[GB ended,discussion only] CRI > 80+ NICHIA 2000K-6500K [E21A/219B/219C/319A/144A/757GT-F1(Optisolis)]

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clemence
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No wonder you guys praised 219B sw45k R9080 so much. Very balanced spectrum. Thanks Aede

AnhTran
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Hi AEDe, where can i buy that Skilhunt H03 with 219b-v1 r9080? thanks

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AnhTran,the only way is to buy stock H03 and than change LED.

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I just received a ecarmy PT-16 modded to 3000k 219c sm303.. Loving it!

Thanks for the LEDs Clemence!

Some info on differences in lumens between XP-G2, sw40 and sm303 in a PT-16

Using the same Keepower IMR 18350 battery on turbo
1300 lumens XP-G2 6000k 70CRI
1000 lumens Sw40 4000k 90CRI
1000 lumens Sm303 3000k 90CRI

I was surprised that the 3000k 219c was not less bright than the 4000k 219b.. both are 23% less bright than XP-G2, they also both have 29% more CRI than the Cool White

up to 1000 lumens of Warm High Cri Goodness, whats not to like? (middle):

I won the tint lottery on the previous sm305 LED.. happy dance!

sm303 and sw40 PT lights compared to 3000k Incan

whats a PT?


clemence
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It’s good that lots of people satisfied with the recent batch. Very nice FL you got there Jon. Are they expensive? The styling reminds me of Oveready.

EDIT: It’s been some years in BLF and I’m still a noob for popular flashlight makers. I saw Mecarmy flashlight for the first time in my life after reading Jon’s post Grad

- Clemence

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clemence wrote:
Are they expensive?

not expensive Smile

use code blacknovember to get it for less than $45 .. it has built in USB charging and includes a battery..

One of the big benefits of the PT-16, is that the output is extremely flat regulated
I also like the simple, intuitive UI and 4 useful modes
note they are LiIon only, and do not have built in low voltage cutoff.. avoid overdischarge

here is a review if you want to learn more

The PT’s are a family of lights with different size tubes, but the same tripple XPG2 head, begging to get modded Smile

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Ah … thank you Jon

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following pic is an sm305 in a Maratac, the middle nichia is not one of the pink ones, it tends towards yellow. The photo is very close to accurate for what I see with my eyes.. the light on the far right is a stock Fenix E01 and yes it is very blue in real life too

and next below: sm303 on the left in a triple, the middle nichia triple IS pink, actually more than shown in the photo
on the far right is a stock Thrunite TiXmas AAA, which does have a green tint though the photo exaggerated it a bit

my impression of the sm303 is very positive
it is a very close match to the color of the incandescent light on my kitchen ceiling, and that is what I wanted.
the sm303 feels like a warm sunset glow, with just a touch of extra yellow tint that is characteristic of the 219c in general terms

the sm305 I posted is cherry picked as being the least yellow among just two.. so there IS some pinkness to be found, even in 219c.. or at least, some with less yellow tint than other samples.. LEDs Do vary, and comparing them Can become a bad habit. When used alone any of the 3000k 219c work great!

I also much prefer the 3000k n219c over my limited experience with XPL, which is way too yellow, and XPG, which is I really enjoy, but they are lower CRI (about 83), than the nichias whose CRI is over 90 (in this photo you can see that relative to the XPL the sm305 from Clemences last run, is relatively pink, something I really like)

imo Clemence has some of the Most Outstanding LEDs Ive had the pleasure of looking at

Im grateful to everyone here that has made it possible for me to entertain myself with LEDs of multiple colors Smile
There are at least 3 different unsung heroes that have helped me mod the pictured lights, in every case I remain ever grateful

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Nice comparisons Jon. Those Nichias wouldn't be there without BLF/CPF/TLF Wink . You guys are the pickiest tint snobs Nichia ever met! Ever since the first group buy, I've been enjoying tint-shots more than I imagined. Perhaps more or less the same as building flashlights to others.

