TK's Emisar D4 review

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fuzun
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zak.wilson wrote:
fuzun wrote:
I am holding myself to buy one because even though it offers good choices of tints (thank you for pointing them out) I need high cri (R9080). I hope we will see NVSL219BT-V1 option available to purchase. Do the producer of this light know that there is a demand for high cri version?

So… there happens to be a fairly popular 219B FET quad: the Astrolux S41. I have one, and I notice a distinct shift to a much cooler tint after a second or two on max with a Sony VTC6. I don’t see the shift with an LG HG2 or Samsung 30Q. Output was 2272 lumens at power on with the VTC6 and more like 2000 with other batteries.

The D4 has significantly lower resistance than the S41. That means more current, and the 219B won’t respond in a good way to that. Tint will get cooler, CRI will get worse and the emitters may be damaged. A 219B D4 without adding a resistor to the circuit doesn’t seem like a good idea to me. 219Cs do come in 90 CRI though, and they still have nice tint and CRI when driven crazy hard. Some do prefer the tint of the 219B (I’m one of them), but the 219C is getting tint deviation bins, so it’ll be possible to order more rosy versions.


Yeah that was one thing I did not know about 219b. As you and ToyKeeper have pointed out, it seems for high cri 219c 4500k 90CRI is the best option. But the bad thing is that it is not available. I do not know why they went with 82 cri 219c. Is it because of cost or availability of leds?

For the tint, I think the reason behind 219b’s beautiful rosy tint is its high R9 value. I do not think 219c can achieve this tint without that high R9 value.

zak.wilson
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219Bs in R9050 are usually a bit on the rosy side, and the R9080 in 4000K is reportedly not nearly as rosy as the 4500K. 219Cs in R9050 that I’ve seen so far aren’t rosy at all, however, Clemence reports that tint deviation binning is coming to the 219C and it will be possible to order bins that are more rosy or at least less green.

I have no insight in to why Hank chose the emitters he did. The 219C is widely available in 4000K R9050, which is used in production lights from Reylight, Kaidomain, Eagletac, Manker and others. It comes in other color temperatures and R9050 too, but the only one I’ve heard of in a production light is 5000K in the Astrolux S41. Clemence sells a number of color temperatures, so it’s not like they’re impossible to come by.

Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android

rizky_p
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yes TK, i was talking about my preference toward the rosy tint of the 219b.

ToyKeeper wrote:

You mean, you like the 219b more than the 219c? That’s fair — the 219b had more of a rosy tint. However, it also has much lower maximum output… particularly when limited to the current which produces the best tint. A quad 219b configured to optimize tint would probably make about 1600 lm at 6-8 A. Maxed out completely, it might make up to 2400 lm at 14 A. A quad 219c could theoretically make up to about 4800 lm at 24 A.

One of my nicest-looking lights is a triple 219b at just one amp per emitter. It makes only 800 lm, but it’s 800 very nice lumens.
It’d be nice to see a D4 with 219c at 4500k and 90+ CRI. That seems like more of a true neutral, halfway between warm white and cool white.

battery
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zak.wilson wrote:
The D4 has significantly lower resistance than the S41. That means more current, and the 219B won’t respond in a good way to that. Tint will get cooler, CRI will get worse and the emitters may be damaged. A 219B D4 without adding a resistor to the circuit doesn’t seem like a good idea to me. 219Cs do come in 90 CRI though, and they still have nice tint and CRI when driven crazy hard. Some do prefer the tint of the 219B (I’m one of them), but the 219C is getting tint deviation bins, so it’ll be possible to order more rosy versions.

I was under the impression 219 emitters increased in CCT and CRI at higher drive currents.

maukka
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battery wrote:
I was under the impression 219 emitters increased in CCT and CRI at higher drive currents.

Here’s data from a couple of emitters installed in a Thrunite TC12 so not seriously overdriven

219B 4500K sw45k R9080
Mid: 4490K CRI97
High: 4466K CRI97
Turbo: 4595K CRI93

219C 4000K CRI90 R9050
Mid: 4142K CRI92
High: 4239K CRI90
Turbo: 4197K CRI89

Stock emitter XP-L
Mid: 4461K CRI73
High: 4469K CRI72
Turbo: 4572K CRI72

Here’s a 219C CRI80 triple driven a bit harder
100lm: 4648K CRI86
500lm: 4773K CRI83
2200lm: 4862K CRI84

Here’s a 219B R9050 in an Astrolux S41
Mid: 4660K CRI91
High: 4670K CRI91
Turbo: 4710K CRI93

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ToyKeeper wrote:
Agro wrote:
Has anyone found a diffuser that would work with it?

