Even with a Panasonic NCR18650B cell it still get’s hot on Turbo and starts stepping down fairly quickly. Seems to me the tube is robust enough to bore it for a 20700…. will see about that. If I kill the long tube it’s not a big deal as I like the short configuration anyway.
Has anyone installed a TA Driver in one of these? I was thinking about it to significantly improve the efficiency of the medium modes considering how high Turbo is…
Swapped out the 5A2 XPL HI I had in one of my D4s for 3A XPL HI last night. Tint looks a very pure white, much cooler than before. Cooler even than 3D.
Might be a bit too cool for me. Next thing to try is a mix and match. Perhaps two 3A + two 5A2 or maybe three 3A + one 5A2
The green color made me buy it. A birthday present to myself. My birthday was Aug 9, so my birth stone is Peridot, which is lighter in color yes but close enough. So if I can get it outputting green light as well, the inner Green Lantern will be happy. ROFLMAO
219c with 20700 sure sounds cool, i dont know how you guys get on with 18350 or 18500’s………….I can run an 18650 down in minutes, few lasts/step downs and the cell V is 3.6v. In fact, i tested a vtc5 2600mah cell, from cold 100% stepping down/ramping till it settled . Left it for a few mins and checked the V at 3.98v. So roughly a normal use from max output.
Well, the Sanyo “B” cell has some 4200mAh and does around 10A, the “A” cell is around 3000mAh and does much more current. So I was thinking the high capacity B cell might be appropro
Dale I had zero doubts that this light would finally suck you right in. It’s hard to resist an awesome light, sold by Richard, tinkered on by TK, and created by Hank and Tom. That mix of ingredients leads to an awesome light any day of the year. It doesn’t matter how many of these hot rods you have cranked out over the last several years, just hard to resist when a new one with high quality and minimal price like the D4 comes within arms reach. It’s instinct really, we can’t be blamed for what nature makes us do.
Uh, well…. I got the D4 bored for the 20700. (first time to work on the lathe after surgery, it’s 104º in the shade, no air movement at the lathe at all)
Even using the Sanyo “B” cell it’s drawing 19.54A at the tail!
I hadn’t used my lathe for months, slipped 2 discs in March and pinched the radial nerve in my left arm, had surgery June 22 and am still under Dr.s orders …. I asked about operating the lathe and he cautioned me to watch for issue and stop short. That said, my lathe is in a 44 year old shop that’s attached to a barn, it’s filthy in there! As a photographer, my gear don’t go where the lathe is! lol Sorry.
Just used a boring bar and made small passes, kept it to what would just allow the Sanyo B cell to fit, Efest high discharge cells won’t go in it. I wasn’t thinking or I wouldn’t have started it. The longer cell needed a spacer between the tube and head. This removed tube contact from the driver, so I had to put solder blobs on the driver ground ring then file them to clear the fat cell. Also had to remove the spring from the driver. And then I had to address the tail cap, solder blobs around the ground ring so the tube would contact. The spring is pressed flat, it’s a very snug fit without going to greater measures. I made a copper spacer ring on the lathe so I have a shiny copper ring between the head and tube on a green D4.
And as it so happens, the B cell I put in it for the 19.54A reading was at 78% charge level, so … charging it and will get a new reading, try to get a lumens reading, but am heading out to a rehearsal tonight for an event tomorrow… might be a couple of days before I can get back to readings…