TK's Emisar D4 review

What battery was used saypat and was it fully charged?

The step downs are obvious due to the high output and to where it has to get down to ,for controlling the heat. I get to around 12-15s before my 219c starts backing off, as even then the heat is still increasing fast. Very very clever ! Love it :slight_smile:

thanks TK and ven. It was an Aspire cell, not quite fully charged. I may have been counting fast. What thermal config is best to optimally protect the light? Thanks.

Last night I took it camping.

  1. I find the moonlight mode too bright. I guess making it configurable would be welcome by some
  2. I missed a lanyard hole. But will probably manufacture some strap for it instead.
  3. Has anyone found a diffuser that would work with it?

3mm…so close and yet so far…
According to CRX :
Tail PCB + spring are 2.2 mm. A custom insert shaped like a bucket with a nub inside could reduce it to like 0.6 mm.
Endcap is 2.54 mm thick. Removing some material should make it possible to fit 20700 without a spacer. But that’s quite a lot of work for such mod…

I picked up a couple of D4,s with XPL-HI V3 1A and i am very happy with the lights.

I got mine from the international outdoor store and they were delivered in 12 days - free delivery, which is good.

I like every thing about the lights from its excellent quality fit and finish, anodizing and unique and well thought out UI.

The tint is identical with both, a nice white tint with a slight touch of magenta. They are incredibly bright little lights.

Well done to every one involved in the D4,s creation - highly recommended.

i am tempted to get a second one especially the XP-L version. I prefer the rosy tint of the XP-L instead of the Nichia white. in fact i like the nichia 218 in my S41 than the 219 inside the D4.

As resourceful as DB Custom has been on p35 and p40, is there any update on an official 21700 tube for the Emisar D4? 4000 lumens on a Panasonic / Sanyo NCR20700B and 4500 lumens on a Panasonic / Sanyo NCR20700A is intriguing! Will be interesting to see the latter tested against the Samsung SDI INR21700-30T and LG Chem H30. Hopefully the rubber rings on the Nitecore HC30 headstart, as modelled by BeardedRaleigh, will be able to stretch to accommodate the extra 5mm diameter.

Sorry for late reply.
Something wrong with your meteor. You can turn on battery warning, it blinking when voltage drop more than 0.5V. You also can disassemble tail and clean all contact. I have this problem approximately every 6 month.

Thanks for the graphics, they are show why I like cc driver and don’t like direct drive)

Yes, I find the XP-G2 4000k and the XP-L 5000k much preferable in tint over the 219c.

I bought and own all 3 versions so I could compare.

I love the 3D tint on my xpg2 version

Finally received both the Nichia and XPL HI D4s today! :partying_face:

I Quickly took the picture that needed to be shot: Those three lights put out about the same amount of light - good old SRK triple Fandyfire UV-S5, DQG Tiny 26650 3rd and Emisar D4 18350.

My very first impressions: tiny, beautiful mate finish, no brainer and smooth UI, bright bright bright and gets burning hot faster then my soldering iron…

… keeping the thread rolling :slight_smile:

Just got my second one. This time a green xp-g2 3D. Love the green color but absolutely hate the tint. No rosiness, only purple and blue… This can’t be normal with this LEDs, right?

Edit: I’m talking about the corona. The hotspot is yellow.

I am holding myself to buy one because even though it offers good choices of tints (thank you for pointing them out) I need high cri (R9080). I hope we will see NVSL219BT-V1 option available to purchase. Do the producer of this light know that there is a demand for high cri version?

Just checked mine for you. I see differences between the hotspot and corona (yellow, and purple) when standing 50cm from a white wall. If I move to 150cm all is nice and neutral. Compared it to my 2014 Eagletac D25 nichia 219b 5000k and the tint is almost identical.

Maybe you can post a picture for us.

Remembering, as TK and Clemence have both pointed out, HiCri fidelity occurs at a predetermined current level.
Overdriven, the tint goes far away from the ANSI BBL….

Curious enough to try 4 x Nichia 219BT 4000K. sw40, 93 Cri 9050 leds in my D4,
………when overdriven, the output produces way more magenta than a normal driven sw45,
enough to make a normally driven (pinkish) triple with leds from the same reel appear greenish when compared side by side.

If you want a side switch noPWM triple for your Nichias, the MecArmy PT 10, 14, 16, and 18 series keeps the tint faithful.

Maybe that’s why they do not provide hi-cri version. Thank you for the information, I now remember the case about overdriven hicri leds. It looks like I will wait for new hi cri led :smiley:

The 219c 4000k may fair well or better than the 219b when harder driven………………Is towards yellow on my samples(dont mind it myself though)

That sounds normal to me, typical of a lot of the emitters that try a mix of phosphors over the blue base layer for higher color rendering.
Remember the base layer is blue, it’s the blue photons that excite the phosphors which re-emit the energy as various wavelength of red to yellower light.
The published spectra show several peaks from the phosphors:

https://www.google.com/search?q=high+CRI+led+spectrum
and look at the images

Getting the right mix of the right phosphorescent chemicals is the art of designing the higher CRI LEDs.
Getting phosphors that don’t degrade with time or flake off is also part of their art.

The focus is using the light from the face of the phosphor, to make the hotspot.

The light coming sideways off the base layer — there’s always some — will show up in the less focused corona and will be more bluish.,

You can use a different Carclo quad optic with diffusion built in. Or put DC-Fix on the lens. Both work.

You mean, you like the 219b more than the 219c? That’s fair — the 219b had more of a rosy tint. However, it also has much lower maximum output… particularly when limited to the current which produces the best tint. A quad 219b configured to optimize tint would probably make about 1600 lm at 6-8 A. Maxed out completely, it might make up to 2400 lm at 14 A. A quad 219c could theoretically make up to about 4800 lm at 24 A.

One of my nicest-looking lights is a triple 219b at just one amp per emitter. It makes only 800 lm, but it’s 800 very nice lumens.

It’d be nice to see a D4 with 219c at 4500k and 90+ CRI. That seems like more of a true neutral, halfway between warm white and cool white.

Cree emitters tend to put out different tints at different angles. So does Nichia, to a much lesser extent. To get a beam with a consistent tint, you’ll need a diffused optic to blend different parts of the beam together.