ThorFire TA13 -Sofirn SF30A- questions & dealing with

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Barkuti
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ThorFire TA13 -Sofirn SF30A- questions & dealing with

0K, about noticed this inexpensive and good looking zoomie. Reviews found just this one: Review ThorFire TA13 Zoomlampe @ taschenlampen-forum.de

Of course, I have some unanswered questions:

  • Driver trunk details: diameter and height.
  • How is the emitter held in place? Is there good heatsinking for it?

Looks weird… 

 

I'd appreciate for someone to make a disassembly of it and post some nice, detailed pictures.

Thanks.

 

Cheers fellows Party

Edited by: Barkuti on 10/11/2017 - 14:29
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Bump because bump thee

 

pro22000
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Hi) emmiter is held by plastic ring (white on picture) , which is screwed tight over it. Driver diameter 20 or 22mm (if I would have time I would check it for exact size).

Barkuti
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Thanks pro22000.

Looks good driver wise. It can take in 20700s/21700s, doesn't it? 

 

Dusty
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Barkuti wrote:

Thanks pro22000.


Looks good driver wise. It can take in 20700s/21700s, doesn’t it? 


 


I can tell you that it would take 21mm battery. It would take a 23mm battery, it’s a really thin tube. I have it apart right now, so I can’t give you a length. It has a 22+mm driver, closer to 23mm. 22mm might fit on the shelf. The pocket is deep, I’d say 12mm, and probably a bit more.
Cooling would be in the head, there is no correlation to the body. It’s a fairly loose fit. 2 O rings are in control of the slide. Personally, I prefer a Thorfire BD04, or Convoy, with the smaller head. Much better machining. If you can buy these for $5 or less, they aren’t a bad little light.

Edit: I can take some pictures, but I only have a Cellphone at the moment.

Brianbug

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Dusty wrote:
… Cooling would be in the head, there is no correlation to the body. It's a fairly loose fit. 2 O rings are in control of the slide. Personally, I prefer a Thorfire BD04, or Convoy, with the smaller head. Much better machining. If you can buy these for $5 or less, they aren't a bad little light. Edit: I can take some pictures, but I only have a Cellphone at the moment.

Cooling in the  head? I'm confused, seen some slide zoomies and they all have a pill (with o-rings) which inserts in the head from above and rests in a head shelf, with the pill's threaded tail end and driver boot protruding downwards, where the body tube is screwed. So, emitter and driver heat is mostly transmitted to the body, as the head is o-ring isolated. 

I'm starting to believe the TA13 has poor heatsinking ability. 

 

Had seen the Convoy BD04 already and looks charming to me but, can it take a buck or boost 20+mm driver?

Thanks.

 

pro22000
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hi,
Some pictures of flashlight head and driver

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B20f_qzl8fwTQUFhYWF6RVN3bWM

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Thanks for the pictures, pro22000. It's design mostly matches what I described above, excepting the head-pill piece has inner threads and the body tube inserts screwing inside. The head-lens-bezel slips up and down over the o-rings. Should have decent cooling performance, and the driver looks quite good for the price. All in all, looks like a bargain!

I bet this makes an excellent XHP35 host with KD's H2-C boost driver.

SOLD!

 

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Well, I have a couple ThorFire TA13s in the mail right now, together with two H2-Cs and two XHP35 HI C2 30Gs on DTP copper.

How hot does this flashlight gets stock? I need to determine if holding this lightstick in the hand while pumping more than 30W of combined power will be considered acceptable

 

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Hello fellows,

 

One of my TA13s arrived home. Neat looking torch. The bezel, though, comes sealed in some way, it's unscrew resistant. How did you managed to unstick it? 

 

Cheers Party

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Mmm, already read something about applying heat to the bezel, but how? Hairdryer/hot air? Maybe submerging the torch's head in a finger deep hot water? How about a finger deep white spirit?

Hope the lens doesn't take a hit from this… 

 

Cheers Party

Lexel
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Heat to the bezel with a small gas burner, like those sold for kitchens

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Just sent a message to Thorfire asking what sort of stuff is in the threads and/or how to best unstick the thing without damage. I was to straight mod the torch and this is like a bad joke.

Heat the bezel with a gas burner flame Lexel? Are you serious? That would leave anodizing scars and the lens would more than probably end up ruined.

 

Cheers 

Lexel
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I am very serious

you have to get the heat in the material fast or the whole light will heat up too much
and you need about 200°C to get the glue soft, so lilkely the bezel hitting 250°C

of course you have to put the flame so, that onlxy the bezel and tip of the head get hit, not the lens

if you do it right the section with the driver wont get over 70-80°C hot

100°C from boiling water does not do anything to the glue

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I'll see. I've yet to try anything. I think white spirit will no doubt soften/remove the stuff, so there's a good chance that it can do wonders, namely if you boil it a bit as it contains hidrocarbon chains with melting points near that temperature. 

As you can understand, I am to avoid damage to the lens, as getting new equivalent lenses can be a trouble.

 

Cheers Party

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What's up fellows? Smile

The white spirit bath did what it had to do and I was able to unscrew the bezel with ease.