Spent the weekend setting up some pictures for the website front page but ended up with complete tint-shots of the entire collection from my Nichia museum. Right now I'm still waiting for the morning light for the final shot..... !

 

Couldn't capture the gold/pink sunset/sunrise glow. My house located in a valley behind a hill, so even though it's only 3km from the beach, only minimal sunset/sunrise glow reached it. As you can see below, not much of a difference between hours. I find the morning sunrise the best.

View LARGER

 

View LARGER

 

BONUS TRACK:

 

Ryley
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Jerommel wrote:

I really hope to see the 319A available in high CRI soon.
I have a bunch of lights in which a 219 would run a little too hot to my liking.

+1

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Wow very nice picture Clemence! Excellent color pick to show Nichia’s tint.

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Ryley wrote:
Wow very nice picture Clemence! Excellent color pick to show Nichia’s tint.

Begadang dianya….. Wink

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clemence wrote:

Begadang dianya….. Wink

Biasa baru buka2 jam segituan, sambil mikir ini senter mau diapain lagi Big Smile

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stormrider88 wrote:
Is there any NVSW219CT SM503 [5000K 3 steps MacAdams] left? Somewhere around? Is there hope?.. Crying

There are still 140 pcs left at the store

- Clemence

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Very nice tint shots which make me think that I should have ordered more E21A sw503, still waiting for it to arrived.

Your new avatar looks promising…is E21A MCPCB you are working on going to be available soon ?
Any chance for triple and/or quad MCPCB ?

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Thanks Jon and Clemence.

The eye of a Photographer is evident in the masterful presentation by Clemence.
His humancentric ‘swatch book’ of the luminous jewels he offers should be purchased by Nichia for advertising purposes.
Offered along with jon_slider’s well conceived beam shots/profiles for comparisons, this thread continues to be a Mother Load of soothing relief for those of us with the same terminal affliction.

mattlward
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I would like to build an array of the E21’s as a light source for near macro and short range photograpy. Is anyone aware of a board that will allow them to be mounted and powered in very close proximity to each other?

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

1C3
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I put 3 219b sw40 9080 in a x6 triple, made a post about it here.
In short these are beautiful emitters perfect for outdoors use, it takes a few seconds for my eyes to adjust to the warmth but after that things look crisp, vivid and accurate.

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mattlward wrote:
I would like to build an array of the E21’s as a light source for near macro and short range photograpy. Is anyone aware of a board that will allow them to be mounted and powered in very close proximity to each other?

Because they’re a real PITA to solder on a board, i haven’t tested the tint shift of these little buddies.
I bought 4 pcs and put one in a CR123A light with a 40° TIR, which is in France at the moment (because i gave it to my mother and she’s there now).
I don’t know if you plan on using optics or not, but a TIR would eliminate the tint shift.
But i have one of those copper DTP quad 3535 boards like this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12W-Ultra-Violet-UV-365nm-380nm-395nm-42...
(i bought one with cyan 490nm LEDs)
The 3 Volt version can take 16x E21 Big Smile Big Smile making it a 6 Volts set up.
That would be 32 Watts when you run each at 2 Watts or 48 Watts at 3 Watts each.
But because they’re DTP you have 3 Volts on the board, so you’ll have to electrically insulate it.
Maybe better to use an non-DTP XP board and put 4 of them on it.
Or you could get a Djozz board and put a row of them on it.

2Q19

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Jerommel wrote:

But i have one of those copper DTP quad 3535 boards like this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12W-Ultra-Violet-UV-365nm-380nm-395nm-42...
(i bought one with cyan 490nm LEDs)
The 3 Volt version can take 16x E21 Big Smile Big Smile making it a 6 Volts set up.
That would be 32 Watts when you run each at 2 Watts or 48 Watts at 3 Watts each.
But because they’re DTP you have 3 Volts on the board, so you’ll have to electrically insulate it.
Maybe better to use an non-DTP XP board and put 4 of them on it.
Or you could get a Djozz board and put a row of them on it.

