TK's Emisar D4 review

A heat shield between the head (of the flashlight) and the (human) head could be a cool touchā€¦

I donā€™t know why I canā€™t see them without doing ā€œView Sourceā€ but the links in Khasā€™s post #1213 are:


and


This light is an instant classic! I doubt anyone is on the fence with it, but if soā€¦ itā€™s certainly worth the money! Premium build/feel, fantastic UI, thereā€™s nothing bad here.
Love that the ramp stops at the end of its travel rather than loop around again. Easy to start on low or last level used.

Some features I would pay more for: magnetic tailcap and a battery tube or tailcap with raised section for a clip, like the TK20 or Zebralights. A solid clip like that is worth the effort and money.
Because of the 3pc design the tailcap or battery tube could be sold as an accessory or replace the standard part for a different model.

Itā€™s sold as a bright light but it would be nice if we could set set the max so itā€™s not even there in the ramp, set the max to whatever you want your brightest to be and thatā€™s now the max level. Just like an alcoholic needs to keep alcohol out of their house, having that high at hand is so tempting. 12 steps clicks would be an appropriate location for setting it.

Either way this thing is a gem. The UI is quick and fun to use, much faster to find a level than I expected.

Kudos to all involved in development of this light!

question por favor. Can this light destroy itself in any way? What is the default on the thermal config? I turned my light on max and let it run. I counted to at least 30 I recall and there was no step-down. I turned it off, didnā€™t want to fry anything. It would have stepped down eventually, right? Thanks.

The v1 lights had a 45-second delay between step-downs, IIRC. V2 is only 4 seconds. If itā€™s v2 (has the reference blink in the ramp), it probably should have stepped down within 30 seconds unless it was using a weak cell.

What battery was used saypat and was it fully charged?

The step downs are obvious due to the high output and to where it has to get down to ,for controlling the heat. I get to around 12-15s before my 219c starts backing off, as even then the heat is still increasing fast. Very very clever ! Love it :slight_smile:

thanks TK and ven. It was an Aspire cell, not quite fully charged. I may have been counting fast. What thermal config is best to optimally protect the light? Thanks.

Last night I took it camping.

  1. I find the moonlight mode too bright. I guess making it configurable would be welcome by some
  2. I missed a lanyard hole. But will probably manufacture some strap for it instead.
  3. Has anyone found a diffuser that would work with it?

3mmā€¦so close and yet so farā€¦
According to CRX :
Tail PCB + spring are 2.2 mm. A custom insert shaped like a bucket with a nub inside could reduce it to like 0.6 mm.
Endcap is 2.54 mm thick. Removing some material should make it possible to fit 20700 without a spacer. But thatā€™s quite a lot of work for such modā€¦

I picked up a couple of D4,s with XPL-HI V3 1A and i am very happy with the lights.

I got mine from the international outdoor store and they were delivered in 12 days - free delivery, which is good.

I like every thing about the lights from its excellent quality fit and finish, anodizing and unique and well thought out UI.

The tint is identical with both, a nice white tint with a slight touch of magenta. They are incredibly bright little lights.

Well done to every one involved in the D4,s creation - highly recommended.

i am tempted to get a second one especially the XP-L version. I prefer the rosy tint of the XP-L instead of the Nichia white. in fact i like the nichia 218 in my S41 than the 219 inside the D4.

As resourceful as DB Custom has been on p35 and p40, is there any update on an official 21700 tube for the Emisar D4? 4000 lumens on a Panasonic / Sanyo NCR20700B and 4500 lumens on a Panasonic / Sanyo NCR20700A is intriguing! Will be interesting to see the latter tested against the Samsung SDI INR21700-30T and LG Chem H30. Hopefully the rubber rings on the Nitecore HC30 headstart, as modelled by BeardedRaleigh, will be able to stretch to accommodate the extra 5mm diameter.

Sorry for late reply.
Something wrong with your meteor. You can turn on battery warning, it blinking when voltage drop more than 0.5V. You also can disassemble tail and clean all contact. I have this problem approximately every 6 month.

Thanks for the graphics, they are show why I like cc driver and donā€™t like direct drive)

Yes, I find the XP-G2 4000k and the XP-L 5000k much preferable in tint over the 219c.

I bought and own all 3 versions so I could compare.

I love the 3D tint on my xpg2 version

Finally received both the Nichia and XPL HI D4s today! :partying_face:

I Quickly took the picture that needed to be shot: Those three lights put out about the same amount of light - good old SRK triple Fandyfire UV-S5, DQG Tiny 26650 3rd and Emisar D4 18350.

My very first impressions: tiny, beautiful mate finish, no brainer and smooth UI, bright bright bright and gets burning hot faster then my soldering ironā€¦

ā€¦ keeping the thread rolling :slight_smile:

Just got my second one. This time a green xp-g2 3D. Love the green color but absolutely hate the tint. No rosiness, only purple and blueā€¦ This canā€™t be normal with this LEDs, right?

Edit: Iā€™m talking about the corona. The hotspot is yellow.

I am holding myself to buy one because even though it offers good choices of tints (thank you for pointing them out) I need high cri (R9080). I hope we will see NVSL219BT-V1 option available to purchase. Do the producer of this light know that there is a demand for high cri version?

Just checked mine for you. I see differences between the hotspot and corona (yellow, and purple) when standing 50cm from a white wall. If I move to 150cm all is nice and neutral. Compared it to my 2014 Eagletac D25 nichia 219b 5000k and the tint is almost identical.

Maybe you can post a picture for us.