The number of flashes indicates battery charge level I believe.
4 flashes = highest charge level (close to or full battery)
3 ”
2 ”
1 flash = lowest charge level (low battery)
I am not sure which actual battery voltage values the number of blinks correspond to but I hope this helps in some way :+1:
I was thinking it will give voltage information as in Nitecore for example. Ok.
BTW i rewrite the programming guide to add more structure to it (IMHO), so you can check it 
Image link’s broken 
Ugh… once again you guys made me buy another flashlight…
I was walking around with my old S2+ (Blue XM-L2 T6-3B 7135*4) last night and admired how comfortable it felt in my hand. It is such a great EDC light. So now it’s going to have a younger brother - Desert Tan XPL HI U6-3A 7135x8. Can’t wait to get it.
In the third row: shouldn’t the “Enter into the first mode” box read “(if the mode memory is off)”?
For clarity, I would also change the “Enter into next mode” box to read “Enter into saved mode” or similar. The current text almost makes it sound as if the light has Next Mode Memory, which is a different system (and one just about everyone seems to hate).
Can you believe that only today, due to your diagram, I realized that there was a “long tap” option to get back to the lowest mode? Whatta….?! :person_facepalming: :person_facepalming: :person_facepalming:
I don’t believe me! How could I not know that…?
Well, thank you for your effort and for the help on this! :+1:
It’s not really a long tap. You just cut the power for a while and the light shuts off. Then it restarts on the lowest mode just like if you would have fully clicked twice with a pause in between.
Sorry if this was covered earlier, but why is the mode spacing what it is, meaning a huge jump from 35% straight to 100%?
If you have the 8x7135 setup, and the light gets super toasty on 100, then wouldnt it make sense to have a mode that is closer to maybe 60-70 to make the heat more manageable while still giving fairly decent output?
I know there is the 50% MAX mode, but then you cant go higher than this without reprogramming.
Because there’s little visible difference between 35% and 100%. Human perception isn’t a linear curve, if anything it tapers off at the higher numbers like a logarithm.
Thanks for the explanation maukka!! I then realized that that was just a slight longer tap than the quick tap for changing modes!
It works fine, I just didn’t know it could do that :person_facepalming:
Thank you! :+1:
I also questioned this before buying but after using my S2+ for a while I realized that the spacing is very well done and thought out.
I think the real solution would be to put thermal regulation in the light at 100%. But, that might make it too expensive to be a budget light.
A well working thermal regulation, like in the D4,requires an only slightly more expensive MCU (the Attiny13A in the Convoy has no thermal sensor built in, the Attiny25 has one), and a willing Toykeeper to fine-tune the feedback software. So in production costs it is cheap but in effort in a way it is expensive because you need to 1) convince Simon to use a new component on his drivers, and 2) hire/convince an experienced expert (AKA TK) to get the algorithm done. Btw, I’m sure that the same temperature algorithm of the D4 works fine for an S2+ too.
Just standart Convoy driver + thermoresistor + firmware from fonarevka.ru and you will get the most advanced budget linear driver in the world 
Thermocontrol, full customization, no PWM (!) in all medium and high modes (350 mA and higher).
Hi Wildcat, can you explain a little more?
This looks interesting. Just add a thermoresistor to a standard x*AMC7135 driver and use a specialized firmware.
I guess we need a well translated description of that Fonarevka topic. Google translating Russian to English often is a pain (тактовую кнопку = clock button??) and my Russian language skills are faded to almost zero.
Anybody willing to help translate and get in touch with the thread starter?
I have asked Simon about using attiny25, 380mAm amc7135 chips, OTC and bleeder resistor. He seemed interested in why would that be a more desirable driver. Maybe if enough people ask for it, he may order such changes from his supplier
FWIW, I added thermal regulation to Crescendo recently, and it runs pretty well on a tiny25-based driver (tested in a S2+ w/ triple XP-G2 and FET+1). Simon is welcome to use it if he wants, but I think he’ll probably stick with Biscotti for now. The code may be ready, but changing the driver hardware is a difficult and expensive task for him. Maybe someday he can switch to a 7+1 driver with tiny25, or even a FET+1.
Not everyone likes ramping, but most seem to… and it eliminates all the fussing about with mode groups, mode order, etc. However, it may be a bit less muggle-friendly since it’s not what traditional flashlights do. In particular, booting directly into ramp mode may be a bit confusing at first since it requires another tap to stop it at the desired level. So that may need some adjustments… Maybe enable a “noob mode” by default, where ramping automatically exits to steady mode whenever it hits the 1x7135 level? That might make it more friendly for someone who knows nothing at all about it.