You can use a different Carclo quad optic with diffusion built in. Or put DC-Fix on the lens. Both work.


Sadly, neither is easy to remove in the field.
Overall I find D4 somewhat too floody and I don’t want to diffuse anything. But for a camping light, a diffuser would be good.
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maukka wrote:
battery wrote:
I was under the impression 219 emitters increased in CCT and CRI at higher drive currents.

Here’s data from a couple of emitters installed in a Thrunite TC12 so not seriously overdriven

219B 4500K sw45k R9080
Mid: 4490K CRI97
High: 4466K CRI97
Turbo: 4595K CRI93

219C 4000K CRI90 R9050
Mid: 4142K CRI92
High: 4239K CRI90
Turbo: 4197K CRI89

Stock emitter XP-L
Mid: 4461K CRI73
High: 4469K CRI72
Turbo: 4572K CRI72

Here’s a 219C CRI80 triple driven a bit harder
100lm: 4648K CRI86
500lm: 4773K CRI83
2200lm: 4862K CRI84

Here’s a 219B R9050 in an Astrolux S41
Mid: 4660K CRI91
High: 4670K CRI91
Turbo: 4710K CRI93


Nice data! The trend is a bit lower CRI when the leds are overdriven, but that would be too easy of course so with the last measurement it is the other way around Party
maukka
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After getting to know the new sphere a little better (adjusting baffle and auxiliary light, trying different input port diffusers etc) my numbers for the D4 got about 8% higher.

Max output is as follows:
VTC6: 3345 lm (480 lm at 30 sec)
18650GA: 2980 lm (895 lm at 30 sec)
Aspire 18350: 2880 lm (1570 lm at 30 sec)
Efest 18350: 2460 lm
Enercig 18350: 2630 lm

Here’s the new graphs

leestrong
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Thanks maukka, excellent data, as always. 100% 7135 efficiency is surprisingly low, I thought it is above 100lm/W, maybe I have over estimated the efficiency of 7135.

Am I too greedy to wish for a 1+N+FET driver to be sold in separate / available in new versions, I’ll be happy with N >= 4.
DrJones H17F Driver from MT Electronics seems nice, not sure if it fits.

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leestrong wrote:
Thanks maukka, excellent data, as always. 100% 7135 efficiency is surprisingly low, I thought it is above 100lm/W.

I have been wondering about this, without giving too much thought. The most commonly known values for efficacy is probably what Cree or Nichia is stating on the spec sheet, meaning light output in lumens per Watt where the power consumption is that of the emitter itself.
Maybe the efficacy Maukka is using is not the power consumption of the led itself, but of the complete flashlight including the cell, where the power value is derived from the runtime? So then you will automatically get a lower efficacy.
Is this the case Maukka?

zak.wilson
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7135+219C is a pretty inefficient combination. The larger the difference between forward voltage and battery voltage, the more the 7135 just burns off the excess as heat, and the 219C has very low forward voltage. Combined with a buck driver, the 219C’s efficiency is much better.

Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android

maukka
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Yes. Depending on the output level/runtime and approximated current draw, I have capacity data in Wh for most of my batteries. Total Lumen-hours over the runtime divided by battery watt-hours gives the lumens/watt. So the calculation takes into account the possible effects of the battery, leds and driver heating up.

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^^^ Excellent, thanks!

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patmurris wrote:
A few comments about the ramping UI:

I like how smooth and fast it reacts and that the current level stays in memory for the next turn on. However if i set the light to some mid level i like and next use the shortcut to moon for instance (long press from off) and turn the light off, the next time it will also start on moon with a single click – the memorized mid level has been ‘erased’ by moon, even though i didn’t use ramping. Same thing if i fired a quick burst of max output (double click from off) and turned off without ramping. Next time it turns on at max level which may be unexpected and quite annoying.

In both case, the memorized level was forgotten and one of the shortcut has become redundant. I would have expected the memory to persist until some ramping occur.

Another suggestion i would make would be to have an option to limit ramping to a level that the light can at least sustain for a few minutes without stepping down or becoming ridiculously (and possibly dangerously) hot. It’s actually too easy to go overboard with this light. On most lights with a turbo mode of some sort, you have to do something special to trigger it – at least click through the other modes for instance.

I like these suggestions.

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In case anyone is wondering, Richard from Mountain has about 49 or so of these pocket nuclear reactors in stock now. I purchased the last three for my collection (5 so far) last night so if you are in the market for one of these, especially if you live in the US, mountain electronics.com is an excellent place to get them. They tend to sell out extremely fast, so don’t sleep on it if u are planning to buy.

