Thanks. I’ve got some 30q button tops on the way for this light.
I walked around with it running two 30q cells last night, and even after 10 mins on turbo, I could still hold it in my hand. Not sure if it would have gotten any hotter running on 3 cells. Outside temp was in the 60s F.
One thing I’ve noticed is that visually there isn’t much difference between high and turbo.
Has anyone been able to measure actual current draw at various modes?
I am not sure how much different between High and Turbo in your light with 2x18650, in my case not much but noticeable.
I will measure the current when i got the chance and report back.
Thanks. Since this light does not have a traditional tail cap, I’m not sure how to go about measuring current.
This is the result, but bear in mind since the driver is using boost topology it doesn’t reflect emitter current.
I was using a single Samsung 30Q.
low = 0.19A
mid1 = 0.57A
mid2 = 1.5A
High = 2.8A - 3A
Turbo = 6A(start) 6.15A(few seconds afterwards)
On high and turbo the amp draw steadily climbs this reflect current regulation to the emitter to maintain stable emitters current. in lower mode should be the same but not that visible since the battery doesn’t sags as much.
It is interesting though, with some basic math on turbo with boost driver efficiency of 80% the emitter probably get around 1.4A.
Thanks! Would you mind telling how you attach your DMM to measure this?
what i did was removed the green board at the tail-cap and use jumper wire from battery to the flashlight body and measure it with DC clamp meter.
Thank you!
Ugh… one of the springs fell off already. Hope that is not a sign of things to come.
Looks like I need to buy myself a soldering iron… 
what happened? i have done assembling disassembling battery tube and board many times during testing, nothing get undone so far. one thing that could unscrew probably driver retaining ring due to friction but it is still holding fine so far.
I dont know what happened. It just fell off.
Im thinking that me trying to squeeze in protected cells put a large strain on it and weakened it. But in my defense, there is no warning on haikelites page NOT to use protected cells.
Another question, does this light have any kind of low voltage protection?
I am sure the rest of the light would be ok once you fixed the tail spring, could be the protected cells but none of my protected cell is short enough to power the flashlight so i gave up on that.
I am not sure of the of low voltage protection it is not mentioned anywhere in the manual, but the ramp up and down thing when battery almost empty is not documented either, in my opinion that ramp up and down is a battery low indicator since i could reproduce it every time.
btw. i have asked Haikelite to answer some of the questions posted here.
Eventually the light cuts off at 3.0V according to this review: https://www.lilahand.de/2017/07/09/laufzeitdiagramme-haikelite-mt02-sc01-sc02/
Got it thank you.
btw. This what Haikelite said.
All haikelite lights have low voltage protection.
Ramp up and down is low battery indication signal.
So it is true that ramp down and up is a battery low indicator.
I re-soldered it last night. Let’s see if it holds up.
i opened mine too this both came from MT01 and MT02. freeme also had the same problem but with SC01 head spring.
re-soldered mine, also re-soldered them all around not one sided. There are few things that could contribute, the coating of the spring, Haikelite uses lead free solder or the solder is not flowed properly.
I will update this in main review.
What about Neutral white version?
I only found CW on BG
There is no MT02 NW, AFAIK.
I dont think NW is available for MT02. It is available for MT01.
At what distance do you do the test?
Using LX1330B meter at 12 feet distance I got 4300 lux, which converts to 57,525cd, so quite a bit less than what you got. This was with 3 fresh 30Q cells.
Tested at 4.8m. I’ll do the test again.