TK's Emisar D4 review

Maybe that’s why they do not provide hi-cri version. Thank you for the information, I now remember the case about overdriven hicri leds. It looks like I will wait for new hi cri led :smiley:

The 219c 4000k may fair well or better than the 219b when harder driven………………Is towards yellow on my samples(dont mind it myself though)

That sounds normal to me, typical of a lot of the emitters that try a mix of phosphors over the blue base layer for higher color rendering.
Remember the base layer is blue, it’s the blue photons that excite the phosphors which re-emit the energy as various wavelength of red to yellower light.
The published spectra show several peaks from the phosphors:

https://www.google.com/search?q=high+CRI+led+spectrum
and look at the images

Getting the right mix of the right phosphorescent chemicals is the art of designing the higher CRI LEDs.
Getting phosphors that don’t degrade with time or flake off is also part of their art.

The focus is using the light from the face of the phosphor, to make the hotspot.

The light coming sideways off the base layer — there’s always some — will show up in the less focused corona and will be more bluish.,

You can use a different Carclo quad optic with diffusion built in. Or put DC-Fix on the lens. Both work.

You mean, you like the 219b more than the 219c? That’s fair — the 219b had more of a rosy tint. However, it also has much lower maximum output… particularly when limited to the current which produces the best tint. A quad 219b configured to optimize tint would probably make about 1600 lm at 6-8 A. Maxed out completely, it might make up to 2400 lm at 14 A. A quad 219c could theoretically make up to about 4800 lm at 24 A.

One of my nicest-looking lights is a triple 219b at just one amp per emitter. It makes only 800 lm, but it’s 800 very nice lumens.

It’d be nice to see a D4 with 219c at 4500k and 90+ CRI. That seems like more of a true neutral, halfway between warm white and cool white.

Cree emitters tend to put out different tints at different angles. So does Nichia, to a much lesser extent. To get a beam with a consistent tint, you’ll need a diffused optic to blend different parts of the beam together.

Agree, bought S4 5D and immediately put a frosted optic on it.
You may want to stay away from the XP-G3 under an Optic.
I forget the tint but ordered an XP-G3 triple board from Mtn… Tested it under an optic before install. My reaction was, that’s quite the rainbow! Put every Carclo I had over it including Frosted. That board went back into the bag, in the parts bin.
XP-L HI does not give that same effect.
I will eventually swap out the G2’s in that light. Just undecided… to what.
I do have a new Mtn quad board with 319AT but not unless I get an 18350 tube and some Aspire batts to calm it down a bit.

Thanks for the explanation guys!

Vwpieces, did the frosted optic completely remove the purple corona?

I can’t say that it did 100% but it helped a lot. Definitely less blue/purple but still kinda pinkish like a 219B with a yellow spot.
Carclo are also noted for the artifacts, mostly noticed as you spin the light. Frosted also removes most of that too.
The frosted quad I have from Mtn. is a medium spot, 10623 Carclo. So it will be wider pattern than original.

Ok, that’s good to hear. Only thing that matters is that the blue/purple disappears. Do you know if it’s available for purchase in Asia/Europe? Shipping is too much from the states for me.

Even in Sweden :slight_smile:

https://m.conrad.se/LED-optik-Carclo-Frostad-Matt-25.9~~�-Antal-LED:er~~(max.):–4.htm?websale8=conrad-swe.01-aa-m&pi=183236&ci=SHOP_AREA_26436_0212362

Fantastic! Thanks a lot, Geuzzz!

A few comments about the ramping UI:

I like how smooth and fast it reacts and that the current level stays in memory for the next turn on. However if i set the light to some mid level i like and next use the shortcut to moon for instance (long press from off) and turn the light off, the next time it will also start on moon with a single click - the memorized mid level has been ‘erased’ by moon, even though i didn’t use ramping. Same thing if i fired a quick burst of max output (double click from off) and turned off without ramping. Next time it turns on at max level which may be unexpected and quite annoying.

In both case, the memorized level was forgotten and one of the shortcut has become redundant. I would have expected the memory to persist until some ramping occur.

Another suggestion i would make would be to have an option to limit ramping to a level that the light can at least sustain for a few minutes without stepping down or becoming ridiculously (and possibly dangerously) hot. It’s actually too easy to go overboard with this light. On most lights with a turbo mode of some sort, you have to do something special to trigger it - at least click through the other modes for instance.

So… there happens to be a fairly popular 219B FET quad: the Astrolux S41. I have one, and I notice a distinct shift to a much cooler tint after a second or two on max with a Sony VTC6. I don’t see the shift with an LG HG2 or Samsung 30Q. Output was 2272 lumens at power on with the VTC6 and more like 2000 with other batteries.

The D4 has significantly lower resistance than the S41. That means more current, and the 219B won’t respond in a good way to that. Tint will get cooler, CRI will get worse and the emitters may be damaged. A 219B D4 without adding a resistor to the circuit doesn’t seem like a good idea to me. 219Cs do come in 90 CRI though, and they still have nice tint and CRI when driven crazy hard. Some do prefer the tint of the 219B (I’m one of them), but the 219C is getting tint deviation bins, so it’ll be possible to order more rosy versions.

anybody using one of the mtn quad boards with xpl -hi how is the output.any dropoff from hte original d4 mcpcb?

Yeah that was one thing I did not know about 219b. As you and ToyKeeper have pointed out, it seems for high cri 219c 4500k 90CRI is the best option. But the bad thing is that it is not available. I do not know why they went with 82 cri 219c. Is it because of cost or availability of leds?

For the tint, I think the reason behind 219b’s beautiful rosy tint is its high R9 value. I do not think 219c can achieve this tint without that high R9 value.

219Bs in R9050 are usually a bit on the rosy side, and the R9080 in 4000K is reportedly not nearly as rosy as the 4500K. 219Cs in R9050 that I’ve seen so far aren’t rosy at all, however, Clemence reports that tint deviation binning is coming to the 219C and it will be possible to order bins that are more rosy or at least less green.

I have no insight in to why Hank chose the emitters he did. The 219C is widely available in 4000K R9050, which is used in production lights from Reylight, Kaidomain, Eagletac, Manker and others. It comes in other color temperatures and R9050 too, but the only one I’ve heard of in a production light is 5000K in the Astrolux S41. Clemence sells a number of color temperatures, so it’s not like they’re impossible to come by.

yes TK, i was talking about my preference toward the rosy tint of the 219b.

I was under the impression 219 emitters increased in CCT and CRI at higher drive currents.

Here’s data from a couple of emitters installed in a Thrunite TC12 so not seriously overdriven

219B 4500K sw45k R9080
Mid: 4490K CRI97
High: 4466K CRI97
Turbo: 4595K CRI93

219C 4000K CRI90 R9050
Mid: 4142K CRI92
High: 4239K CRI90
Turbo: 4197K CRI89

Stock emitter XP-L
Mid: 4461K CRI73
High: 4469K CRI72
Turbo: 4572K CRI72

Here’s a 219C CRI80 triple driven a bit harder
100lm: 4648K CRI86
500lm: 4773K CRI83
2200lm: 4862K CRI84

Here’s a 219B R9050 in an Astrolux S41
Mid: 4660K CRI91
High: 4670K CRI91
Turbo: 4710K CRI93

Sadly, neither is easy to remove in the field.
Overall I find D4 somewhat too floody and I don’t want to diffuse anything. But for a camping light, a diffuser would be good.

Nice data! The trend is a bit lower CRI when the leds are overdriven, but that would be too easy of course so with the last measurement it is the other way around :party: