TK's Emisar D4 review

Unscrewing the tailcap only very slightly already locks the D4 out because contact between tube and tail-pcb is broken, it is not needed to break contact between battery and spring. It works very reliably and is not even dependent on intact anodisation so when that wears out the lock-out still works.

Good enough for me :slight_smile:

Definitely, thank you.

Fact.

The Nichia 5000K tint is a bit cooler than I expected. Compared to a few of my other “neutral whites” this feels more on the cooler side. Not a complaint just an observation. Actually when I put them side by side, the Nichia feels the most “neutral” while other “neutrals” feel slightly warmer. I’m starting to like warmer tints so I might have to pick up an XP-G2 5D next.
My only complaint it that the anodization on my 18500 tube is already scratched from inserting and removing the Convoy clip. I guess I can’t expect too much from a $5 tube. Might have to sand down the entire groove to make it look better.

Is a zero shown as something similar to half a blink?
At least I suspect that to be the case on mine.

Has anyone thought of building a flashlight with a phase change heat sink?

https://www.1-act.com/led-thermal-management/

Something that would contact the smooth outside of the light and carry heat away from it (better than your hand) would be useful.
Swords with gauntlet hilts that wrap outside of the grip area illustrate how it could work.
https://www.google.com/search?q=gauntlet+hilt+sword&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiejeX8rNLVAhUJi1QKHUUyC-IQ_AUICygC&biw=1106&bih=830#imgrc=zr9y3GNnmppEnM:

Here are some modern-tech designs: http://www.windrosearmoury.com/zc/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=71

That’s what I suspect as well. Got 50 a couple of times and 51 was clearly different.

I took D4 for a short walk (buying flashlights is good for health!), have some things to report.

  1. Like said already many times, knurling is missing.
  2. I noticed a quirk in the UI. If I ramp the light up to a fairly high level, wait for thermal management to restrain it an start ramping again, I expect the light to smoothly change output. It jumps to the previously set level and starts ramping from that.
  3. A weird software bug:
    Sometimes the light doesn’t notice that I cut off the power. It doesn’t blink on power-on and doesn’t reset mode to 350 mA. Happened twice accidentally, I couldn’t reproduce. Then after playing some I tried to do it again and it happened: there were no blinks. But then I noticed more: now I can reproduce it at will, it happens every time. I think this may be because I have not turned the light on since it happened, there’s some flash state that makes the light not notice and turning it on resets that.
  4. I like the tint.
  5. Very floody, but still less than I was afraid of.
  6. Everybody knows it, but the output is good. :slight_smile:

I thought about that. There could be a minor LED temperature improvement by replacing solid trays with vapor chambers. Or actually large portions of head. It could also make powerful lights (D4 counts) slightly shorter. Likely too expensive to be worthwhile.
You could use heat pipes to spread heat over large heatsinks. It could make them more effective, making monster lights a bit brighter.
You could also use something like paraffin wax to increase thermal capacity and thus increase turbo duration.

wondering if anyone really only spent $40? Add batteries, spare tubes…. :wink:

Ha ha good point! Well i spent $42 with the tracking , think I may be the only one with no 18350/18500 tube though………….for me the 18650 is compact enough and it eats through one of those fast enough :open_mouth:

:+1:

Same here, only standard 18650 format. But I did get all three colours though. Interestingly I like all three colours, and I’m glad I got them all.

18650 only for me as well. It does eat juice like its free. small enough to loose already!

Also, we’ve got 3 reviews on MTN!!!

Yes one of them is mine…(pops collar) :wink:

Mtn was out of Green 18350 tubes last week.I hope they they get some in soon so i can try out these new aspire 18350’s i have.

Well, the heat sinks made for RC engines would clamp onto the smooth flashlight surface, with a dab of thermal goop:

https://www.google.com/search?q=model+engine+heat+sink+clamp

I wonder if there’s a way to use the waste heat — does anybody make micro- or nano-sized Stirling engines?

Yikes let’s keep it PG.

lol! :smiley:

Can this take Olight batteries?

I would stick with unprotected flat tops. Keep your springs in good shape.

From OP

Maximum cell length: 67 mm
(protected cells may not fit)

Battery: One 18650, 18500, 14500, 18350, or 16340 cell (with matching tube)

From me
goofy proprietary cells designed to not work in normal lights (no)