Ugh… once again you guys made me buy another flashlight…
I was walking around with my old S2+ (Blue XM-L2 T6-3B 7135*4) last night and admired how comfortable it felt in my hand. It is such a great EDC light. So now it’s going to have a younger brother - Desert Tan XPL HI U6-3A 7135x8. Can’t wait to get it.
In the third row: shouldn’t the “Enter into the first mode” box read “(if the mode memory is off)”?
For clarity, I would also change the “Enter into next mode” box to read “Enter into saved mode” or similar. The current text almost makes it sound as if the light has Next Mode Memory, which is a different system (and one just about everyone seems to hate).
Can you believe that only today, due to your diagram, I realized that there was a “long tap” option to get back to the lowest mode? Whatta….?! :person_facepalming: :person_facepalming: :person_facepalming:
I don’t believe me! How could I not know that…?
Well, thank you for your effort and for the help on this! :+1:
It’s not really a long tap. You just cut the power for a while and the light shuts off. Then it restarts on the lowest mode just like if you would have fully clicked twice with a pause in between.
Sorry if this was covered earlier, but why is the mode spacing what it is, meaning a huge jump from 35% straight to 100%?
If you have the 8x7135 setup, and the light gets super toasty on 100, then wouldnt it make sense to have a mode that is closer to maybe 60-70 to make the heat more manageable while still giving fairly decent output?
I know there is the 50% MAX mode, but then you cant go higher than this without reprogramming.
Because there’s little visible difference between 35% and 100%. Human perception isn’t a linear curve, if anything it tapers off at the higher numbers like a logarithm.
Thanks for the explanation maukka!! I then realized that that was just a slight longer tap than the quick tap for changing modes!
It works fine, I just didn’t know it could do that :person_facepalming:
Thank you! :+1:
I also questioned this before buying but after using my S2+ for a while I realized that the spacing is very well done and thought out.
I think the real solution would be to put thermal regulation in the light at 100%. But, that might make it too expensive to be a budget light.
A well working thermal regulation, like in the D4,requires an only slightly more expensive MCU (the Attiny13A in the Convoy has no thermal sensor built in, the Attiny25 has one), and a willing Toykeeper to fine-tune the feedback software. So in production costs it is cheap but in effort in a way it is expensive because you need to 1) convince Simon to use a new component on his drivers, and 2) hire/convince an experienced expert (AKA TK) to get the algorithm done. Btw, I’m sure that the same temperature algorithm of the D4 works fine for an S2+ too.
Just standart Convoy driver + thermoresistor + firmware from fonarevka.ru and you will get the most advanced budget linear driver in the world 
Thermocontrol, full customization, no PWM (!) in all medium and high modes (350 mA and higher).
Hi Wildcat, can you explain a little more?
This looks interesting. Just add a thermoresistor to a standard x*AMC7135 driver and use a specialized firmware.
I guess we need a well translated description of that Fonarevka topic. Google translating Russian to English often is a pain (тактовую кнопку = clock button??) and my Russian language skills are faded to almost zero.
Anybody willing to help translate and get in touch with the thread starter?
I have asked Simon about using attiny25, 380mAm amc7135 chips, OTC and bleeder resistor. He seemed interested in why would that be a more desirable driver. Maybe if enough people ask for it, he may order such changes from his supplier
FWIW, I added thermal regulation to Crescendo recently, and it runs pretty well on a tiny25-based driver (tested in a S2+ w/ triple XP-G2 and FET+1). Simon is welcome to use it if he wants, but I think he’ll probably stick with Biscotti for now. The code may be ready, but changing the driver hardware is a difficult and expensive task for him. Maybe someday he can switch to a 7+1 driver with tiny25, or even a FET+1.
Not everyone likes ramping, but most seem to… and it eliminates all the fussing about with mode groups, mode order, etc. However, it may be a bit less muggle-friendly since it’s not what traditional flashlights do. In particular, booting directly into ramp mode may be a bit confusing at first since it requires another tap to stop it at the desired level. So that may need some adjustments… Maybe enable a “noob mode” by default, where ramping automatically exits to steady mode whenever it hits the 1x7135 level? That might make it more friendly for someone who knows nothing at all about it.
Careful about those 380mA chips. They tend to behave badly at the far low end, so it could eliminate moon mode.
OTC and tiny25 would allow Bistro to run, and allow short/med/long button presses, but OTC isn’t required for Crescendo.
A bleeder resistor is a must-have with a lighted tailcap, but it also reduces runtime for the moon and low modes.
What I’d like to see Convoy do is:
The 380mA chips are totally optional though; people won’t generally notice a difference between 2.8A and 3.0A, and having two types of 7135 chips complicates production.
To get really fancy, Simon could even try to use a “smart” lighted tailcap board instead of a plastic washer. I can make those change color based on cell voltage. But that again complicates things quite a bit and I’m not sure it would fit in the S2+ so I doubt it’ll happen.
My ideal driver is about what you described, but your technical details are more refined 
Crescendo is not a firmware for me, but I grew favouritism for bistro simple modes + hidden blinkies (bat check is cool)
I don’t care for elaborate illuminated tail caps, but I like the idea of them, and being easy to find the flashlight in the dark
As for the S2+ itself, I finally took my triple, my single and my c8 for a spin at a real world use, and boy do I love the smooth reflector, it’s the beam for camping. The c8 is cool but in this scenario the hotspot is too narrow. Also, the S2+ triple is weird in the outdoors, the beam is so evenly spread it’s “unnatural”. The tints, on the other hand, are all great, nichias are now officially my favourites (4000k on the triple, 5000k on the single and c8).
I was thinking about doing the same with my Convoy clip when it eventually arrives in the mail. Does it still fits nicely on the flashlight, or does the heat-shrink tubing make the clip too wide to fit in the groove?
Hum, it fits well in the groove, yes! :+1:
Be sure that you use a tube size that is not too large or leaving much space inside the tube. Also, careful with the amount of heat and watch the tips of the clip.
After putting the tube and heat-shrinked it, I had to add a bit more of tube in each tip, because on the first placement it slightly ruptured in the inner part and the metal was at sight and eventually scratching the host.
So far I’ve done it for my S2+ tan and another light I modded, but I’ll probably do it for the other S2+ because the clip gets more “grippy” in the body of the light, it does not slide so easily!
