HD.
Thanks for the link, khas. I'd have preferred for those %@#@&$ not to âhideâ the pictures.
Something is said about the led sitting 5mm âtoo lowâ, or the lens not being able to get close enough above the emitter, limiting flood. Don't know how do they solve that.
Mine isn't going to be fully modded âstraight awayâ. As it comes from the warehouse I'll just put a dedomed emitter in it.
I'll probably go with an XHP35 in a near future, for now I'll just swap the stock XM-L2 with a dedomed XM-L2/XM-L, the stock driver isn't meant to handle high voltage emitters.
The XM-L I have is an old school emitter, produced maybe by the end of 2013, this means it can probably take some high current without blowing up.
I see the H2-C manages â2.5A in turbo at 12+V with ease and efficiency, at least as long as the input is 2S. How about stacking an R050 (or two R100s) in parallel with the stock ones? That would mean 3A for turbo, 2A after 60s stepdown. I'd just need a Sinkpad XHP70 6/12V MCPCB.
The thing I dislike about 12V XHP50/70 is that on all the DTP boards I have seen, the thermal pad is no longer isolated, and sits at the 6V midpoint of the series chain.