Tixx
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Joey Adams wrote:
In case anyone is wondering, Richard from Mountain has about 49 or so of these pocket nuclear reactors in stock now. I purchased the last three for my collection (5 so far) last night so if you are in the market for one of these, especially if you live in the US, mountain electronics.com is an excellent place to get them. They tend to sell out extremely fast, so don’t sleep on it if u are planning to buy.

Thanks for the heads up. I have to try the Cree XP-G2 S4 3D ~5000K – Neutral White. The only neutral 5000k and below I have not tried yet and he had them in stock. 1 more left I think.

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I’m sure Mtn is sold out again.
He only had 2 left last night when I got my “green beauty”. Smile

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right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

Tixx
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travis wrote:
I’m sure Mtn is sold out again. He only had 2 left last night when I got my “green beauty”. Smile

Availability: 47

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Tixx wrote:

Thanks for the heads up. I have to try the Cree XP-G2 S4 3D ~5000K – Neutral White. The only neutral 5000k and below I have not tried yet and he had them in stock. 1 more left I think.

I picked up the last Green 3D last night…this forum is a bad influence…

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Fuzzylogic wrote:
Tixx wrote:

Thanks for the heads up. I have to try the Cree XP-G2 S4 3D ~5000K – Neutral White. The only neutral 5000k and below I have not tried yet and he had them in stock. 1 more left I think.

I picked up the last Green 3D last night…this forum is a bad influence…

Now you need to order a grey and black one. And a 4th one to strip the anodizing off for the polished bare aluminum look! LOL
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Firelight2 wrote:
Now you need to order a grey and black one. And a 4th one to strip the anodizing off for the polished bare aluminum look! LOL

Already have a grey nichia…now thinking about a black xp-l hi…unfortunately (fortunately?) anodizing’s already coming off on my grey one from the clip scratching it…so yeah, you’re right, I might have to strip it completely and order a 4th to replace the grey Big Smile . You guys are bad influence I tell ya Evil .

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He has 43 left as of right now. I’m not sure which emitters/tint/body colors/ are still available but there are 43 D4s as a total left at Richards site.

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Ordered my D4/3D from Mtn, at breakfast, shipped by lunch. Can’t beat for service. Thumbs Up

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I’m NOT ordering a second D4! NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT.

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saypat wrote:
I’m NOT ordering a second D4! NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT.

Fine, Skip the second, go right to the Third.

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Back almost a dozen pages, ven mentioned about how he was running through 18650 cells in no time and I thought I’d take a closer look into the ability of my D4 to work with smaller cells.

I have been spending time alternately using my new Desert Tan Convoy S2+ and my D4 but not using either seriously or for any real extended period of time. I had my D4 loaded with a purple Efest 700mAh cell and tried out the battery check. After very little use (mostly lowest mode to read by at night and a handful of times running it through the ramping and showing it off) the cell was already down to 3.8 volts. I had barely used it.

Even though it looked so cute with the smallest tube (and the purple Efest completing the hulk look) I’m back to the 18650 tube, Convoy clip and either a GA, VTC6 or 30Q. I’m hoping these will last at least four times as long, which may not be all that long in the real world…

Still love this little powerhouse.

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At about 15 amps, a 700mAh cell would only last 3 minutes. Probably less, really, since capacity is less at high amps. It could probably drop a 18350 cell to 3.8V in under a minute of turbo.

However, the same cell should last for 2 hours at the max 7135 level, or for about 3 days on moon. Closer to a full day at the ‘low’ level I find most useful.

So… runtime of anywhere from 2.5 minutes to ~3 days on a 700mAh cell, depending on how bright it’s running. With an Aspire cell, it’s more like 4 minutes to 6 days. With a 3000mAh 18650 cell, more like 9 minutes to 15 days.

This can be maximized by starting each session with a long press, and releasing as soon as it gets bright enough for the current situation — bright enough but no more than necessary. Then turn it off and on with a single click until you’re done. Turbo really is only for bursts, and will eat through batteries like there’s no tomorrow. Every second spent in turbo uses about as much power as about 30-40 minutes on moon. If you show off turbo three times for three seconds each, that burns four to six hours of moonlight.

Agro
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TK, your first post of this review mentions over 4,300 lm with XP-L HI.
But it doesn’t tell which tint do you use. Cooler is V3 flux, warmer is V2. Could you clarify?

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Hello

I need your help. I have next problem. When I turn on the light and put it at 30, 50,75…% it always happen next: after 5 secondes light flashes 3 times and lumens are reduced, this is repeating every 5 secondes and lumens are again reduced. This cycle is repeating few times till FL reach 1 lumen or very small amount.

Do you maybe know what is wrong? Do I have defect FL?

Thank you

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What batteries are you using and are they fully charged?

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