Got my white Noctigon M43 yesterday. The first thing I had to do was to clean in. They’re using black grease in the threads for the battery tube and it gets all over the flashlight.
As I screw it apart it also felt like sand in the threads. So cleaned up, new grease and wiped some contact spray on the plus pole contact plate. Now it feels very smooth.
I did a short turbo mode test this evening and it’s a wicked light for sure. Almost as bright as my car’s two HID aux headlights.
When the light is turned on and the button backlight slowly pulses red and blue, what exactly does that mean?
I didn’t noticed much difference in light output although the cooling fins became quite warm when the indicator started to pulsate.
When turned off it went back to constant blue indication (I have the beacon blue turned off).
The red glowing button means the light is stepping down due to heat.
Thanks! Ok I think it works very well then. More then happy with my new “compact searchlight”. :laughing:
A tip if you don’t want to undauntedly melt your holster - screw off the battery tube just so the o-ring starts to peak through under the head
and the power cells loose their contact. Sometimes it feels like a hassel to click 6 times to lock the button.
I use UI1, which means it’s also very unlikely that the light will come on in turbo accidentally.
Me too. And turn the button in the holster where there is a lot of free space.
OUT OF STOCKS! Does this means it is no longer in production?
So is the D4 on int outdoor(well sold out )……………maybe temporary till the D1 orders settle.
It’s a popular item, not easy to keep the supply high enough to meet demand. And I think Hank is busy with the D1 and other projects, so his D4 time is limited.
As far as I know the M43 is still "in production", but I think that they have pretty much paused M43 production until they get caught up on D1 and D4 production.
I have had my M43 since January of this year and I LOVE it, i have come to find that UI3 is the best for me…….so heres my question.
Is there a way to put Narsil M on this light and maybe still have some cool functions with the switch leds?
UI3 is Narsil, but with three levels. If you “set” all three levels to low, then however you turn it on it will be in low, and available to ramp with a click click and hold. The Turbo is a available with a press and hold from any level, including off.
The strobe and battcheck and other fun stuff are not as easy as Narsil, but still available.
I love UI3, it is my favorite interface for all of my lights.
There is no other firmware that will work correctly with this light. You would have to start from the ground up completely.
I have mine set to low with one click, then with the double click it goes brighter, then again, then I can hold for turbo. nothing wrong with this UI, its just that narsil is so simple haha.
Thanks for the info, Ill just have to stick with my 8 page instruction UI on this one haha.
Here’s a condensed version 
Uh, that looks complicated.
It looks complicated, but it’s one of those things that is very wordy to explain but simple in execution.
I use UI 3 and love it. I have my 3 levels set like BeardedRaleigh just mentioned. Here’s my explanation from a few posts ago:
While the light is on, double-clicking will continuously cycle through the three brightness settings. A ‘fast then long click’ moves backward while the light is ON.
Once you get comfortable with the operation, you can also use shortcuts to the three modes from OFF.
At any time while the light is on, holding the switch activates Turbo until you let go and it returns to the mode you were in. This is one of my favorite features.
Out of shear curiosity: Has anyone (maybe ToyKeeper) identified the used chips on the driver or has at least high-res photos of the driver where the markings are readable?
I found this post on TLF where I can see the components or a photo on some russian site but neither A335 for the D1 component or VT1 are readable well enough or can be found somewhere.
From the general circuit it looks like VT1 is the mosfet for the boost converter, D1 is the uC since it has pads for the switch and LEDS and D2 is some kind of OPV?
I’m just curious how they implemented everything (discrete buck IC + control µC, µC does buck in SW, …)
If you are not able to make boost driver design “from zero”, dont try to rechip meteor driver. You will get tons of issuies from hardware that you wont fix.
