i am tempted to get a second one especially the XP-L version. I prefer the rosy tint of the XP-L instead of the Nichia white. in fact i like the nichia 218 in my S41 than the 219 inside the D4.
As resourceful as DB Custom has been on p35 and p40, is there any update on an official 21700 tube for the Emisar D4? 4000 lumens on a Panasonic / Sanyo NCR20700B and 4500 lumens on a Panasonic / Sanyo NCR20700A is intriguing! Will be interesting to see the latter tested against the Samsung SDI INR21700-30T and LG Chem H30. Hopefully the rubber rings on the Nitecore HC30 headstart, as modelled by BeardedRaleigh, will be able to stretch to accommodate the extra 5mm diameter.
Sorry for late reply.
Something wrong with your meteor. You can turn on battery warning, it blinking when voltage drop more than 0.5V. You also can disassemble tail and clean all contact. I have this problem approximately every 6 month.
Thanks for the graphics, they are show why I like cc driver and donāt like direct drive)
Finally received both the Nichia and XPL HI D4s today! :partying_face:
I Quickly took the picture that needed to be shot: Those three lights put out about the same amount of light - good old SRK triple Fandyfire UV-S5, DQG Tiny 26650 3rd and Emisar D4 18350.
My very first impressions: tiny, beautiful mate finish, no brainer and smooth UI, bright bright bright and gets burning hot faster then my soldering ironā¦
Just got my second one. This time a green xp-g2 3D. Love the green color but absolutely hate the tint. No rosiness, only purple and blueā¦ This canāt be normal with this LEDs, right?
Edit: Iām talking about the corona. The hotspot is yellow.
I am holding myself to buy one because even though it offers good choices of tints (thank you for pointing them out) I need high cri (R9080). I hope we will see NVSL219BT-V1 option available to purchase. Do the producer of this light know that there is a demand for high cri version?
Just checked mine for you. I see differences between the hotspot and corona (yellow, and purple) when standing 50cm from a white wall. If I move to 150cm all is nice and neutral. Compared it to my 2014 Eagletac D25 nichia 219b 5000k and the tint is almost identical.
Remembering, as TK and Clemence have both pointed out, HiCri fidelity occurs at a predetermined current level.
Overdriven, the tint goes far away from the ANSI BBLā¦.
Curious enough to try 4 x Nichia 219BT 4000K. sw40, 93 Cri 9050 leds in my D4,
ā¦ā¦ā¦when overdriven, the output produces way more magenta than a normal driven sw45,
enough to make a normally driven (pinkish) triple with leds from the same reel appear greenish when compared side by side.
If you want a side switch noPWM triple for your Nichias, the MecArmy PT 10, 14, 16, and 18 series keeps the tint faithful.
Maybe thatās why they do not provide hi-cri version. Thank you for the information, I now remember the case about overdriven hicri leds. It looks like I will wait for new hi cri led
That sounds normal to me, typical of a lot of the emitters that try a mix of phosphors over the blue base layer for higher color rendering.
Remember the base layer is blue, itās the blue photons that excite the phosphors which re-emit the energy as various wavelength of red to yellower light.
The published spectra show several peaks from the phosphors:
Getting the right mix of the right phosphorescent chemicals is the art of designing the higher CRI LEDs.
Getting phosphors that donāt degrade with time or flake off is also part of their art.
The focus is using the light from the face of the phosphor, to make the hotspot.
The light coming sideways off the base layer ā thereās always some ā will show up in the less focused corona and will be more bluish.,
You can use a different Carclo quad optic with diffusion built in. Or put DC-Fix on the lens. Both work.
You mean, you like the 219b more than the 219c? Thatās fair ā the 219b had more of a rosy tint. However, it also has much lower maximum outputā¦ particularly when limited to the current which produces the best tint. A quad 219b configured to optimize tint would probably make about 1600 lm at 6-8 A. Maxed out completely, it might make up to 2400 lm at 14 A. A quad 219c could theoretically make up to about 4800 lm at 24 A.
One of my nicest-looking lights is a triple 219b at just one amp per emitter. It makes only 800 lm, but itās 800 very nice lumens.
Itād be nice to see a D4 with 219c at 4500k and 90+ CRI. That seems like more of a true neutral, halfway between warm white and cool white.
Cree emitters tend to put out different tints at different angles. So does Nichia, to a much lesser extent. To get a beam with a consistent tint, youāll need a diffused optic to blend different parts of the beam together.
Agree, bought S4 5D and immediately put a frosted optic on it.
You may want to stay away from the XP-G3 under an Optic.
I forget the tint but ordered an XP-G3 triple board from Mtnā¦ Tested it under an optic before install. My reaction was, thatās quite the rainbow! Put every Carclo I had over it including Frosted. That board went back into the bag, in the parts bin.
XP-L HI does not give that same effect.
I will eventually swap out the G2ās in that light. Just undecidedā¦ to what.
I do have a new Mtn quad board with 319AT but not unless I get an 18350 tube and some Aspire batts to calm it down a bit.
I canāt say that it did 100% but it helped a lot. Definitely less blue/purple but still kinda pinkish like a 219B with a yellow spot.
Carclo are also noted for the artifacts, mostly noticed as you spin the light. Frosted also removes most of that too.
The frosted quad I have from Mtn. is a medium spot, 10623 Carclo. So it will be wider pattern than original.
Ok, thatās good to hear. Only thing that matters is that the blue/purple disappears. Do you know if itās available for purchase in Asia/Europe? Shipping is too much from the states for me.