That’s the thing about recovery. If you feel okay, like you could do more, that means you’re doing something right and should keep doing it — instead of pushing yourself.
It’s not unlike how the thermal regulation algorithm works. If you go too far, you have to cut back quite a bit until you start feeling better. Then move forward slowly, in baby steps. If you go too far again, it’ll likely involve big setbacks again, so try not to do that.
Recovery goes a lot faster if you don’t keep hurting yourself.
This was mostly answered already, but the default is 45 C, the maximum is 70 C, and the minimum is 0 C.
I’d have to check again, but I think the only ways to reset it to default are:
Manually calibrate it to 45 C (not easy to do).
Manually calibrate it to something colder than freezing. IIRC, it detects this as “unconfigured” and resets to default.
The lowest calibration it’ll accept is 0 C. Anything below that wraps around to 255 C and starts counting down, which reads out as 0 C in temperature check mode or, if saved during calibration, triggers a reset to default. But the default doesn’t really matter since it’s only a rough approximation.
Based on ToyKeeper’s fantastic review, I received a Nichia 219 version today from Intn’Outdoor. Of course I just now ordered Vinh’s XPG2 version for its boosted lux. Both versions will be a lot of fun!
help please. When I do the thermal configuration, my light blinks 7 times. Is that 70 Celsius? If so , that is 158 Farenheight. What does that mean exactly please? Does that mean my light won’t step down until it becomes very, very , hot? If so, how do I get it back to the other end of the spectrum? Thanks anyone in the know.
You could use the timer function saypat, make sure light is cold to start and after the 10+ presses and hold, wait for it to blink out, then the short flicker. Keep hold whilst it sets off in turbo, as it gets warmer release the switch to set it. This will now be set more hand friendly…………….Of course double clicking when quite warm will still get it toasty!!! So i try and set mine from cold and find a happy medium regarding temp.
Yes, that’s probably 70. The zero digit should be a very short blink.
To set the thermal limit, turn the light off. Then click ten or more times and, without missing a beat, press and hold the button. Keep holding until the light feels hot, then let go.
While you’re holding it, it should blink out a number, then “buzz” for a few seconds, then go to turbo. Then it should stay at turbo until you let go. After you release the button, it should blink out a new number representing the new temperature ceiling value.
You have better replies above on changing the set point than I can provide so I won’t add to that confusion. I will say that you need to remember that the microcontroller is measuring the temperature of the driver and surrounding area inside the head, where the heat is highest, so the body of the light is not going to reach that temp. It will still get too hot to hold if you don’t pay attention, but don’t confuse the set point with the surface temperature.
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I was running my light on turbo this morning and noticed that instead of gradually stepping down as normal, it blinked three times then stepped down quite a bit. I check battery V and it was reading 3.3 on an 18650GA.
Does anyone know what that means? It wasn’t running very hot at the time of blinking. I am guessing that it’s not able to get the juice it needs but would like someone to confirm.
The GA is a good high capacity cell but can’t deliver maximum current’s like some others. It probably got low enough that it sagged below that 3.3V when you hit Turbo… by the time you got it out and checked it , all appeared well.
I’ve had flashlights that pull over 20A from a single cell before this one, I’ve run down a cell intentionally and then checked it at several points after the fact…. it’s amazing how much they bounce back when given a bit of rest! Hit em with load again though, and the fall is even faster than before, a lot faster! But if you’re trying to completely discharge a cell to hit LVP, it’s pretty tough to get the light to shut down. Takes much longer than I would have thought.
I have one more interpretation of my D4 and I’ll be done, but I have to wait for some bits and pieces to get here… :smiling_imp:
Edit: I should add, when you have tons of mod stuff like I do, especially after buying all Justin’s kit last year, it’s easy to not put a price on the things you already have and not feel bad about a modded light. But when you do something different and have to purchase those bits and pieces, a $40 light gets expensive very rapidly! All the work I’ve already done set aside, the final version will be an $80+ light. (Shhhhh! Not showing the paperwork to the Boss Lady…. )
It means the voltage went below 3.0 V, so it triggered low-voltage protection.
High-capacity cells like the GA tend to have more voltage sag under high load, so they won’t last long on turbo before LVP kicks in. IIRC it’s better at that than a NCR18650A or NCR18650B, but not as good as a 30Q or VTC5/6.
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