What did you BREAK today?

Dale, I hope you have health insurance. If so, how much did they cover out of that almost $101k?

Broke a Zaneflare F6 little brass 10180 light. Got it apart to find out it has the emitter board with components on the underside. Not emitter swappable for my level.
Put it back together and no workie. Its (Was) an ugly greenish tint. Good thing I only paid $5 for it. Really a useless light… Whistle does not work and is a waste of space making the light longer and heavier that it should be. The head design wastes space too. Really could have been a nice little light, in Brass. Almost as long as my AAA Olight I3E EOS Copper. For the $5 deal I bought more than one, makes this one a parts light. Managed to shorten another to a somewhat usable size…

Note to self: Always check the temperature setting before reflowing. :person_facepalming:

Didn’t quite break it, but gave my M1 a sizable crack to the lens. I didn’t set it down properly on the towel rack and it fell, and in my hurry to catch it I sent my hand hurtling down and only managed to slap it downwards to hit the ground even harder.

Look on the bottom right of the bezel:

Now I’m waiting for the replacement lenses. Simon is a real bro!

Yeesh. That happened to me once, in an office building. This crazy guy Hans Grüber busted a whole bunch of windows and I had to go across that floor… barefooty!

Ouch!

On the bright side, now you got a DTP board…

I was going to write that I “broke” an AT01 (true POS through and through… think they arrive broken), because the switch was going all mental and the thing was going bright, dim, strobe, stutter, etc., but I kindasorta “fixed” it, at least ’til I look at it crooked again.

Looks like a nice light, but it’s not. Avoid, avoid, avoid.

duh i damaged my Convoy S2+ by overdriving it :person_facepalming:

Wouldn’t that be “mod, mod, mod”? That said, I don’t know its base price.

intro:

Wheee!

So… no, no, no.

Broke my D4 driver, I think, when trying to remove it, unsuccessfully :cry: :person_facepalming: . Only other option is that I broke a switch wire in the process, which at least would be fixable. If not, well, I guess I now have 4x 5000k 219c 90+CRI emitters I have to find a new home to

This is a flashlight forum but I just light tipped over my french press & shattered it on my counter :person_facepalming: . I can’t find my spare anywhere. Thus no coffee in the morning for me :frowning:
Does that count?

You have my deepest condolences. When we lose a loved one here on earth, we gain an angel in heaven that watches over us.

I’ve broken so many of my one mug french presses, finally bought one with a bit thicker glass from Ikea and it has lasted me 6 months so far.

Back to flashlights: I think I broke my mtn fet+7135 driver while trying to solder it to a pill. First three modes are now the same and super dim and then the next 3 go back to how it was before. No idea why I only lost the first 3 modes. Going to take it out and see if something came unsoldered.

I just got my two Astrolux S42 lights which I plan on doing driver replacements. On opening the first one I broke the legs of the optics and shaved off the domes of the LEDs. That nice Nichia tint is now horrible blue… I was a lot more careful on opening the second :smiley:

Mike C, that looks like the scene of a terrible accident! :cry:

How did I not see this thread until today?

While trying to file down the retaining ring to fit the TA driver from Lexel, i just might have applied somewhat to much force and the retaining ring just snapped!

I believe I actually broke this 3 weeks ago when I attempted the "Mod 2" on my Supfire M6, but I figured it out today (I had to put it away because I was sad when it didn't work and I couldn't figure out why).

Guess I only broke the 105c board. I already knew my soldering iron was too hot for flashlight modding (I accidentally reflowed an emitter when attaching leads to a noctigon...), but now I really need to get a new one. The Supfire M6 is now brighter than my D4, but still has the old annoying modes!

(For reference, this is after I removed it. The sw+ wire should attach there, to the missing star 3. When I had the board installed, the light didn't function at all.)

This is not my first accident with the tir optics…

Hello To all, My reason to join you guys here...

I just broke my week old new OPUS BT-C100 today by insering a charged 18650 reversed.

Sadly I found out that it definitely is not fool proof. The latest fool being me.

It does not have reverse voltage protection....

It still comes on when powered but does not charge as the Q19 is badly fried.

Seems fixable by replacing Q19 but the markings on the Q19 is not ledgable in its fried state so I need you guys’ help to find the part number.

The location of the poor little guy is shown in the link below...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/eeh5uth4uuqllod/You_Doodle_Pro_2018-08-08T21_32_52Z.JPG?dl=0

AND don’t remove the board from the frame frame of the charger for any reason, you would not want to tak a chance and ruin your disolay connector

Cheers and

Thanks