Installed new emitter and driver, didn't raised the stock driver current, and I believe I'll leave it this way (1A/1.5A turbo). Measured ≈125°C peak emitter temperature in front of it with my infrared thermometer. The tint and colour appreciation are really great. Versus his good old UltraFire SK98, my friend Enrique kept complaining how Kermity his dedomed cool white XM-L2 looked. 

Bits off the o-ring behind the lens appeared here and there, that may have something to do with the spirit bath, don't you think?

 

Cheers Party

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Barkuti wrote:
The white spirit bath did what it had to do and I was able to unscrew the bezel with ease.

Hmmm. Wonder if I can now open up my F1 to replace the AR glass for non. Would degreenify the beam, make it really nice.

Giving me ideas…

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F1? I guess you mean the Zanflare but heck with Led Lenser!

 

 

It is advertised as “The jet fighter of pocket flashlights” in their european spanish webpage. LoL! 

Looks fuc@#$% cool I must admit!

 

Cheers Party

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Barkuti wrote:
F1? I guess you mean the Zanflare but heck with Led Lenser!

Yeh.

Barkuti wrote:

It is advertised as “The jet fighter of pocket flashlights” in their european spanish webpage.

Looks fuc@#$% cool I must admit!

Yeh, looks like a jet engine, actually. Big Smile

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Muto
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Lightbringer wrote:
Barkuti wrote:
F1? I guess you mean the Zanflare but heck with Led Lenser!

Yeh.

Barkuti wrote:

It is advertised as “The jet fighter of pocket flashlights” in their european spanish webpage.

Looks fuc@#$% cool I must admit!

Yeh, looks like a jet engine, actually. Big Smile

Or a Sex Toy

Call ‘Em as You See ‘Em
Never dare to question the Great Oz
The beatings will continue until morale improves

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Muto wrote:
Lightbringer wrote:
Yeh, looks like a jet engine, actually. Big Smile

Or a Sex Toy

Gives new meaning to “direct drive”…

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Of course, contrast is higher to the human eye, colour looks way nicer. Picture tint looks this way because photo white balance was set to “daylight”.

 

Cheers Party

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Self-update from #99 in Jensen567's Buck and Boost Drivers, Testing, Modding, and Discussion (Pic Heavy).-

Peeked more in-depth in the TLF SF30A review & modding thread khas posted. My modded TA13s should be achieving ≈50Klux fully focused, considering ≈20W reach their XHP35 HI C2 30Gs.

Interesting the inner cylinder extension (≈5mm) mod proposal, I wonder who would be willing to craft such a piece for a reasonable cost (preferably in copper). It is a bit @#$% to see how the torch designers didn't realized this beforehand. 

Hello? My jeans are crotchless and here I am, willing to spend money on custom flashlight parts… 

I wonder how much actual output am I getting off this torch on turbo (1.5A), prolly just ≈950 lumens. Facepalm

 

Cheers 

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I have news my comrades, more than likely due to my initial white spirit head treatment the inner head cylinder o-rings became ruined.

 

 

I've disassembled the head and taken a couple pictures, as you can see. The o-rings were installed in the upper slots, and were being torn up bit by bit because of excessive friction (no oil or grease at all).

If some of you can provide me some accurate measurements of their size I should be grateful, I believe they're ∅27mm outer by 2mm thick (cross section), though this is not an actual measurement of them as you may guess. Slot diameter seems to be 23mm. 

 

Another comment. In the Sofirn SF30A Modding, Review, Zoomtaschenlampe thread Raff comments something about a longer inner cylinder part to achieve a closer to the lens emitter in flood. Well, after toying with the parts I've come to the conclusion we can more or less address this by filing the main headpiece a bit. The above up shot is taken with the inner cylinder inside the headpiece but all the way back without showing up the inner slots, resulting in 15mm of neck lenght. Can someone tell me what is the lenght of the neck in your torches fully zoomed in? If it is a maximum of 10mm, perfect. If not, the last slot will be seen if we file the main headpiece 5mm from below. 

Thanks my dears.

 

Cheers Party

Lightbringer
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Barkuti wrote:
I have news my comrades, more than likely due to my initial white spirit head treatment the inner head cylinder o-rings became ruined.

Must’ve been Evil Spirits…

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khas
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@ Barkuti

I have a Sofirn SF30A I tried to love but couldn’t, I guess zoomies isn’t for me.

If you send me a PM with your address I can mail it to you.

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Are you serious, khas? That's very nice but first make sure there's no one around you who could be grateful and handle it properly… 

I stand by what I said about filing the sliding headpiece. It will remove the anodization but that's 0K for me, it may even give it personality. khas, could you please zoom in your SF30A and measure its neck? It is only to determine if the lower groove would be seen atop the neck in full zoom once the headpiece is filed.

If you look at my lower picture above you can see the zooming headpiece to the left. Filing 5mm from it would remove the base “grommet”, that is, the first two rings plus the groove in between. The question is how much handwork would this require as I would be doing it with wet sandpaper. I should start with a very coarse grit, doesn't it? 

 

Cheers fellows 

P.S.: may be, Lightbringer. Dipped a switch into the stuff recently and I had to oil it afterwards. Big Smile