I hadn’t used my lathe for months, slipped 2 discs in March and pinched the radial nerve in my left arm, had surgery June 22 and am still under Dr.s orders …. I asked about operating the lathe and he cautioned me to watch for issue and stop short. That said, my lathe is in a 44 year old shop that’s attached to a barn, it’s filthy in there! As a photographer, my gear don’t go where the lathe is! lol Sorry.
Just used a boring bar and made small passes, kept it to what would just allow the Sanyo B cell to fit, Efest high discharge cells won’t go in it. I wasn’t thinking or I wouldn’t have started it. The longer cell needed a spacer between the tube and head. This removed tube contact from the driver, so I had to put solder blobs on the driver ground ring then file them to clear the fat cell. Also had to remove the spring from the driver. And then I had to address the tail cap, solder blobs around the ground ring so the tube would contact. The spring is pressed flat, it’s a very snug fit without going to greater measures. I made a copper spacer ring on the lathe so I have a shiny copper ring between the head and tube on a green D4.
And as it so happens, the B cell I put in it for the 19.54A reading was at 78% charge level, so … charging it and will get a new reading, try to get a lumens reading, but am heading out to a rehearsal tonight for an event tomorrow… might be a couple of days before I can get back to readings…
Once again I’m in a position of not understanding.
I charged the B cell up and tested with my bigger clamp meter, 12.92A at the tail. Tested again with my smaller Uni-T and got 12.32 (falling, hit on the cell) Then I stuck it in the light box for a reading of 3657 lumens at start, falling.
I have no idea where or why the previous 19.54A reading. Not sure how I could stuff that up, but there it is.
Sorry about that. I find it kind of nice sometimes and kind of annoying at other times. With no clear right answer, I left it as-is. It’s easy to change in the firmware though, if you want.
I wasn’t really expecting this thread to hit four digits. It’s not a big long group project like the Q8; it’s just a review and a few days worth of development. Was planning for most of the discussion to happen in Hank’s D4 thread, but he was having difficulties with the Great Firewall of China and couldn’t post for a while.
I really appreciate the feedback everyone has given though. At least half the things I changed were because people made requests. Like, I hadn’t really considered adding a channel-switch blink, but it was a good idea that I find useful.
As it turns out, I’m in the middle of building a color quad light… but not with a FET. It’s using a dozen 7135 chips instead. It’s only 1A per emitter, but that should be plenty for my purposes.
That’s kind of what the FW3A is about. The D4 might not have quite enough room (depth) for 7135 chips on the back side of the driver. It would be nice to have FET+N+1 instead of FET+1, but I find most of my use is on just the +1… so it’s mostly a theoretical upgrade for me.
I’m definitely not the type who goes through multiple 18650 cells in a single night. Usually it takes me at least a month per charge, even on 1xAA or 1x16340 lights.
Just received my grey nichia and wow. I’m new to the world of led flashlights and this covers a lot of firsts for me. First 18650 light, first quad, first pocket hot rod. This thing is amazing, it’s so bright it’s like having a little piece of the sun in your pocket - heat wise too.
It’s actually much smaller than I expected. I bought the 18500 tube for edc but don’t think I’ll need it.
Nah, it’ll probably be easier to not get sucked in, knowing that almost everything else will be a disappointment compared to this. There’s basically nothing on the market yet which gets anywhere near the lumens-per-cubic-centimeter ratio of this one.
Of course, you’ll still need a thrower… and a compact thrower… and a keychain light… and maybe that one with the magnetic ring… and that pretty copper light… and…
Thats great stuff Dale, a would defo be up for a 20700 tube if hank ever decided to add. I think it would complement the light perfectly :+1:
Till then, i will just have to have 2x vtc6 or vtc5 or 30Q(or any 2 of) as spare/back up with/on me ! The amazing work gone into this little beast is outstanding. I have a few very special lights(to me) in my collection, the D4 is certainly one of them…………………and to top it all, the actual cheapest of them. I honestly think you can not buy a better light out of the box for $40…………………(subjective of course, just IMO).
Thanks to all who help create one of the best lights on the planet :+1:
I’ve been holding off this purchase for sooo looong. Keep trying to convince myself that it really is only another +–600lm light (after a min. Or so based on tests done 2 pages back).
Will have a tall one when i get home tonight and decide. Im sure it will be easier to hit that buy button then
Its sure fun for 15s though Seriously though, it makes for a great compact 18650 EDC light, nice useful beam but with a bonus of having a multi cell light output……….that fits in your pocket.
I thought in ways like that with the m43vn, 11k lumens short lived(30 seconds or so), but how many 11k lights that can be slipped into a coat pocket with ease. Still use 3000lm for long duration’s, but that 11k on tap if/when needed never grow old for me.
You wont regret it, it will become a fav in seconds………literally. In fact the problem will be on how many more to get
Love these 2 lights, masterpieces imho
It’s a bit like getting a Zebralight SC600Fd Mk III Plus… only a lot brighter, with a more intuitive UI, available in more colors / tints, more mod-friendly, and on sale for 60% off. Just without quite as much runtime or a clip.
I wonder if anyone has tried a SC600 clip on the D4. It looks like it should be just about right…
Here’s some scope shots of the output. Measured optically OTF. Most of them links not to clutter the thread too much. Used a slightly discharged 18650GA and there probably was some throttling going on.
