My SolarForce L2 clip has been working pretty well, but I should probably find something a little better than a paperclip to use as the spacer. It seems like the paperclip has reduced maximum output a bit.
The clip itself could stand to be a bit shorter, since it routes fabric directly into the edge of the clip groove. It’s not bad though, and I appreciate the wide opening on both sides of the contact point. It’s also nice that I can add/remove the clip without scratching anything.
Yeah, sorry, there is no strobe or bike mode on the D4.
I enjoy some blinkies at times, especially party strobes, but those weren’t part of the D4 design. If you ever get the chance though, it’s fun to play with water under a motion-freezing party strobe.
I used a piece of solid copper wire. I had flatten it with a hammer to allow the tailcap to tighten down enough to keep the clip from rotating around.
Its not ideal. I’d prefer a clip attached with screws, but this solarforce clip is alot more secure than a snap on clip.
Question for Hank Wang — can you sell extra tailcaps?
I want to try some drilling and fiddling to attach a belt clip and lanyard/split ring attachment point.
Finding a copper ring/washer the right size to fit in the tailcap to use the Solarforce belt clips would also be good.
The main problem I have with this flashlight is it’s easy to drop.
And the very last thing I’d want to happen is to drop it while it’s heating up and have it land in an unreachable place and start a fire.
No, Hank doesn’t do inflated retail prices in order to have periodic sales. The price is set at fair value instead. However, compared to the competition, the D4 is 59% off.
That would have been my preferred method but there just isn’t enough material so I cut a slot in it to fit over the threads, you can see it in the cap picture and also filed down the placement nibs.
Zebralights are still unmatched for efficiency and stability (especially at moon levels), and have a more refined physical build with features like a clip and a recessed switch and a more sculpted shell. They also offer a fancier UI with more fiddly bits, which some people really love.
The D4 beats Zebralights in matters of output, flexibility, simplicity, mod-friendliness, price, and available colors. On most counts, by a wide margin.
For daily use, my modded D4 (added clip and new firmware) goes pretty much everywhere with me. My Zebralights mostly only get used when I need a headlamp or when I want to calibrate a light box. Because my values place a heavy emphasis on mod-friendliness; it’s incredibly hard to beat a product modified to suit one’s own preferences.
(as a side note, if anyone wants the ZL UI on a D4, that can be arranged…)
I feel dumb asking this but I can’t get my new D4 to even turn on. I’m using the recommended INR 30Q batteries… am I putting them in wrong? I’ve tried both directions, tried tightening the tube until it hurt…what am I doing wrong??
One end of the battery should have a wider, flatter connector. That end goes toward the tailcap. The other end should have a narrower connector. That end goes toward the lens.
It may also help to check the voltage of the battery, if you have a way to do that. It should be between 3.0V and 4.2V.
When power is connected (tube and tailcap are both tight with a battery installed), it should blink twice. If it does that, the electrical connection is working. If not, something is either broken, empty, or not connected.
If it blinks at power-on but doesn’t otherwise respond, it could have a broken button or switch wire.
I think it’s the batteries. Supposed ‘quality’ 30Qs from China but they only show 2.1v each on my Liitokala 500 after ‘Normal test’ and ‘Fast test’. Bummer.