Note to self: Always check the temperature setting before reflowing. :person_facepalming:
Didnât quite break it, but gave my M1 a sizable crack to the lens. I didnât set it down properly on the towel rack and it fell, and in my hurry to catch it I sent my hand hurtling down and only managed to slap it downwards to hit the ground even harder.
Look on the bottom right of the bezel:
Now Iâm waiting for the replacement lenses. Simon is a real bro!
Yeesh. That happened to me once, in an office building. This crazy guy Hans Grßber busted a whole bunch of windows and I had to go across that floor⌠barefooty!
Ouch!
On the bright side, now you got a DTP boardâŚ
I was going to write that I âbrokeâ an AT01 (true POS through and through⌠think they arrive broken), because the switch was going all mental and the thing was going bright, dim, strobe, stutter, etc., but I kindasorta âfixedâ it, at least âtil I look at it crooked again.
Looks like a nice light, but itâs not. Avoid, avoid, avoid.
duh i damaged my Convoy S2+ by overdriving it :person_facepalming:
Wouldnât that be âmod, mod, modâ? That said, I donât know its base price.
intro:
Wheee!
So⌠no, no, no.
Broke my D4 driver, I think, when trying to remove it, unsuccessfully :cry: :person_facepalming: . Only other option is that I broke a switch wire in the process, which at least would be fixable. If not, well, I guess I now have 4x 5000k 219c 90+CRI emitters I have to find a new home to
This is a flashlight forum but I just light tipped over my french press & shattered it on my counter :person_facepalming: . I canât find my spare anywhere. Thus no coffee in the morning for me 
Does that count?
You have my deepest condolences. When we lose a loved one here on earth, we gain an angel in heaven that watches over us.
Iâve broken so many of my one mug french presses, finally bought one with a bit thicker glass from Ikea and it has lasted me 6 months so far.
Back to flashlights: I think I broke my mtn fet+7135 driver while trying to solder it to a pill. First three modes are now the same and super dim and then the next 3 go back to how it was before. No idea why I only lost the first 3 modes. Going to take it out and see if something came unsoldered.
I just got my two Astrolux S42 lights which I plan on doing driver replacements. On opening the first one I broke the legs of the optics and shaved off the domes of the LEDs. That nice Nichia tint is now horrible blue⌠I was a lot more careful on opening the second 
Mike C, that looks like the scene of a terrible accident! :cry:
How did I not see this thread until today?
While trying to file down the retaining ring to fit the TA driver from Lexel, i just might have applied somewhat to much force and the retaining ring just snapped!
I believe I actually broke this 3 weeks ago when I attempted the "Mod 2" on my Supfire M6, but I figured it out today (I had to put it away because I was sad when it didn't work and I couldn't figure out why).
Guess I only broke the 105c board. I already knew my soldering iron was too hot for flashlight modding (I accidentally reflowed an emitter when attaching leads to a noctigon...), but now I really need to get a new one. The Supfire M6 is now brighter than my D4, but still has the old annoying modes!
(For reference, this is after I removed it. The sw+ wire should attach there, to the missing star 3. When I had the board installed, the light didn't function at all.)
This is not my first accident with the tir optics⌠
Hello To all, My reason to join you guys here...
I just broke my week old new OPUS BT-C100 today by insering a charged 18650 reversed.
Sadly I found out that it definitely is not fool proof. The latest fool being me.
It does not have reverse voltage protection....
It still comes on when powered but does not charge as the Q19 is badly fried.
Seems fixable by replacing Q19 but the markings on the Q19 is not ledgable in its fried state so I need you guysâ help to find the part number.
The location of the poor little guy is shown in the link below...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/eeh5uth4uuqllod/You_Doodle_Pro_2018-08-08T21_32_52Z.JPG?dl=0
AND donât remove the board from the frame frame of the charger for any reason, you would not want to tak a chance and ruin your disolay connector
Cheers and
Thanks
I was removing a MJD41C power transistor (DPAK) from a CCA so I could test it out-of-circuit. The CCA was conformal coated. I had to remove the conformal coating before I could unsolder the part. Next I had to gently lift the emitter and base leads. Next I heat up the collector tab and the transistor slides off the board. I removed the conformal coating, then I went to gently lift the base lead. I lifted the base lead along with half the transistor attached to it. I killed the transistor so I couldnât test it. So much for that. This was sort of sad because the transistor was doing some interesting things that I didnât understand. I really wanted to take a look at the transistor on the curve tracer. This may have been a missed opportunity to learn something new.
OOpsâŚ
Itâs not something I broke, but I just got the news that a close friend of mine that I havenât seen in 25 some odd years since he moved to Florida in 1988 has passed away. I did see him around in 1993 when I had to fly down there on a service call, but ever since then, it was only phone calls once or twice a week. Iâm really feeling bad right now. I met him in 1971 and we became instant audiophile friends. Life is short my friends. Enjoy it while you can. One other thing, we worked in the same stereo store as technicans around 1980. He was the best tech Iâve ever known. RIP Dave, Iâll never forget you pal.