That sounds great. I have found a 3V version: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3V-6V-12V-4-Chip-Epileds-3535-4Chips-4LE...LED-Emitter-Full/32782012774.html
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That looks interesting. I am not planning to run them that hard, would use a larger number to gain lumens. I think I could find a way to isolate them, or to isolate the heat sink and power thru the heat sink and the star. I would not use optics, it would be a flood light for a light box.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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Tally-ho wrote:
Very nice tint shots which make me think that I should have ordered more E21A sw503, still waiting for it to arrived.

Your new avatar looks promising…is E21A MCPCB you are working on going to be available soon ?
Any chance for triple and/or quad MCPCB ?


OK, it’s time to spill the bean I guess. Yes, it’s undergoing the prototyping now. Only single and quad for now, the cost is killing me. I’m on a fast(er) lane now.

Tjohn wrote:
Thanks Jon and Clemence.

The eye of a Photographer is evident in the masterful presentation by Clemence.
His humancentric ‘swatch book’ of the luminous jewels he offers should be purchased by Nichia for advertising purposes.
Offered along with jon_slider’s well conceived beam shots/profiles for comparisons, this thread continues to be a Mother Load of soothing relief for those of us with the same terminal affliction.


Thanks for the kind words John Smile . Yes I sent the tint-shot already to my Nichia representative for his marketing purposes. I have an an interesting stuff for you later.

mattlward wrote:
I would like to build an array of the E21’s as a light source for near macro and short range photograpy. Is anyone aware of a board that will allow them to be mounted and powered in very close proximity to each other?

I planned 16 x E21A but cancelled it. Only single and quad boards for E21A. Will explain it my “New VirEnce Board” thread.
FYI, for low power up to 4A (4p E21A), Kerui’s DTP 20mm XP board still suffice. That’s what I use in my tint shot

- Clemence

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clemence wrote:
Will explain it my “New VirEnce Board” thread.
This one.
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Thank you TBone for pointing that out, didn’t pay attention to it before.

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Hey Clemence,
Those R9080 LEDs are horrible.
They make the R9050 LEDs all look like Cree.

2Q19

clemence
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Jerommel wrote:
Hey Clemence, Those R9080 LEDs are horrible. They make the R9050 LEDs all look like Cree.

I remember someone here in BLF said that 219B sw45k makes everything looks ugly, even the the sun! LOL
I’ll try to stock 6570e R9080 next time and see how it compared to mid day sun. Never tried anything as cool with such a high R9 number.

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stormrider88 wrote:
Hi Clemence, is there a minimum quantity to order? I plan to drop one of those 219C 5000K into a 18650 headlight. like the Acebeam h20… … I guess the bezel is unscrew-able (?) I was tempted to order a H600fd (5k 83CRI) but the higher CRI of the Nichia is really attracting…

Zebralight is one of the best headlamp as is, but very hard to modify (potted driver, press fitted bezel and button). I don’t know about Acebeam, but by the looks it should be easier to mod.
No MOQ, just visit the store. There’s a link in my signature

- Clemence

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stormrider88 wrote:
What is the temperature/hue of the 4070e, compare to the 403?

both are 4000k, if thats what you are asking
tint wise, look at this page, it has pictures of the Tint Bins
https://www.virence.com/blank-rwrlr/nichia-nvsl219ct-nvsw219ct

the image on that page that shows the two LED Tint Bins you are asking about is also posted here (I used search thread “4070e”)
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1171760#comment-1171760

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stormrider88 wrote:
What is the temperature/hue of the 4070e, compare to the 403?
Pick a 4070e in clemence’s shop and see the diagram for it. The 403 bin is a small circle around the blackbody curve at 4000 K. 4070e is the lower right 60° slice of a much larger circle there. So if you do not like green (or yellow/orange) in the tint the 4070e bin keeps you on the red (not blue) side of the blackbody curve.

The Cree equivalent may be 5D vs 5B.

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Thanks for the photos Clemence.. I did a little cut and paste so top of each photo pair is the control image:


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